For over a century, Raybestos has been world-renowned for brake parts that are innovative, dependable and safe, making us a global leader in the automotive aftermarket.
Our dedicated team of quality engineers works tirelessly to ensure that each product we design, including friction, rotors, drums, calipers, hub assemblies and hydraulics, matches or exceeds OE form, fit and function. Each product is extensively tested to ensure you are receiving a high-quality and reliable product.
Our attention to detail during the entire process, from research to manufacturing to packaging, differentiates ourselves from our competition. When it comes to aftermarket brake parts, the choice is clear: Rely on Raybestos.
Learned a lesson today. Always use the clips that came with the caliper. We were trying to install the new clips that came with the new pads and fought with them until we realized they where much smaller than the ones we took off. The original clips went back on in seconds. After watching this video, I knew there was something not adding up.
A park brake that cannot be trusted. At least the lever/cable system wouldn’t fail because of a leaking seal. All seals will eventually leak. Then no park brake.
In my BMW just replaced rotors pads full service found a warped pin replaced cleaned everything and already have my front left giving weird signs occasionally when I had to brake hard for a stop and it locked up quite a bit and pulsed. Then today after a lot of rain I noticed the front left again is just starting to scar on the outside who knows about the inside it’s brand new pad and rotor and the bigger issue is it never fixed any vibration from me cleaning and replacing.
I have less issue with the hub area rusting. My biggest concern is the brake surface rusting. I bought a set of brakes with geomet coating on the rotors and the hubs are fine, but honestly, I don't care if they look pretty. But the brake surface rusted, pitted and completely wore out a set of ceramic brake pads in 11 months/9,000 miles. I'm just looking for a rotor with better rust resistance in the metal itself, not a coating on top.
Just use what 90% of repair shops use: Sil-Glyde. Clean and lube caliper pins, clean caliper bracket insets of all rust, thin grease inset areas and install new hardware, use very small amount and in thin layer on top of clips where pad ears meet clips (don't apply to pad ears themselves), use on back of pads where piston and ears meet pads. Use Sil-Glyde for all. You'll never have a problem.
As a factory-trained Ammco service tech I've collected a decent amount of genuine Ammco parts over the last 40+ years. I'm retiring and have a parts inventory list if you are interested.
Just wanted to share some symptoms of brake hose clamp gone wrong... I to old to do my own services anymore, so took my 2018 Toyota to the local dealer. They checked and said it also needed new brake fluid.......I think they also adjusted the handbrake. The first highway trip I did about a week latter gave me the impression the handbrake was dragging slightly..... after about 5 miles at highway speeds the van started shaking like as if it have lost wheel balance weights, as I slowed down the vibration/ shaking went away.... I was checking engine temp and oil pressure the only thing that seemed wrong was the fuel economy read out was indicating real bad fuel economy and the vehicle was sluggish in acceleration... So I stopped and while checking if I had a loose wheel I discovered both back wheel hubs were so hot you could feel the radiant heat 6 inches away with your hand and it was accompanied by a burning smell. I let it cool for about two hours and then attempted to limp home, sort if feeling it was badly adjusted handbrake i was dealing with... Once home I phone the local garage that did my service and explained the problem and how I was not to keen to drive it any further, as I was staring to think such extreme heat could be burning the dif seals, hence the smell of burning... They sent out a mechanic who jacked both back wheels up and tried out the handbrake, it was stopping and releasing perfectly.... making me seem like the boy who cried wolf, as the problem seemed gone... Just as he was about to pack up he asked me to apply the foot brake, then he asked me to release the foot brake, he even checked to see I was no where near the foot brake, the back brakes were locked on hard. We were both puzzled at what could cause that, but when I mentioned the service included brake fluid change, he said ok ley me check something and dived under the van appearing a few seconds latter with their shops brake hose clamp.... After which the brakes were prefect again.... I post this in the hope it helps someone trying to sort their brake problems.
I use ceramic and its good braking. But semi metallic has more bite. But it is hotter in rotor disk and downhill is smoking. So im thinking for ceramic back
Can someone please help me I had brakes and did the vvt on the driver side on my 08 ford expedition and had the valve cover off and couldn't reach a bolt and had to turn the wheel so I could reach it and I turned the key to on to turn the wheel and after I put everything back together brake pedal is still stiff like your towing it and have no clue what caused that
Have this on my “new for me” 2013 RAM. When repairing I’ve noticed that they do not use the steel clips in the bracket like we are used to seeing. The pad just rides in the bare bracket. I think that has a lot to do with this issue n my case.
Man i though i found my answer but this isnt it. My 93 chevy makes this noise when im letting off the brake coming from a complete stand still. Then if im in reverse i have to give gas to get it to start moving.
Lmao just find out that one is missing on the passenger side of my passat, The clunking sound has driven my crazy and i cannot express how happy i am to find out it's a 10€ fix
Yup, exact same problem. I replaced the calipers but couldn't figure out why one brake was dragging. With the car parked I would push down on the brake pedal but by the time I got out of the car to the wheel to turn it, it had freed-up. The restriction was right where you said it could be, on the clamp.
Surprisingly this clunking/thumping noise only happens when I brake on a very steep downhill. Why would that happen? I wonder if it was to do with my ABS too
I can’t find my particular squeak online. Mine isn’t a constant squeal. When I accelerate it’s like a rhythmic squeal. It stops when I let off the gas. It’s coming from what I can tell is the driver side rear.
