Hi! I'm Giedrius from Lithuania. I am an engineer, traveler & videographer. Mostly I'm making videos about my hobby in the garage and rarely about travels.
My eBay store: www.ebay.com/usr/iamvdub
CAMERA & EQUIPMENT I USE: Sony A7R V + Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 G2 OnePlus 6 phone camera Rarely Gopro 4 DJI action II DJI gimbals: Osmo mobile 2 Osmo mobile 3
Not every single aerosol combusts, I have tried brake cleaner, the one I had wasn't. Another thing, I always have cockpit cleaner on hand, can't say the same thing about brake cleaner.
Not possible, it must work on this ECU. Do you do everything correctly? You can switch it off manually inserting 60 in that exact location. You can find it in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qZ49hE5sHd4.htmlsi=GEp8CiJCQ31FeWjy&t=226
@@cristianpr hi, this cluster was for 2WD westy, it's showing properly. Now I want to convert my westy to syncro and I have a x950 spydo from II golf , I believe it will work
@@Gadomaitis i was looking to make that too, but it has so many things to change i remember, like que speed electric sensors, the diesel gauge or the signal lights. To much for me, but maybe easy for you ;)
@@cristianpr I want to change only internal part, just that speedometer mechanism, even leaving that back plate, keeping everything original, ratio will be a little bit off, but I reckon, nothing major. Same thing as bigger tires :)
One T25/T3 had a painted gearbox with the same outcome as yourself. The next T25 I chose not to paint it. Perhaps the key is using aluminium primer as another commentor suggested
Maybe if it started to oxidize, aliuminium needs a special treatment and the key might be that primer, as he commented. I will try to paint it this way
i just painted mine with aluminium primer and silver wheel paint. 2 years ago and 2winters in Germany an in total 60.000km through Europe and still looks fine powdercoted gets infiltrated at the spots where rocks hit it while driving
50% of 2'nd hand car market to Lithuania comes from Germany, personally, I haven't seen rust buckets arriving from Germany, like we do have here in Lithuania, people are choosing to buy 7 years old car from Germany rather same used car from Lithuania, because of the rust. I was wondering, what's the secret, no salt in street during winter, wax after buying it new? Appreciate your answer, I will paint it your way.
Hi, thanks for inspiring videos. I am planning a trip to the Baltics in my VW T3. Do you know a good and trust worthy mechanic that can do some body work on it and change of bushings¿
Hi, thanks. I would love to say, that I do, but not for bodywork. Mechanic- yes, my buddy runs a car service in Joniskis, I'm taking my T3 there if I have no time to do something by my self. If you are passing by Joniskis, I can share his contacts.
Hi, on various cars, he is not working specifically with T3, he just never failed on me, even though I have asked to do not to much for my T3 of course :)
excellent work, well done! i have opel astra h z17 dth , and after 15 minutes of driving, I can't downshift from fifth gear to third. I have to put it in neutral and push the lever to the left and then it will go in. as long as the car is cold, everything works perfectly. this happens after 15 minutes of driving. do you know what could be wrong? I changed valvoline 2 days ago but nothing
It just can't go into the gear, feels like there is no gear like, like a wall? Sounds like an internal shift control problem that is situated under the battery. Just a guess.
@@Gadomaitis that's right, my friend! in order to go down from fifth gear to third, I have to move the lever to the left in neutral and then put it in third... otherwise it doesn't click with anything. when the car is cold, I don't have any problem.I will put some grease on the outside of the mechanism under the battery
Hello, and thank you for your super well explained vidéos, I just changed my block meter (exactly as you video, with connection a my alternator) everthing works except that I havé an oil buzzer alarm thétique engagés 2000 turbo. What do I have to do to déleste or ? Thanks in advance.
@@lorenzocassar4525 Have you checked that engine oil pressure switch with multitester when revving up to 2000? It must work correctly, otherwise, you will have that buzzer buzzing. My advice not to delete it in any case. I remember I had such an issue when revving more than 2000 rpm, the buzzer started to buzz, but my problem was not a switch, it was the oil pump pickup screen half-clocked with silicon rubber from my rebuilds. Cleaning that screen in the oil sump solved the buzzer problem.
Hello. Please tell me if there is such a problem. I have calipers old model (two-piston), they squeak very loudly. After rebuilding the calipers and replacing different pads, the squeak did not go away. I looked at what they should be anti-squeak plates (I don’t have them). Is it possible to make them yourself and what kind? shape should they be? There is also a question about the piston, there are cuts on it, in Which side should the cuts face and does this affect the creaking?
I'm sure it looks much better than before, and afer all its a modern car so who cars. They're like street furniture, everywhere you don't notice them. I liked your idea using a light on your arm. Did you spray at night to avoid flies on your paint?
I had few accidents already with this car, so it was not just a matter of rust repair. Thanks! I saw a video with pro spray painter having special light on the gun, I thought it must be expensive, so I have found my own solution. I must say, when I was spraying base, usually I was finishing with base earlier and only next day realizing that it's missing few coats. Yep, to avoid flies, wind and dust.
wanted to do it by myself, but it seems too complicated. Nevertheless, it is a great video, to see someone skilled to perform such an operation. I would stick to buying more powerful and already calibrated pump then, haha.
Thank you. Don't know about the app, but for sure you can always send sms to the device too cut off the relay, though Extra wires must be connected to the relay.
I have same steering defect do not drive on dash but car drives perfectly mechanic plug computer cant see whats the problem. Will i have to change all rack just for light on dash?
@@Gadomaitis no nothing is missing everything works as it should just red light do not drive steering defective. I done wheel aligment and next day this light come on my eletrician said sometimes after wheel aligment rack gets some vibration and thats how it becomes faulty.
