Here I "tinker" with things, mainly electronics and computers. You will see repairs, reviews and anything that arrives on my bench! Happy watching and thanks for visiting!!
Nice job. But I would not delid as a preventative measure. If after cleaning and new thermal paste the temps/fan speed are too high (CFW or HEN software to check them), then I would consider delidding. Also, you can "Re-merry" a new BD using CFW tools.
10 months later, I wonder if the problem(s) have been solved? Wonderful video, thank you for all the time you put into creating this and demonstrating the problems you've found. I wonder if the same problem exists in the older firmwares or if you tried further back than 1.33?
My LCD didn't support anything older, they must have changed the controller. It would work but with a white background and mostly unreadable. But it would still happen. I doubt this can be resolved, maybe mitigated. Thanks for your kind words!
@@tony359 Oh I see. Thank you for the update. I guess we'll have to just wait and see if they come out with any more updates for the unit then. Cheers!~
I think Onkyo products are seen by many as poorly designed with high premature failure rates. They have destroyed their reputation to the extent that you don't really even see their products on sale any longer. It's a shame, because they use the same quality components as the other leading brands, and perform similarly, too.
Not all replacement flyback transformers are the same. I have replaced them under warranty. The yellow glue over the years will become conductive. Many poorly designed displays over the years.
My Onkyo NR-6050 gets cranked all the time and while it gets warm the internal fan and vents keep it from over heating. My 1982 Onkyo which I sold a few years ago also got warm but it passive vents kept from overheating.
I have a Liquid Sapphire 55 that uses the same exact power pcb that died and I'm doing a component replacement on. I'd really like to find a schematic. There's a couple mosfets/voltage regulators that are no longer manufactured.
The Scarlett Solo schematics are available online. The supply section has similarities - it might help a bit? The regulator I replaced is also discontinued but available on Aliexpress.Good luck :)
@@tony359 Thanks for responding so quickly, seeing as how the power supplies are almost exact, after scouring the interwebs for weeks, I found a forum where they were having the same model as yours and the culprit is Q109 (I think, I don't have mine in front of me) the one on the heat sink next to the big 50v cap. I tested mine and it was bad but also fried a bunch of smd's on the reverse side. It might be worth it to test out. Edit: The one getting super hot in the thermal video.
I'm at 9:00 and you haven't checked C310 yet. Circuit generates voltage, stops after a while, there's a capacitor to ground on the output; the first thing I'd think is that the cap is faulty and shorts out when it heats up. It looks like it has some kind of crack on the top, too.
Hi, thanks for the video... I didn't realise the old C64 PSUs were so dangerous! Do you happen to have any of these boards left (he says, 2 years later)? USS1701D
Yes, they can be C64 killers! Unfortunately I don't have any more spares, sorry. To be fair, adding a TVS on the 5V line would work - assuming you only have one C64. I think Jan Beta made a video on this subject. It's basically a component which conducts only over a certain voltage. There are some VIAs you can use on the PCB so it's a simple fix. If and when the PSU fails, you might kill the PSU or the fuse in the PSU might blow (but at that point the PSU is faulty already) but the C64 won't die! Good luck and thanks for watching this very old video :)
Nice video, I’ve been wondering if it’s worth buying an eBay model 30 as most remarks say stay away from them as they are non-standard and hard to fix. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching. The model 30 is available as 8086 and 286. The 8086 is mostly standard but the HDD - the floppy has a different pinout but can be adapted. The 286 is mostly non-standard as you say: RAM and slots are proprietary. Besides that, IBM computers are usually very reliable. Mine was kind of an exception though the MB and PSU worked. But look at what state the machine was! :) Good luck!
i just switched because there drivers are a nightmare my solo worked well on 7 works great on Linux....windows 10 forget it just trouble mic input has no head room painful just stay away
I broke at least 4 GPU as learning material and those numbers doesn't matter.... you can only trust your thermocouple and I'm using my first hot air from 15yrs ago(analog) and still very capable and reliable... Your large nozzle is good but you just pumping so much air that is why the heat is not spread properly... It's like a jet engine focused on one area to get more power....
Hi you pointed out two capacitor wen you resolder with flux around the C1 test point : R515 andR88, they look kike having a burn spot on them like faulty . What you donre with them i didnt see you replace them or if focis rite replace them . Its the faulty 1Volt no ?
As for the remaining crosstalk issue, it almost looks like this part of the circuit may be running on a single supply?! (Weird. Maybe they wanted to save power?) Then the capacitor tacked on to would be in an R/RC voltage divider for Vs/2 generation. Such a virtual ground has a finite output impedance and it shows when shared by multiple noninverting opamp circuits, depending on resistor values. For a better mitigation you would need an even bigger capacitor. For a clearer picture you would probably have to reverse-engineer one instance of the problematic circuit, including what the capacitor is involved in. Resistors running at 125°C are clearly running fairly close to their nominal power rating and should really be replaced by a higher-wattage part. Actual dissipation x2 is a good rule of thumb. I suppose they are ahead of some of the linear regulators, what are those regulating to? Don't say +/-5 V, that would be spectacularly dumb. (Maybe +/-8 or 9 V?) I guess regulator number 3 is for +3.3V? I am under the impression that the 1st-gen Scarletts still had a number of rough edges in general, e.g. people complained about limited max input limit in instrument mode (though this may have been mostly an issue for the smaller models with their +/-5 V supplies, which mind you were an upgrade over the single-supply Saffires that preceded them).
