Welcome to rustenuts! We're Dave and Liam, two friends crazy about classic cars and military Land Rovers!
We are proud to be working with Mad Ford Engineering (Land Rover & Ford specialists), go and follow along on Mick's streams on Twitch: www.twitch.tv/mad_ford_engineering
Did you know that your rear engine lifting bracket is missing? That will explain why that front rh head stud it's sticking thro it's nut. There are 2 2 slightly longer headstuds that fit thro the lifting bracket at the rh rear of the cyl head. Also those aftermarket rocker covers usually lack the originals breather mesh behind the hose stub and can cause oil burning.
Hi Sir, I did not know, I haven't seen the lift eyes on these engines, but I will see if I can get one. thank you. The rocker cover is direct from MG so it does have the little breather and is replaceable/cleanable so that's good. Thank you for the advice. thanks for watching.
Well done - I have a very similar looking car - GT6 chassis with Spitfire body. It gives the car enough power to be fine in modern traffic and makes a great noise. Had mine since 1999 so has had all sorts of things done - just retired so hoping to drive it more! Mine is Sapphire Blue with a red leather interior and the GT6 dash. I did have stromberg carbs to start with, changed to S.U.s as they are easier to work on and don't have the problem with the rubber and alcohol fuel but have since changed to fuel injection using the S.U.s as the throttle bodies. I do have a set of triple Webers in the garage with the correct manifolds but prefer not having to stop every 100 miles!
I have a similiar age 109 petrol used by the Indonesian military, but clearly more a civilian model. The lugging when you open the throttle may be sticky advance weights, the Lucas distributors are well known for it. Lack of advance will bog it, then the weights move and you are off. Lots of work for you to get on with, as always the condition of the bulkhead is more of a concern than the chassis holes. Doors are easy to change. I have leaks on my front tank and can get my hand inside thanks to that huge filler, still waiting to find the right putty but defo worth a go. Hand painting with the right paint and brush is perfectly permissible for a Series. You will find coach building enamel was hand painted back in the day. The top looks like it may have holes in it, they can and do fit with the right gaskets. It needs to come off and you need to strip it all back to assess condition rather than add bathroom sealant. That LPG tank is a waste of space and very badly fitted. Depending on which tanks youhave replacing the rear tank with one makes more sense. The front tank has a good range anyway if not leaking and there is room for one on both sides. And that LPG conversion under the hood looks home made, no way you should have a hole in the bonnet when a modified air horn would not be as tall.
Lpg was the first thing we removed, it turns out it also did some damage to the engine but you will see that in our other videos. As this is a FFR the ignition system was all shielded so difficult to find issues. We have now progressed to a full restore to its original Military condition. hope you enjoy the journey of BOB.
Thank you. Great to see and follow along. Did you need to reshapen any of the leaves of the springs? They do go saggy or can crack over time, My resto project will ne betting new leaf springs as I have a broken leaf and after >30y it just seemed sensible, plus they had quite a lot of leaf on leaf wear. Maybe LR are better or they yours have been replaced. Cheers and cool camera!
😂 when Mick said “I’ve got a solution for that” I thought he was going to say expanding foam a fibreglass filler 😮, oh sorry that’s only for transit vans….
Fab. Be good to know what those amazing clamps are that you used on the welded part above the footwell. I was hoping to see but sadly they might have ended up on the cutting room floor. Mentioning cutting, I agree that the disk tool from team yellow does look awesome. Might have to check that out. Can you put the Dxx number in, please? Also keen to see how you do the seam sealant (application and product) so please don't skimp! It's what Bob deserves and this is useful for those tackling our own projects.
They are called Butt Clamps, no joke. I didn't do much filming of them but future episodes of the bulkhead do show them in a little more detail. they are excellent. The little team yellow grinder is a DEWALT DCS438E2T-GB 75MM 18V. The seam sealant will be covered in detail when we cover it. the plan is to get the chassis and bulkhead in primer then seam seal to make sure underneath the sealant is protected, then we will do top coat over the top. hope that helps. Thank you.
@@rustenuts Thank you. I'll look out for the clamps, and I do think I need some of these for some welding. They are cheap and small so no probs. I did find the DCS438 but it wan't easy as it's not a common tool at most shops etc. Team red also do something similar and while neither are really expensive I'm wondering if I can print or make an attachment to a small angle die grinder and use 2" cutting disks. I think the trick is being able to cut a fairly straight edge so it's easier to build and then weld in a repair patch. Will be looking out for seam sealant. I know nothing about that, but am ok with the bathroom type. How hard can it be? Cheers!!
Love it. It's brilliant that it is warts and all. Easy mistakes and pitfalls that you'd only know about through experience. Gives us all hope. Thanks for posting!
Great update. I think a spot weld drill bit will be 'better' than a regular drill bit for removing spot welds, but normal bits are a lot easier to re-sharpen. Regardless it's important to get a good punch mark to start with. Good luck and keen to know what Mick uses. WDMD? What Does Mick Do? Thanks for the reply on the little square level. Could have done wiith one of them when I was rebuilding a trailer. One will be handy for some driveline alignment and plenty of other bits and bobs (see what I did there?).
Excellent buffoonery, tom foolery and mayhem, but all in an excellent cause. Thanks be to Bob! And Mick etc Think I must get or make a parts washer. A couple of vids ago Liam used a little digital level cube thing. Might you know what model it is, please?
Thank you, the little box is a digital spirit level basically. if you copy the following description in to Amazon it should bring it up for you. "Trend Digital Level Box and Angle Finder". They are very helpful but you need to make sure the chassis is perfectly level first. hope that helps. Thanks for watching
There is nothing wrong with your work or welding , as some parts are not avaiable such as patches for all areas of rust that affect morris minors. Be carefull on chassis as they are structural load bearing areas., really make sure that the metal in these areas are upto the job. many pepole patch (cover rust and dirt) only for it to rust through and inside chassis, oil inside chassis as water tends to sit i use cooking veg oil as it evaporates it provides a thin gooey film that arrests rust. (poor mans waxoil) Another seroius rust point that can make or break the restoration of the car is rear spring hangers, these areas along the mounts are another weak spot. its hard work but your saving a british car, and its a part of our history parts are cheap.