@@Gadomaitis yes i try everything. Checked all the fuses, disconnect battery for 10min, spin wheel both ends, checked all wiring cant see anything unusual. My mechanic saying i will have to change all rack but thats what they always say lazy to locate problem just change the whole thing. My only chance that there is some glitch in rack module or some wire is faulty 😔 my steerin wheel spinnig very light or easy just how it suppose to be or maybe even lighter.
@@mynde7275 the funny thing would be, if you would change the whole rack and it will throw same fault. those mechanics are, i would say- lazy cunt or lack experience :D
@@Gadomaitis I never expected it to need to have clear sky above in order to be visible. Thanks for help. I was on 10th floor next to window and it havent worked until device was bellow the sky directly.
Hi, the problem was, that there where no refence ( not dedicated to anything) , that's why I have checked all of them. You can find Aprox fuse location in the video.
Hi, to be honest, I don't know. If I were you, I wouldn't bother myself if there is a little play, even though it ain't supposed to be. Secondhand pumps in Lithuania are cheap to buy and replacing the seals doesn't cost too much if I'm doing it by my self.
Nickel plating using copper plating to enable the nickel to stick and fill imperfections. Although epoxy putty prior to powder coating. Will the poweder coat melt using an ordinary hot bulb?
Nickel plating would require a lot more time& knowledge. Maybe next time. It's not visible, but on the powder it was said, it can withstand up to 170 C°, I haven't checked, but I thought, standart bulb would not reach that high.
Hello, A nice video, but at about 5.26 into the video, you showed unscrewing the large , sorry I do not know what it is called, but then you sped past re installing it. My Audi A4 seems to be leaking from that large fitting, can I unscrew it all the way out, whilst the injector pump is still on the engine? Thank you
Hi, you can check at this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Xd092i60KVQ.htmlsi=bthWixNmnLwHNRhp&t=451 , this bolt can bolt can be unscrewed on car
the glass had oxidation marks on the inner side of the glass, but it was enough to polish it from inside. No visible rock marks on the outer glass side. Are you sure salt blasting it would not damage the glass?
@@Gadomaitis I've learned from a powder painter (who use metal blasting and others) that I could get back to life and polish my old vanagon glass with salt blasting. I'm not at that point of the restauration yet of the t3 so I haven't tested it yet, since you have the materials to sandblast you should check it out
@@Gadomaitis first time you will use a electric lift pump to feed vp37 properly for highed power levels... that seal will fail. If i would pull ot the pump and then seen i haven't all the seals needed for a complete job, i would let alone until i get that seal which missing. Just to not work twice for the same thing.
@@napraznicul Last time I used gravity feed to fill the pump, anyways this was my first attempt working on an injection pump and I can see that I'm fortunate, that it didn't fail from spinning completely dry after assembly. I wasn't to bothered about that seal, correct me if I'm wrong, the seal can be replaced without removing the injection pump from the engine? Not me, sometimes I need to redo my work three times, even though I do not want it and I would love not to come back.
@@Gadomaitis Yes, that seal could be replaced even with pump on position (on engine), before to fix pump gear. Your pump isn't feed by gravity, but by suction made by mechanical feed pump which is integrated in the front part of the vp37 pump. It make some 0.4bar of suction from the filter>fuel tank. at stock diameters of fuel lines. PS: using some thick grease and gravity (on lifters to incline car in the sense of keeping parts inside pump) you could reseal the pump easily ON THE ENGINE SUPPORT. Only for the front seal you have to pull out timming belt, obviously. You were lucky to choose correct position for that plate which can be put in two positions (0-180°). At my first try i wasn't very careful and assembled pump with plate in wrong position 🤣.. never start engine, just make nasty smoke - very wrong moment of injection.
@@napraznicul I meant last time I filled the pump with diesel from external bottle above the pump (gravity feed). Intresting, I was pretty sure you can't replace seals on the engine, just because of those lifters :D Good to know, I will keep it in mind. I can feel you, you know that ring on the shaft? The one that has a hole and into that hole you need to place the pump's head? I was watching my raw video to make sure, it's on the right side
@Gadomaitis, Hello, 1. After the 3000 abrasive grit, would you explain the other grits you have used please? 2. What is that white paste that you apply in between grits? …finally, 3. The Turtle Wax at the end, do you apply it with a plain sponge or is it something else? Many Thanks, in advance.
Hello, 1. All the time I was using the same 3000 grit abrasive pad, except I didn't like the outcome and I was keep replying the procedure. Later I started to use a slower drill. 2. Cheap polishing compound for car, I have smashed the original package, can' tell exactly. 1 kg of it costs maybe 6 eur. or something. 3. Yes, plain sponge ant buff it with the same sponge. Black, the one I have was quite soft.
@@Gadomaitis ok the cup that is holding the inner cv it's also has a pley and another problem I have my clutch, to clutch it you have to press it to the floor to get it on gears
Remove the rubber cup with pick, under the cap you will find cirklip and washer. Maybe the washer is placed the loose way, you can try twist it the other way. Does it leaks oil there? Clutch is a complete different story. When I have placed my tdi clutch, I had same thing in the beginning.
I did top seals replacement (the two square ones) yesterday on a VP37 5 cylinder yesterday and same problem : engine runaway. The head must be out of alignement, I did not make any marks during dissasselby. Do you know how to correctly align it without marks ?
@@Morgan-hs9ey look closely to bolt marks, are they back to exactly same places? If you have diagnostic tool, check injection quantity( injection pump head location responsible for injection quantity) If you don't have, unscrew fourr bolts and try taping the head with hammer, you will notice the difference.
