At around 19 minutes in, while you're cleaning the glass, you appear to have an issue with flattening/cleaning the stone. I'm having this exact issue, whereby it just does not clean in the same as a normal ceramic stone. Furthermore, when I use the cleaning stone on the ceramics afterwards, it leaves huge white streaks (from the shapton glass stones) Did you find a better or another way to clean and flatten the glass stones? I'm thinking about ditching the glass stone route becuase they're just too much effort, on many levels...
ofc the feedback is going to feel different on the tiny vs full size stone. the 3k glass full size is an excellent intermediate stone. One of the best for sure. But yes, it's extremely hard and barely releases any grit. It wears very slow. Still it clearly cuts faster than a chosera 3k. The chosera leaves a nicer finish and is just better to use on wide bevels though.
NOTES FROM VIDEO ON STROP: EB User: Springfield Leather Co on "FLEA-BAY" ... Select: 8/9 oz leather in size 24" x 12" (no 12 x 12 option rn) Sugg.: Make a lanyard with the strip from the edge beveling tool.
@@yuxuansun8271 exactly. they are excellent stones but generalized statements like that are utterly useless. Some of them are the best, some of them are duds. Even in the same line of stones. also. a lot of varies by personal preference and also use case. What are you using it for? For wide bevels like traditional Japanese knives, Shaptons are 100% not even close to the best. The pro series is extremely hard and wears extremely slowly which means it's has very low friability. Great for edges. Not so great for wide bevels. But again, there are exceptions. The 220 and 320 from the pro line use a SIC abrasive unlike the others and thus they can cut any kind of steels with ease, BUT, they are very friable and can be very muddy stones. The other pro stones are the opposite, among the least friable stones on the market. The stones used in this video are excellent. 320 and 1k are two of the best.
@@ขนตูดมงคล suehiro makes a lot of high quality stones. for sure. but you can't easily get most of the best ones in the US and it will cost a large premium.
I have used the light gray King Deluxe 300 splasher for years. Looks and behaves very similar to the King Neo 800 sharpening vids. I believe the King primer grey splashers are all the same formula, but different grits; King Deluxe 300, King Deluxe 400, King Neo 800. Conclusion is based on brand, color, looks, splash-n-go, speed, hardness, user reviews, data from MTC Kitchen and official King MATSUNAGA.... The model names, Deluxe or Neo, are irrelevant, just marketing. Consensus says that King Deluxe 300 leaves a 500-600 grit finish. So not sure if the grits are even that different.
i think on that first stone what you meant to say is this is a rebranded Norton Ascent ceramic stone and it's a gimmick like everything else SC does. cheers.
I'm not surprised those rip off little stones had a lip. Lotta folks selling that crap cut it themselves. Folks make such a killing selling this crap. You buy industrial diamond powder and make water or oil based spray or paste which then sells for literally 100x and up sort of margin. 50 cents of materials sold for up to $50.
I dont think you need to learn how to switch hand. You have way better skills than most folks, even most folks who make and post videos like these. I see so many terrible whetstone sharpening videos and morons are losing their nuts in the comments heaping praise onto some bum that barely has the ability to get a sharp edge at all, and makes tons of serious errors in the process which will over time cause serious issues like changing the edge profile and whatnot. You can easily tell from watching you that you are quite proficient in your technique. Being ambidextrous would be cool, amazing, but it's a bonus, clearly not something that's necessity. I find a lot of the attention seekers who claim to have mastered that switching hands actually really can't do it, not well enough to where it's even worth trying.
