I’m loving the vids. A few constructive criticisms. If the camera focus is giving you problems or anything just keep filming without mentioning it. If it rly bad you can refilm. Also a voiceover or music over the time lapse would be good idea. Loving the rebuild content
Such a clean build. How long ago did you stop making watches and start building engines? Enjoyed watching the craftsmanship and learned a bunch along the way. Respect!
lol I’ve never made watches, but I’d love to one day. I truly appreciate the support. Im glad I can teach and help you guys out. Thanks for following the build 🙏🏼
Hold up hold up correct me if I’m wrong but arp clearly states in my instructions to not have any oil or lube between the washer and head. You can put the lube around the threads and above the washer and underneath the nut so that the nut can slide with ease over the washer but we want the washer to have friction against the head and not rotate hence the reason for not having any oil under the washer. Please tell me what it says in your arp instruction manual as of date? I know they always be changing up the procedure so if I’m wrong fill me in bud…..
ARP is forever changing, but as of the date these were ordered (April24) the instructions say to lubricate the washer, nut, and stud. If you watch, I only put a small amount anyway and after the first toque sequence most of the lube gets pushed out. I’ve installed headstuds both ways and have never had an issue of the cylinder head lifting. At the end of the torque cycle you’re still yielding the same clamp force with or without the lube on the bottom of the washer. If you look at the washer during the second torque cycle it usually stops moving too. Some applications have a stamped washer to lock into the cylinder head, and my assumption is that if ARP wanted the friction then they would apply that to these kits. Either way, End of the day it’s negligible. But I follow the updated directions (except on m5X engines lol)
@@OnlyyDans let’s not even begin with my frustration related to the m5x topic 🥲 it’s a love hate with that one! Especially when I did a perfectly normal head gasket august 2023 and just before Christmas I received an early gift, now mine you from the time I rebuilt the engine till this point I’ve been giving it hell all summer long and not a single hiccup or sign of issues. I specifically I recall a shift in the weather that took us from normal to winter here in Los Angeles and this is when i saw something my eyes could not believe. Gasket failed again and coolant is seeping outward between the block and head and what’s mind boggling me the most is how it isn’t mixing this time and how in hell the leak is under the intake !!!!!! In all my years of working on these 6cyl engines I have seen them piss oil and coolant regularly due to old age and heat deteriorating the gaskets sealing capabilities especially around the areas of where the red thin sealant resides on the gaskets mainly nearly the exhaust where temps are the hottest. But never have I seen a head leak under the intake and defy the laws of physics and gravity. I’m so pissed because I went the extra mile this time and even sent the head out to the machine shop and did arp too. Normally in these situations when the car shows no signs of overheating like with two other s5x engines I’ve had over the years. I’ve literally just done gaskets slaps at home and we are driving by night but this time I said to myself she’s a keeper let’s not be stupid and let’s get the valves cut and surfaced decked. And then this is the outcome of me taking extra measures to prevent such a failure LOL I hate these old bmws
@@OnlyyDans but real quick regarding the bolts and nut on the head and torqing more great and the more sliping of that washer against the head will yield and much higher overall torque load. We don’t need washers bitting into the head and cause unforeseen deformation of the mounting points over time 🤷♂️
I did use that, and POR15 holds up very well. POR sells specific Engine Paint, but I’ve moved away from the glossy finish to try and make it look more flat black like a factory engine would be. I didn’t see any signs of flaking unless the area was improperly prepped
@@OnlyyDans quick question, how did you clean up the coolant passages? I saw that the blocks coolant passages were still rusty after the machine shop and then suddenly clean?
