Welcome to my channel. Join in as I just spend some time working on my cars. Mostly on my two 3rd Gen Camaros. Pull up a chair, grab a beverage of some sort and *possibly* enjoy. You never know.
Check the diaphragm in the valve cover to see if it is blown by pressing your finger over the hole while it is running to see if it is making any sort of whistling sound. If that is good, check the PCV hose that runs from the intake down to the turbo. They are super brittle plastic that cracks over time and can cause a leak. The connection at the turbo is a quasi check valve that you should not be able to blow air back through. If you can, replace that hose. There is also a chance that the small little plastic gasket went missing from the connection of that hose to the intake that can cause a leak.
No problem. Anything that can be done yourself is better than dealing with a mechanic. Everything on my channel is DIY. Just various levels of frustration. If you needed to replace this one, I will pretty much guarantee your font motor mount is also shot and needs replacing. I made a vid on that one as well.
I am the guy that makes the aluminum/brass fitting. And yes I built two airplanes, but not for Boeing..:). If anyone wants one I sell them basically at cost to help folks out. It gives me practice on my new manual lathe in retirement plus it saves folks having that fitting snap off and calling a tow truck. HMU if you need one.
What do you mean by more efficient? I personally have zero experience with the ZZP kit so I can't speak for much that goes into it. I do believe that their kit is only offered with the catch can and the price is the same as doing the combo kit that I did. I think they both use the same catch can. The ZZP kit is definitely more "professional" looking with the mounting brackets and molded hoses. I do believe that you have to pull the intake off for the ZZP kit to add some sort of spacer (don't quote me on that). If that is the case though, you could just go with the updated GM intake that supposedly fixes the PCV issue (I have no experience with that intake either). In the end, it is multiple options that address the issue in different ways. I just chose to go this route, and it is the only thing I can speak from experience on.
Any chance your car produced the service stabilitrack light as well, and ran like garbage for a short time? I have had this issue before and changed some things including the valve cover. I don't recall having the P0004 code though. I recently replaced the valve cover again (used a cheaper Rockauto brand originally, so I figured it was failing again and the gasket wasn't working the greatest) and the problem persists (randomly). I am going to try replacing this and the fuel injectors. Both are likely needed anyway.
The only code I had was the P0004. No Service Stabilitrak light. My video coming up on Wednesday is actually the main causes of the stabilitrak issue. Since I won't make you wait till then, the number 1 cause is the negative battery cable. If yours is still stock, they had garbage crimps from the factory and you need to replace it right away. If you have already replaced that, check the rest of your grounds to make sure they are tight and corrosion free. If those are good, your computer connectors may not be tight or they may be dirty and need a cleaning with electrical cleaner. If those are good and you are *hopefully* also throwing a misfire code, it is probably your coil pack dying and that needs to be replaced along with fresh plugs. Make sure the boots are fully seated on the coil and plugs when you install them. Make sure the ground on the head directly under the coil connector is tight as well. Your injectors shouldn't need replacing. They last a very long time. As far as the valve cover, that is part of the PCV issues with the car since the diaphragm inside it ruptures. It may make your car run terribly but has no effect, to my knowledge, on the stabilitrak issue. You can watch my videos on the sounds the cars can make with PCV issues and how to check and my video on installing the PCV fix kit and catch can to get rid of all the issues. The valve cover shouldn't leak assuming that it was fully seated and not kinked in anyway, that you put a pea size dab of RTV on the front and back of the engine where the timing cover meets the block and that you tightened all the bolts in the correct order to the proper torque spec.
@@greasyfingergarage there was a service bulletin on the negative battery cable. I took it to the dealership but they wouldn’t replace it since I didn’t have visible issues at that time, now I am over the 125k miles. Suggestions on brand/where to buy? I thought it was $400 last time I checked. I am going to try this as well. I did seem like I was sucking gas though. I didn’t drive very far and seemed like I used a lot of gas yesterday.