I'm gonna just be blunt. Only EDC bro retards would even considering buying some dumb ass next to useless other than maybe for a razor spidershitco stone. Like what? EDC bros will just buy anything if it says spidernuts on it huh? Spidercuck branded chastity lock. I'm in. Cmon dude. Spiderco sells over priced and butt ass ugly knives to morons who don't even know how to use or maintain a knife and think the difference between fucking vg10 or d2 is what makes a good pocket knife. Just dumb dumb dumb shit. Like past a certain point, steel is one of the least important things. And among the properties of steel for bladed tools the one aspect which is by far the least important overall is the one thing these morons most hyper-focus on, durrrrrrr edge retention durrrrr. Yeah abrasive resistance. Sure, I'd like my tiny little fucking 3" pecker folder to have decent wear resistance too. Makes sense. But literally everything else about the steel actually matters more, just objectively, and especially when you're fucking comparing some stupid shit like s30v to s45v like the difference in abrasive resistance between these two steels is some critical fucking factor. Cmon man. Most of the retards that buy this overpriced stupid shit don't even know how to sharpen a knife. Which is probably why they're so obsessed with durrrr edge retention durrrrr. Fuck man I hate EDC bros. Fucking little boys ruin everything that's kinda cool. Guns? You can't even talk about guns cuz every video game addicted little fucking gnat that's never shot a gun in their life has something to say like they're a fucking guru because they play shooter video games 4 hours a day of their worthless lives. Sidenote, shapton glass are excellent premium home use splash and go stones. Especially for stainless steels. I wouldn't bother using anything above the 500 once you get up into 10v class steels tho. Don't bother., I also wouldn't bother using any of them to finish a razor. Not good. Unless you have a stainless straight razor, maybe that would be okay with the 16k, but IDK I don't own any stainless razors.
Well yeah buddy. Folks with good marketing are making a killing selling the stuff. You buy the raw industrial diamonds, mix it with either water or oil based, and sell it to EDC bro geniuses for 100x mark. I don't like or suggest spray tho. I find the oil based stuff works great on wood and leather. I find that diamond on wood seems to finish much finer than stones at the same grit. 2 to 3 micron diamond on wood seems to finish finer than even the finest sub micron finishing stones I have. And it cuts very very aggressively. That made me question the need for anything too fine, because you can get this stuff easily down to a tenth of a micron. Ive been using that for razors but Im questioning if it's beneficial. Get some wood, sand it down with like 220 grit or so. I woudn't go finer than 320. then I load high concentration diamond in oil. Trying felt and other stuff too, seems good for razors. If using denim or linen the spray will be needed, otherwise avoid spray
great info, thanks. Do you have any further recommendations to add since you posted this comment? Just out of interest, I’m going to try different carriers and substrates, such as baby oil, hand sanitiser gel (there’s loads of that leftover since COVID-19) and beeswax. I think the sanitiser is gloopy enough to hold the diamonds in suspension pretty well and it evaporates fast and the beeswax should hold diamonds into the grain of leather, denim, felt etc.
@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 I suggest mineral oil. tiny bit. on wood substrate. but go ahead, have a field day. there is no right way or wrong way. only what works or doesn't work. the only wrong move is getting scammed buying 70 cents of diamonds for $70 from edc bro retail stuff like gunny juice. as long as you dont do that, you're good. For $70 you can literally order a milk jug of the stuff in 50% diamond concentration. I dont use anything too funky if the knives are going to be used on food but for outdoors knives you can use different kinds of oils. wd40. whatever.
@@jeffhicks8428 Thanks for the reply. Because it's going to get on my hands the most toxic I was considering would be baby oil (is that what they call mineral oil in the US?) I use that on my plates now and it's easy to clean up and safe to have on my hands for extended periods. I'm looking online and considering which grits to buy. They're so cheap I think I'll get several just to play around with, say 2k, 4k, 6k, 8k and 10k. Speaking of rip-offs, I'd like some resin-bonded plates but the price for a full set is extortionate. Have you heard about anyone who's made their own resin-bonded plates? I'm tempted to give it a try and make a few course grits (200, 400 and maybe 800 grit) for my fixed geometry system.
You can, who is going to stop you? However the visible results will be from the coarsest of the two. So pretty much pointless. If you need more compounds you also need more strops. Don't mix them around.
@wayneholmes5786 I added the diamond compound too because the wax compond didn't do much , plus I am leaning ,to strop, I bought a Lasky sharpener too ,then I bought a works electric knife sharpener hasn't used it yet ,there a learning curve hereI was asking for imput from people who are better then me
Nice job. I was afraid you were not going to give your opinion on the Gunny Juice over the lapidary diamond powder. I'll have to pick up some of that from Gritomatic. Tried making my own strop from Lapidary powder years ago but it just sat on top all powdery and I hated the draw of the strop. I've tried Jende, but that dries out over time. Does the Gunny Juice dry out once you open the bottle?