niiice! I use such a Jig for a year now, but the screw thing is new for me and sounds like a very logical step to get it work better :D will definitly try <3 Very good explenation! Thank you :D
Nearly EVERY power supply I've ever worked on is broken because the controller IC has gone bad in some way or another. It's never something easy, a blown fuse, shorted mosfet, damaged capacitor, etc..... ALWAYS the IC!! Normally this wouldn't be a big deal as it's pretty easy to diagnose, but the problem comes in when trying to source said IC. It's either marked with some manufacturer-specific part number that's impossible to find online because every reference to it is in Chinese (which I definitely do not speak/read!), it is a Chinese knock-off component that is close to the specifications of the genuine chip, but not quite and so fails sooner than normal because it isn't as robust as the genuine article, or my only option in replacing it is to purchase a clone from somewhere like AliExpress because it's available nowhere else and waiting 2 months for it to arrive with the other snail-mail!! It has become increasing frustrating when opening up a damaged product and finding random components that can't be replaced unless one has an exact donor board available, which of course is impossible unless you've been doing this for 40-50yrs and have saved every PCB you've ever put your hands on!!!! When I first got into this line of work, it was crazy exciting opening up something I'd never worked on before and being able to put my problem solving skills to the test, but that excitement has gradually been replaced with anger/frustration as I slowly zero in on the problem..... more often than not, a damaged IC that isn't available anywhere!!! 🤬🤬🤬
For small chemical capacitors, is it possible to replace them, for example, with higher precision capacitors, such as N-type electrolytics of the same values, or is it more complicated than that?
Standard capacitors are rated 20% by design. If the designer selected a standard capacitor that means that the circuit doesn't need a precise value. You can replace capacitors with better ones - longer lifetime and higher temperature - but I don't see the purpose of installing higher precision capacitors in place of standard electrolytics.
@@tony359 Thank you for your explanations that I understand well. The question is not about this card (which I will not buy under any circumstances), but capacitors in general. However, I notice that the more sound cards go up in game, the less they have chemical capacitors, in favor of aluminum body capacitors.
4 blocks (with 4 caps) for 8 channels probably means that 2 channels share a dual opamp which is probably where the cross talk originates from. You could lookup the data sheet of those opamps and see what the specs are. If they'd isolated each channel to dedicated opamps I think there would be less cross talk, or at least you'd have more control over it in the pcb layout.
I think the 2nd gen is similar in construction - I do know know if it has the same issue though. I doubt any op-amp came with 30dB separation between channels, I suspect the issue originates somewhere else - or anyways cannot be improved by just swapping some components.
If you still have the desoldered regulator you may want to check the actual threshold of the enable pin. The datasheet states 1,2V (they say min but I think they mean max), below in the text they state 0,7V typical. What if the desoldered device is a bit on the high side? You measured only about 1,3V. Problem is, On Semi says you should keep the device in shutdown until Vin is above 2,7V. With the given tolerances (we don't even have min/max values but only know the threshold is at least between 0,7V and 1,2V) and a nominal Vin of 3,3V it's not possible to meet this requirement with a simple resistor divider.
There is a divider but also a zener - at least this is what the SOLO schematics say. I can check on my 2i2 which should have identical components. The issue is that... the 1V issue is not resolved. I'll publish a follow up. I suppose I need to turn on the scope :)
@@tony359 It's not a Zener but a Schottky (symbol + part number say so) as far as I can see on the circuit detail you showed in the video. I don't really see the prupose of this part here. If there was a capacitor on the shutdown to limit rise time it would make sense to enforce a fast shutdown when the 3,3V voltage goes down, but so... In general I think the idea was to sequence the two rails which is why the first regulator has EN tied to Vbus and the second gets it's EN derived from the first regulator's output voltage. If it does not start again you could try to bridge the shutdown to the 3,3V to check if the NCP starts then. I think I saw that EN can be up to Vin+0,3V.
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This is some annoying troubleshooting. I have no idea why you started off checking DC voltages? If the unit had hum, it seems that you would start measuring for ripple at the DC supplies, especially since ripple not only causes hum, it can also cause things to stop working.
Pink Noise is equal energy per octave, whereas white noise is equal energy per Hz. If your pink noise is accurate, then a raw FFT display will slope down at 3 dB per octave, since the FFT's bins are all the same width in Hz. An RTA shows the energy per fractional octave band. If your pink noise source and your RTA are both accurate, then every band should have the same level. (copied from a forum! The bottom line is that Pink Noise looks flat on an RTA! Thanks for watching!)
@@tony359 Stupid me, I didn't realize the x axis is logarithmic, which makes it constant energy density per octave and not per Hz, as you wrote. Thanks for the explanation and keep up the great job :)
I've had a lot of problem with a Gen2 Fuckusrite. Actually, I suffered with it for years, then I got a Soundblaster and switched. Soundblaster works great in fact I've never had a problem with a SB product. Fuckusrite products are all hype.
Hi Tony! C365 is used for feedback loop frequency compensation purposes, it performs a phase lead function ( it adds a "zero" in the transfer function ), adjusting the gain and phase at the XO frequency, for a more stable feedback loop.
