Thank you for stopping by... I have DIY videos featuring Ford Crown Victoria police interceptor P71/P7B, Dodge Charger police 5.7L Hemi, 6.0L Chevrolet Caprice PPV, 2014 Ford Police Interceptor Sedan "Taurus," 2011 GMC Acadia, 2004 Nissan Maxima, 2004 Ford Mustang Cobra supercharged, 2017 Dodge Grand Caravan, 2008 Honda Odyssey, 2013 Chevy Silverado, 2010 Toyota Camry, and 2004 Chevrolet Avalanche, plus guest vehicles from time to time. I also do golf cart, home, bicycle, and other DIY stuff. find me at: www.wjhandydad.com and Facebook: facebook.com/WJHandyDad/
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I think if you have a perfectly sized ball joint tool *and* a powerful impact wrench it works fine but I didn't learn that until long after the video was made
Thanks for the reply. I have watched some more videos and am still none the wiser. I'm taking it to bits yet again shortly. I am still certain everything is in the right place and nice new seals fitted. This is embarrassing as there are so few parts.
you referring to the Taurus Turbo? I finally bought a Taurus but it was the AWD 3.7L not the turbo. It was sneaky fast but honestly the sound of it revving was "angry lawnmower" compared to the rumble of a V8
This was one of your best videos. You showed displeasure that always seems to be a part of work like this. Also a far more difficult job than I realized. Love your videos.
it's basically the same - you just have to factor in the wire length so that both the front and rear can reach the control box, and you may want to wire in a switch between the brake and control box so you can turn off the fronts because I noticed when I had fronts they tended to false alarm a lot in the rain
It really comes down to what you want. Would you want more horsepower, newer styling, and somewhat modern technology? Or would you rather have a simplistic, smooth, and reliable car that’s cheap to maintain, and has lots of space inside? I would say the only good modern era interceptor is the Charger, just because it’s naturally aspirated, and somewhat easy to fix. Every Explorer and Taurus has one major design flaw (and you know what it is), that internal water pump! What was Ford thinking, other than just wanting to waste taxpayers & civilians money because of repairs / replacements of a bad engine. Ford used to be all about quality, but now it’s trash. And it’s sad that Dodge is discontinuing the good Mopar lineups, and replacing them with pieces of crap cars. That’s why some Police stations are STILL sticking with the good ole Crown Vic.
one of my cities has 2 that we bought from another city. Judging by the paint, I think they are doing service in their 3rd city now (they have multiple layers different colors)
I knew I was going to put a spotlight in eventually, but you're right, if this was going to be a permanent fill (like I did on the Taurus Interceptor) I would have filled everything
THIS is how DIY home mechanic videos should be! I like that you started with that reality check up front, if you aren't confident, you'll bite off more than you can chew and that will cost you a lot more than paying someone else to do it.
Is there a proper orientation for the wiper arms, ie, driver's side and passenger side? Ford Parts shows a different part number for each wiper arm on my 1995 Mercury Cougar XR7 4.6L engine. That implies an orientation for each one to me. Thanks for the proper removal/installation latch instruction and tape position idea!
I can't speak for a 1995 because I haven't worked on one. On my 2008 & 2010 there isn't a "proper orientation" other than eyeballing - I find they generally sit level to each other at the bottom when they do the best window clearing
are you asking how long it took to install? I don't remember and of course when filming it takes longer than just doing an install. I still have the push bar on
Heck yeah man, you don't know how much help this video was to me. I have an 09 Crown Vic P71 with 220k miles, and she runs and drives like it's brand new now! Good ole' reliable. FYI, if you're buying a Crown Vic from an auction, GET A CARFAX if you're really wanting to get that certain one. Make sure the transmission was maintained at least every 50k miles, or whatever Ford recommends. If there's no history, stay away.
I was all set to tear my 35 year old jack completely apart and do a full rebuild when I came across this vid. Decided to give it a try and it worked like a charm. Saved 30 bucks for a rebuild kit and have a like-new jack. Thanks!!!
You didn't mention anything about purging the air out of the yellow and blue hoses. The way you described, the air in the blue and yellow hoses will go into the system. The can at 3:30 has freon so that is more than likely used to add oil in a system already charged. Air is a no no in 134A applications.
I normally purge the line by loosening the connector at the top of the yellow line until I see refrigerant coming out since my gauges don't have a purge on them, I would have thought I did that in this video too. But thank you for reminding folks that they can't let air in the system
There are a lot of different additives such as octane rating enhancers, corrosion inhibitors, lubricants, metal deactivators, stabilisers, and antioxidants to prevent fuel degradation. How do those additives in the fuel react to the water?