@@jlstep6 Well the dealership needed to replace it and you shouldn't have left until you made them. With that being said, don't know where you are but O'Reilly's has a direct replacement for like $38. Takes all of 2 minutes to actually change out. I'm sure RockAuto carries them as well.
@@greasyfingergarage swapped out the cable and it seems to be running better now. If I get the P0004 code again I will try the fuel pressure sensor. Thanks for reminding me of this issue. It was just easier to do it myself than deal with them again. I am already dealing with VIOC on my other vehicle.
I am assuming you are asking why your car would throw a check engine light. There are tons of different reasons that your car could have one. If the light is on, you need to get the codes scanned. Then you can start the process of narrowing down what it is causing it to throw the light.
@@nikamoney4172 I doubt it. I would think that would probably come from your coil starting to die or possibly bad gas if you just happened to fill up when that issue appeared.
If you use a handheld hacksaw to cut off the threading on the old mounts they come right off. On the new ones I dremeled some of the unnecessarily long threading and they went right in. Doing so eliminated having to unscrew the subframe. The trans mount ended being the easiest to do. Thanks for the video.
Use silicon brake grease only the slide pins. Regular grease or brake grease will destroy the rubber boot on the calliper slide pins letting water get into the bore causing rust and seizing the pins. Don’t put grease on the end of the pins. You may have to use a wrench or visegrips to hold the calliper slid3 pin from turning when to tighten them. Turn the steering wheel so the calliper faces out giving you more room to work. After completing the brakes, start the car and pump the brake pedal until you get a hard pedal before driving away, hitting the brakes and getting nothing.
No problem. I try to make things as easy as possible for someone watching so they can get the job done and not have to worry about trying to track more information down.
@@greasyfingergarageHey I have two questions tho, how did u tighten the holder for the catch can because my hands cannot secure that damn bolt and r the hoses connected to the catch can supposed to be tightened or secured at all
@@bruhbro I used duct tape to hold the bolt in the bracket and the bracket to the car. Put the nut on bolt in the fender well and used a gear wrench to tighten it up. The hoses to the can are held on with hose clamps.
Friend, I placed the oil trap wrong, the line that comes out of the gases goes directly to the oil collector, then it comes out without clean oil and there is the t connection to the PCV and turbo.
If you don't have a check engine light or any stored codes but do have a leak around the solenoids, it is just a seal replacement. If the solenoids were needing replacement, you would be throwing some sort of code. As to what the exact codes would be, I have no clue.
You sent this right as soon as I hopped to edit a new video so you are in luck with a quick response. The area that the lock slides out of is the tab you push down on. The lock sits underneath it to prevent it from being pushed accidentally. When you slide the lock out of the way from under the tab, you will be able to push down the back end of the tab (where the lock was touching when inserted) and slide the connector off.
I had the same problem after replacing the head, I didn’t see any ground wire hanging off the harness so it would start until I grounded the coil connector wire straight to the battery. Thanks for the info, I’ll go look for the ground wire I missed
just did this and luckily I had already ordered a new PCV Hose for this car months earlier. Lucky I did because the valve in the bottom part.( near the turbo) eas completely gone. When you take that hose off if you can blow air from that bottom part then the valve is missing. On the new one when you look in that bottom part of that hose connector, you can clearly see the orange valve. You can actually suck through but you shouldn’t be able to blow through it. I simply took the new PCV hose. I got and cut the ends of it off to use instead of the old one. Not expensive at all on eBay or wherever anyways, I think this is something important people should know. If you did it without replacing the bottom part of that hose then you are probably missing that valve also. Should be easily remedied and replaced.
I don't think the valve being in the hose you are replacing matters when you do this. Those are replaced by the external check valve in the kit. Just replacing the PCV hose itself can sometimes fix the issues since that is leaking pressure back. But they just end up blowing again at some point. The purpose of the kit is to replace the PCV system with something that doesn't suck.
