I’m just a regular Joe like you, working away in my little one car garage trying to make old junk better. Basically saving all the old iron in the world one truck at a time!!
No special tools, zero budget, I’ll drag these things home from out of the trees and do my best to make it a good running, driving, stopping, no longer a rust bucket easy project for someone to finish……. Then sell it to one lucky person at cost.
I usually drop them here on the page before going to market, typically they go to a subscriber, may as well be you!
This was awesome info thankyou. I'm looking at a kimpex portable winch that hooks onto your vehicle battery good for 2500lbs and is only 200 bucks. There also drill winches up to 1000lbs now too. So much more useful than a dedicated trailer winch. Edit - check out portable winch capstan out of of canada if you need something with a motor or battery operated and infinite length rope, but pricey
great work can't wait to put the motor in happy to see it all put together and a lot easier to move around. this is what am talking about. old school best way to grease aka by hand
Not sure why this video didn't come up on my feed until today. Maybe it's a glitch with all these Premiers. Maybe it would be best to just post when the videos ready instead of all these Premiers?
Yeah I’m kind of learning my way through this premiere thing, I guess when I upload the thumbnail it does something….. plus I’m old so the learning curve is a little off. Regardless, it’s noted!! LoL
I'm in the U.K, I want to remove about 3 layers of paint on my 58 Buick to get to the original. What is that product you used? Oven cleaner? Not sure we have anything like that in the u.k. what type/brand did you use?
It's rediculous that you have to have a spacer and a different flexplate to go from what in the 1970's would have been going from a 350 to a 400 trans, and you didn't have to change any of that, it worked no matter what, with maybe the exception of a 6 bolt flexplate vs. a three bolt flexplate for a different conv but most of them would accomplish either one back then as well.
@@GoWthDflwNrlx thanks, I have been around a fair amount of the Canadian GM cars with buddies that owned them over the years and for some silly reason the Canadian GM plants really kept track of records so there is quite a bit of info available because of that.
The Canadian branches of GM, ford and dodge made Canadian versions of cars the US made but they were little different trimlevels and named differently from 64-69. The chevy2/nova was one of the cars GM Canada made and it was known as Acadian and sold through the Pontiac dealerships but it was not a Pontiac. Trade laws changed in 1969 so the Acadian that was being built in Ontario, st thomas (?) Ended and GM would build all the novas for 1970 for Canada but the Canadian plants still had lots of badges and chrome trim etc for Acadians so the ohio plant used all that up in 1970 once that was gone all the cars came out as nova. So this is an Ohio built Canadian badged Acadian. Cool car.
I really like those rims, like my square body had. You got approval for that complete front end?? What are you going to eat for the next month 😅 sweet!!
I have a question. On my 61 Chevy pickup it started jamming about a year ago. I’m assuming the passage holes you’re referring to are the square holes? If so the problem with mine is they aren’t north south out of adjustment it’s east west. They are not even close if that’s the correct slot. I’ve tried everything I’ve gotten it to shift many times but it’ll keep jamming after a week or so. I really need help with this. Any info ? One linkage is straight while the other is z shaped.
Finally an Albertan fellow car nut on you tube hello from Strathmore buddy , I am 72 years old that still loves working on old style cars and trucks . well done , I will subscribe you have common sense and you don't quit until you find the problem .
I have 400sbc that only smokes out of air breather on valve covers no smoke out tail pipe has to much crankcase pressure i guess can't figure out why it's smoking any ideas thanks
I just realized you're smearing lubriplate all over your camshaft. That is really really old school and should honestly NEVER be done for more reasons than one. The main reason is it's not a high pressure lubricant, it's just general purpose so you take a good chance of wiping out your cam lobes especially with the new stuff.
My secret mix is a packet of ARP Moly lube and Comp Cams red cam lube in a 50/50ish mix. That has never let me down when putting a full cam kit in including valve springs. If the lifters are 2024 vintage you're saving grace was probably using the original 307 valve springs. I did a very similar upgrade to my 88 Silverado except it's a 305 TBI engine. I left the original 35 year old springs on it until after the cam was broken in then I installed the 80 lb seat pressure springs that came in the kit. So far it's working perfectly 😊
Automatic transmission? If so, check your vacuum modulator on the transmission, connected to the carb/manifold via hard vacuum line. If the diaphram has a tear, the tranny might shift ok, but allow fluid past, into the combustion chambers, and you get smoke like your Nova's vapin'.
I was worried about that too!! I hate a bunch of work that would be to undo that. We got to the bottom of it and released the video yesterday. Pretty surprising
Good job diagnosing Ron. I didnt even think of that. Car sounds great. Also, another way of setting the valves is to do one cylinder at a time. Turn the engine until the exhaust valve starts to open, then adjust the intake. Then rotate the engine so the intake valve opens and just starts to close, then you can adjust the exhaust valve. Then move to the next cylinder. Doing it this way puts the lifter on the base circle of the cam and the valve lash will be perfectly set. It might save you some time too. I can lash an engine in about 5 minutes doing it this way and using a remote starter switch. If you are not familiar, it is a switch that clamps on the battery and the starter soleniod. When you push the button, the engine turns over.
Thanks! I got lucky on that, read the right thing and just happened to check it out before I got too deep. I have adjusted valves that way too, works good when a guy is just after the intake and or exhaust like you say, one is open the other should be right where ya want it for adjustment.
Nice job tracking it down! I commented about it maybe rings or cylinders being out of round but I still had my doubts because it was a fresh rebuild but again great job of process of elimination the correct way 👍