I just picked up some of the "Stroppy Stuff" in 4 micron. Considerably less than the ol' standby Gunny Juice - but, seems we get what we pay for these days. We'll see....
it's not really a line. it's just 1 stone. but it comes in different formats like on the stand or standalone in the case and whatnot. There are 4 versions of it. ST-1 to ST-4. The only difference is the base vs no base, and the size and thickness. They make a giant one that's ST-3 which is more than twice the thickness and larger surface size also.
Both of these are more course than anything you'd need for a straight razor. and no at the very high grit end these are not good for straight razors. Straight razors are made from extremely easy to grind carbon or low alloy steels whereas these stones are made for chromium steels. There is another line of glass stones called the HC, these are the HR. The HC is more suitable. But I still wouldn't go for that. Naniwa Super stones are hands down the best razor stones in the world. The 12k is like magic, it's that good. and not just for razors. All you'd ever need is 2 stones. The 12k is a must. The other stone, there are many options. Two of the best are the 4k shapton glass or the 3k Naniwa chosera. That right there is all anyone would need to do anything to a razor, other than strops.
Nicely done video. I agree that burr removal can be tricky and I'm learning to slow down and really check that it's completely gone. Some of your traditional sharpness tests won't reveal that you've got some left. And not to pile on but I'm most interested in that stone! I had no idea that King had this line, and no idea that there was such a thing as green silicon carbide that was harder than the black. Seems like a real bargain compared to the other high-performance stones for the harder steels. I don't have anything crazy hard but I certainly have a few Japanese kitchen knives in the low to mid-60s Rockwells and a number of folders in D2 so this is very interesting news. BTW hear ya on the minimalist approach. I started out long ago with a carbon-steel utility 6-incher from the supermarket and the bottom of a coffee mug and did that for many, many years. I've upped my game since then but still don't see why you have to make a big production out of sharpening a knife. : )
I just did an old goodwill find case Xx last night on a shapton 320 and deburred with a plain piece of leather belt also from goodwill. It would pop hairs And let me tell you it eats cardboard like crazy.
Awesome thanks mate. Can I ask the difference between poly and mono diamonds actually are without all the sales stuff they tell you? And also does this give a toothy edge? Could you please make a video to show a sort of sharp knife before and after stroping with this and show the polish and also bite that it gives if you could? I was thinking about gunny juice but now I've seen your video I'm not sure. Thanks so much mate!
Have you tried the Ultra Sharp 600 and the 1200? Edit: looks like I should have watched the whole thing before I commented, lol. I see you used the 1200. I read something that these plates are coarser than Dmt, and better in quality. DMT ain't what they used to be.. so roughly what would you say the 1200 ultra sharp finish is like to a Dmt? Roughly closer to 600 than to a 1200? Thanks Mike
On your primitive cut take the leg of a pair of pants and fill about 1/2 way with rice and sew up the end. The rice will flatten as needed to level the stone. I wanted a primitive but only have one good arm and was afraid I would drop the stone Jesse is a stand up guy. Great looking set of stones. Thanks for sharing.
I have a Soft, Hard and Hard Black Arkansas Stone that have worked wonderfully for me for simple carbon steels and alloyed steels like 4116. What`s amazing to me is how hard and slow wearing the stones are, while having decent cutting speed and leaving a REALLY nice finish. And they are inexpensive, the three I have alltogether were like 90€ which is a killer deal, that`s the price of ONE Naniwa Pro stone xD
I keep my strops in ziplocks. Also, if stropping multiple with multiple compounds, wipe the blade before you switch to a different compound to avoid cross contamination. When loading my strops, I will spray them down with isopropyl alcohol then heat the strop with a heat gun before I apply compound. The alcohol and heat individually open the pours of the leather.
Nice tips Jesse! Zip locks are a great idea. I used to do it but just don’t bother anymore. And excellent point if using multiple microns the blade should be cleaned. Thanks!
Joe, my man. Been wondering about you, brother. Hope everything is well, man. Excellent video. Ive wondered about this myself but never could find any decent information. Im going to be trying this soon.