Came back to let you know I got the job done following your instructions. THANK YOU!!! Took a little less than an hour including set up and clean up (putting the tools away and parking the cars back in the garage). Weird thing. When I started the car when finished I did so with the hood up because I wanted to make sure everything was as it should be. The engine was revving at 1,500 rpm and the fan came on super fast and hard and wouldn't slow. I closed the hood. When I put the car in reverse the rpms dropped to normal but the fan was nuts. I drove a 1/4 mile and decided to turn off and restart the car. The fan was fine at that point and never went nuts again during my test drive. What would cause this? So weird.
Rockin. And no problem. As far as the car acting differently at first, sometimes a car just has to relearn what it should be doing after it is touched. I'm assuming you didn't disconnect the negative battery terminal when you did this. That is more than likely the cause of it. You don't need to disconnect the battery when you do it, but it could always be a good rule of thumb when it comes to dealing with anything electronic on a car.
@@greasyfingergarage you are correct. I left the battery untouched. I debated disconnecting it but dismissed it and moved forward. Thanks again! And thanks for replying.
No clue. I do know that there were clearly enough issues that GM would start covering the valve cover fixes and refund stuff that was already done, to an extent. They wouldn't refund the money for the crank seal failing due to it. Or the oil pan gasket getting blown out. If it is a class action lawsuit, it means nothing. The only people that benefit from those are the lawyers. They get 98% of the money and everyone else comes away with like $2.37.
Yes this fixed the issue. The is the entire video and every bit of information you would need to do the job. The part and number are in the video. You just unscrew the old sensor and screw on the new one.
I have a 2013 base model 1.8 L non-turbo.. just change the coils and spark plugs and valve cover gasket because it was leaking causing skipping while I had the valve cover off I cleaned it PCV valve openings with the valve cover off mates for everything was drained wiped cleaned reinstalled valve cover new gaskets Etc stock car up no more skipping so the coil pack and spark plugs and Etc take care of that but somehow I ruined my PCV valve hissing and making noises out of the valve cover of course similar car but different engine on Turbo instead of buying a new valve cover with the new PCV valve set up in the cover can I just disconnect what's there and put a catch can where am I going to need that vacuum leak fixed
I have no experience with the 1.8, so I am probably not the best person to answer this question. I do believe the PCVs are far better in the 1.8 than the 1.4 and can be replaced independently since they aren't a part of the intake like the 1.4. I also do not know if the 1.8 is overpressurized like the 1.4 due to the turbo and terrible PCV design. If you were wanting to add a catch can, I would imagine that it could be put inline of wherever the PCV hose runs, as long as it isn't affecting the flow around the EVAP system. You will still need to have some sort of PCV valve in the loop though. Your best bet would be to look and see if Supercruzes or ZZP offers a catch can kit for the 1.8 and see how it works. You could also probably ask them the question directly. They would be more knowledgeable about it than I.
I don't know what the name of that piece is or if it is available individually. I looked up exploded diagram views of the PCV system and it shows everything in that hose to be one unit. You may have to call the parts department of a dealership and ask them to see if their system shows it. If not, you would have to get the entire hose and cut the connector out of that. Maybe you have gotten lucky though and the piece isn't missing but is actually stuck up inside the elbow. If it is extra dirty, it could be there without you being able to see it.
These vehicles are a real challenge. There’s got to be over 20 places it can leak oil, coolant or vacuum. Hoe GM ever got away with building these engines with the same issues for so long and without offering a warranty extension is almost criminal. People who own a 2011-2019 GM vehicle with this engine ( Cruze, Trax, Sonic and Encore as well as the European models ) should have expected a “ fix “ for these leaks and not the dealership simply replacing the parts so they can malfunction again 10,000-30,000 miles ( 16,000- 50,000 Kim’s ) later on. To top it off the plastic valve cover and plastic intake have increased in price by quite a lot.
i had the failure happen, saved me thousand dollars literally.. been 20k miles and still going good. best fix ever, no need to replace the entire intake!