I don't have the scientific background to answer that. All I can say is the fuel worked fine in the short term, but I needed a higher octane to use it long term, and eventually several local stations started stocking the ethanol free so it became pointless for me to convert the e10 to e-free
@@WJHandyDad Thank you for the response. Hopefully one of the car-tech channels will look into this, as I think people underestimate how complex modern fuel is, and how the complex emission systems in our car make assumptions about what's in the fuel running in the car. Watering out the ethanol in the fuel is cool, but knowing what else the water is interacting with in the fuel is equally important, IMO. Great content on your channel, BTW. 👍
I was doing this to make e-free for my carbureted lawn equipment, not run in any vehicles. I am now trying out one of those supposed "stabilizers" for ethanol fuel used in carbureted equipment. We shall see if I'm having to replace carburetors next season....
Hello. Sorry this is off-topic, but I wasn't sure if you had a vid covering my issue. I'm having a problem with my a/c and heat that I hope you can help me with. I have 2008 CVPI with manual climate control. It blows ice cold a/c but no heat when I bought it. Figured it was the BDA. Got the correct new OEM BDA and replaced it. It went pretty well, did it in about 2.5 hours. Drove it up to temp and discovered that I had a medium hot/cold temp regardless of where the temp control knob position was. Did it all again. This time I carefully opened the new BDA and set it to full heat. While I had sight of the BDA after reinstalling it, I tried adjusting the temp control knob. Nothing happened. I checked all fuses, wires, and connectors. All good. I then thought it might be a bad potentiometer in the temp control knob. So I put everything back together. Now have hot heat but no a/c. Ordered a used good condition temp control panel. Replaced it. I did hear a hiss when disconnecting the vacuum lines from the old panel. No change. Someone suggested it might be a vacuum problem. Checked lines, no leaks. Removed the black vacuum box on the firewall and rerouted the lines, as was done in a vid someone sent me. Still no change. I'm now thinking I got a bad new OEM BDA. What do you think could be happening here? Also, I followed the procedure for disarming/arming the airbag. The first time I had no airbag light. After the second time I now have the airbag light. Tried the entire procedure three times since then and checked the wires and connectors, all good. Still have the airbag light. Thoughts on this? Thanks in advance for any
it's really difficult to diagnose folks' cars over the internet, but since these cars are notorious for having blend door issues, that would be worth checking to make sure it's functional. For the airbag I do have a video where I replace the passenger warning light to fix the airbag light
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Life story ends at 1:50 and the removal info that you are looking for is 1:50 to 2:10. Yes, 20 seconds. You're welcome. No actual example, just the jist.
@WJHandyDad I know the people who just dropped their license or key card into the console and are in a panic will be desperate to get to that point. On the way to work, my parking pass card slid on the lid and disappeared in the console. Your video saved my butt! Going back to listen to your story gave me an idea to look for other harness connections for the 12 volt outlets. They sell plug-in connections with a fused power and ground to connnect a dash cam, another outlet or USB. It clicks in between the original connector and the cigarette 12v outlet. No need to cut the stock wires/splice/solder. Where did you add your extra outlets?
Well if it were me and you have decided to get a new unit I would be taking that thing apart till I could possibly find or see what is actually wrong with it. Then I would report back to the company what you have found then trash it if they don’t want it back.
We just wanted to see if the top dome is missing. Not how to replace the whole thing. Just how to replace the front cover. I guess I have to buy it and figure it out on my own. I hope it just screws on
please help! 3 of my windows went out in my 2010 P7B all at the same time, lock switches work on the drivers module as well as passenger. only one rear windows from drivers switch goes up and down other windows dont work at all doubt its the motor or regulator on all windows.. what would be the likely problem
@@WJHandyDad Thank you for the reply. I'm rewatching the video and noticed that you also made scuff/scratches on the metal piece did you try this method before with the other glues?
Thank you for the great video! Also i appreciate the dedication and patience that took you for making this vid might of been tough to be worried about the filming and taking that troublesome balljoint out😅😂 Now wish me luck on changing mine😂 thanks again!!
Worst engine oil is 0w-20, this is why engines are failing, don't go less than 5w-30, i still run 10w-30 , have 350,,000 on my cars, no engine problems, trans of course., ..
Just know how a transmission works, its pumps, clutched, friction plates, steels and all that to put power to the ground... AtF is an incredible fluid that can take alot of heat and cold and still flow... Check it out... Not motor oil .. but can it clean out slug, of course it can, so can diesel oil, marvel mystery oil, but never run for more than 15 minutes.... Then drain and put in Good quality oil....and good filter.... Not Walmart filters...
I run ATF i.n chain case on my snowmobiles, why... It lubricates , doesnt freeze, has so much additives, you think your motor gets hot??? Your transmission , gets a whole lot hotter with the friction clutches and pressure plates and clutches, wow ..
