@@lolosgaragediy7090if you don’t mind. Would you be able to tell me the exact tools you used to do this job? One thing I’m nervous about is starting the job and finding out mid way through that there is a tool that I need and don’t have. I appreciate your help 🙏
You don’t need special tools, everything is 10mm and 12mm. Just a ratchet, couple of sockets and different sizes extensions. Don’t do the job without a magnetic 🧲 spark plug socket. Basic pliers and screwdrivers. Good luck
Thanks for an excellent video on this process. That tip on the 12mm bolt will save my sanity. Now to get the parts for my 2017. Keep up the good work!!
How often should we change the oil? Why did one side of the circuit plug stop working? Just purchase on Thursday 7/12/2024. I have just changed the oil. Good and simple instructions without any long talking. Thank you sir.
Not too tight, you can check the belt pushing with your finger, find the longest run of belt between pulleys and push the belt, it has to give way like a half inch.
Straightforward, until you get to the frozen-in-the-bushing control arm bolt that make this impossible for a driveway mechanic! Another classic all-day "30 Minute" job.
I highly suggest to stay away from after market quick struts like these in order to keep original ride quality. Use OEM shocks or at least KYB and keep the original springs but you won't be able to do it yourself though without special tools.
Your video was a huge help thank you. I did my 2016 Highlander XLE today. As has already been mentioned there was a second hidden bracket on the passenger side with a 12mm bolt that is a bit tough to reach. I took this bracket totally off to remove one of the rear spark plug coils. My air intake had a combination of 10mm nuts x 2 on the ends, 6mm allen head bolts x 4 in the middle, and the two hidden 12mm bolts in the back. In total taking my time it took me 2.5hrs. The local Toyota dealership quoted me almost $600 in labour alone for this job. The video is very helpful and I found the job not too bad if you take your time and you have all the right tools.
I just bought a 130k miles 2019 Highlander. No clue if this was done at any point so… I guess I’ll schedule some time to go through that. Great tutorial I’ll watch more of your stuff !!!
Thanks boss ... great video.. i been looking around on a DIY but your video is still the best..thanks very detail.. torque vaule helped me .... Last question... is that a one piece? I have a 2019 acura ilx and the part only come in pieces.. dealership said they don't sell strut assy... @@lolosgaragediy7090
Okay that was one of the “ smoothest “ rear spark plug jobs I’ve seen for a 2016-2019 Highlander. I know you sped things up but how long did that take ( the rear plugs, the front plugs are easy ).
Thanks for watching! Honestly it took me like 30 minutes, it’s not that bad if all connectors and hoses detach without problem. The hidden bracket near the throttle body gonna give you a lot of trouble if you don’t know about it beforehand. Thanks again
@@kimokahikolekalihithe 2017-2019 Highlanders have both direct and port injection ( the “ new for those years 3.5 litre 2GR-FKS engine ) I believe. There shouldn’t be any carbon on the valves issues.
@@lolosgaragediy7090just a heads up, that 12 mm bolt behind the throttle body doesn’t have to come out just be loosened. Yup the connectors are a pain in the a$$ sometimes and another concern is putting the intake back without pinching any vacuum lines etc. I would just replace the intake manifold gasket while you have it out. One with over 5 or 6 years on it is more likely to leak than a brand new OEM one. Same with the throttle body gasket. Your air filter looks like it’s been changed fairly recently. This would also be a good time to use MAF Sensor cleaner and Throttle Body cleaner to carefully clean those from carbon, dirt etc. I just did that and even though my 2917 Highlander seemed to be running good for a 7 year old vehicle the idle and throttle response have noticeably improved. I’m also noticing the fuel mileage has gone up by around 1 mpg. A just over 3/4 throttle produces acceleration that is better than punching it before ( I forgot how hard the engine pulled before. Like I said it didn’t seem that bad for a 7 year old engine ). Your time was good considering you didn’t use any power tools and yes it’s critical to use the correct torque and sequence ( reverse order on the bolts when removing ) it’s a plastic intake. No antiseize needed on the spark plugs if they’re torqued properly. Good job man.
After you put steering wheel in place and tighten the nut is safe to pull the clip. Just remember to do it before installing the airbag. Thanks for watching!!
Gran vídeo, una pregunta he cambiado rotulas, barras estabilizadoras y castillos. Me siguen sonando cuando paso por una elevación. Puedes ser los trapecios? Gracias
Es difícil diagnosticar estos tipos de ruidos, todas estas piezas trabajan en conjunto. Normalmente si los ruidos vienen por cambio de elevación son causados por el sistema de suspensión pero, me he topado con barras direccionales o “tie rods” tan malos que los cambios de elevación también los afecta. Perdona que no fui de ayuda con esta pregunta, es que es difícil sin inspeccionar visual y fisicamente. Gracias por ver el video y su comentario.