While every car runs, it has water vapor, air and oil mixing together, forming a funky orangish sludge. How much is produced depends on a lot of different factors. The catch can separates that sludge from the air being fed back into the intake to be reburned. Does a car need a catch can to run? No. I can't think of a single car that comes with one from the factory (mostly because it would just be something else that the owner would have to keep track of). They definitely have their benefits though. You just have to decide if the added cost of a catch can is worth it for doing the fix. But you can do just the fix kit and it will take care of the PCV issues.
My daughters Cruze does this. Intake cover has been replaced recently but p0171 code came on and when you pull the dipstick it whistles. Too many problems with these cars. Good video though!
Yeah there can be a lot of problems but they are all systems of 2 things: junk PCV and cooling lines. These problems are just a system of the PCV system and that needs to be addressed to stop these.
@@ownSystem Depends on if it a Gen 1 or 2 Cruze since they switched midyear in 2016. If it has the same engine and part numbers as my 2011 in the video, it should be the same.
Thanks for the feedback. I really want to do this kit and fix problem ahead before it causes problems. Everything looks straight forward except putting the epoxy with adhesive and cap. I really get confused and wouldn't know what I would be looking for. Does the kit come with instructions on how to take off original and cap it off with new kit? Thanks again
I thought I did a fairly decent job explaining it. At 9:50 in the video I take a pic and just poke at the orange nipple in the intake until it breaks up and I can push the pic through the hole without resistance. I then use a shop vac to suck all the pieces up in there. Anything that is on the other side of the wall where the rest of the PCV is will just get burned up in the engine. (This happens all the time on their own when they fail). At 26:00 I go through the process of putting the plug in. You can also look up the install video made by the PCV fix kit guy himself if you want some more info as well.
Can you tell me what was the mileage on the Cruze when you did this job? I have a 2014 Chevy Cruze Lt with turbo and mileage is at 86 thousand. Thanks for the video any feedback appreciated
That's good info to know for all the Europeans out there. I'm sure it may be used in more vehicles under the GM umbrella like Holdens, but I can't keep track of every car the engine is in the states let alone everywhere else. Our coolest cars for several years here were just rebadged Holdens. It is the GM way.
Thanks from Scotand UK, just noticed an oil leak on my Vauxhall Astra j which I think is the same as a Cruz and nailed the leak down to this solenoid valve seal. Great to see it's an easy job. just ordered online from fleab*y 7 pounds
@@greasyfingergarage Almost May and only 12 degrees, ( oh that's 53Ffor you guys) crap weather here. I want to move back to Spain where I lived for 30 years
@@andrewmackay8856 I would love mid 50s. Just not all the rain. We have already been over 80 freedom units close to half of the month and came close to 90 a couple times. I just want fall all year long.
I have a catch can for my 2000 Toyota with 210K. I can see the oil mist from the PCV hose in the headlights. I don’t want it to turn into carbon buildup.
The PCV out of the valve cover to the intake is how the system used to work on OBD1 cars. I do not know if doing that exact layout would work on a forced induction system. You would also need to modify the valve cover for a tie-in in some way. So you would have to pull the cover off to drill and tap something into it without getting plastic in the head. You also won't be able to tie directly into the current plastic line that runs from the intake to the turbo. It will just disintegrate on you. ZZperformace offers a kit that runs out of a new oil fill cap to the turbo, then new lines to a spacer that goes between the intake and the head. So a long answer to your quick question. But I truly don't know if that layout would work. My assumption would be no and you would still be throwing codes.
@@levialston518 The biggest issue is making a solution that works without tripping any of the obnoxious and unneeded sensors so the car stops throwing codes. More computer controls means more things that can cause problems with said controls.
One thing is always certain when it comes to paying someone else to do work for you: you will get ripped off in some way. I did not disconnect the battery when I did it. But if ever you are in doubt, its only a couple seconds to disconnect the negative and not what to worry about anything.
