I post videos on crappily documented electronic components from china, and whatever I am interested in at the moment. Just know that thumbs down, thumbs up, watching a video, and commenting (good or bad) promotes my channel. nasty comments will be deleted. free speech does not apply here. If you complain about any aspect of my videos or how I do them you will be blocked. If you ask a question and get no response either I have not seen the comment, or the question is answered in the video.
If you want me to review a product I may do it under these conditions: I don't sign anything. I review them as I like, the way I like, and when I like. If your product is good then I will say that. if it is not I will also say that. I may take it apart.
If you are triggered by how I talk, then this is probably not the channel for you. I do try to edit out excessive uhs and ands, but if it cannot be done without a visible jump cut I don't do it. My videos are unscripted and single takes.
How would one amplify the audio a littlebit more If I power the transistor (BCF or how is it called) with a separate 9V battery, or I use 2 transistors in series, would this help? You at least can hear something, my nearest AM station is150KM away (with only 15kW of power) And even when I connected TA chip to my electric fence antena (long wire about 500m long on top of the fence, isolated from ground with ceramic isolators, that used to be electric fence in the past) I cannot hear a single station, even at night :(
@@ObsessionoftheMonth nice thats exacly what I need I do wonder what does tranzistor even do here (on this TA circuit)? I thought it would amplify, but why so little? Is the voltage going into it to weak?
@@DXingSlovenija I did not design the circuit, I got it from the ta76421 datasheet and from someone else that built the circuit. I just designed the circuit board. I think it is just to boost the output, and you are correct it does not do it very well.
Great video. Similar problem here. Drive 2 keeps disconnecting/failing during a resync. Thinking it was the drive, I purchased a new one to replace it and the same problem happened so I'm pretty sure it is the box/backplane. While I search for a way to repair or replace my TS-231 what is the best way to transfer the data from the NAS to an external drive? I did quick test with a USB drive and it was horribly slow copying over some MP3s. Is there a better way?
Got my hands on a Fujitsu Power supply with almost the same connector. I think the ABCDx123456 is a standard connector in servers. Looked through the whole internet to find a pinout, thanks to you, I found. You are a king!
Thanks for the manual! I had a difficult time tracking it down. Just picked up a 27/FM off of ebay... takes be back to my Navy days as an electronic technician.
Just joining in, as ui picked up a Talking House, version 5. This unit has minimal hum right out of the bow, using the original adapter, through a surge protector to a properly grounded outlet. Wire just draped across to a curtain rod, full length at about a 45° angle. Using a run of the mill AM/FM portable it goes about 60 feet. In a car it goes nearly ¼ mile. Frequency is set to 1600, driven by a NOAA weather radio, line out with no distortion at all. I do get a significant amount of a phasing riding along with the carrier, modulated. At 540, the signal is very clear with nary a trace of hum, nor the phasing issue. I have heard what appears to be a click, very much like an internal switch in the ATU adjustment stage, when scanning from a low to high frequency and visa versa. This unit has no been molested. Gathering all tips and tricks before I experiment. Very nice video, by the way.
My radio will power up, yet, when using the remote, the time will flash but never get the FM radio to turn on. I have had this problem multiple times if I unplug the radio for whatever reason. VERY annoying.
Just curious before I break into some of my UPS units (warranties of current units I have in use are starting to expire)... Does anyone know if high power *_Cyberpower_* UPS boards have similar readily accessible adjustments (in particular to set float voltage)? Better yet, can anyone point to anyone who has posted details on the Cyberpower internals, torn them down, etc? I'm guessing the high power APC units I have are probably patterned somewhat similarly to the unit "Obsession of the Month" is dealing with in this vid, so I'm focussing on the Cyberpower units for the moment. I've been searching online for awhile and not finding anything very useful regarding detailed examinations/discussions of Cyberpower UPS internals. I've got a mix of APC and Cyberpower all 1000-1500 (highest rated unit handles 900Watts), and EVERY unit I've measured maintains a float voltage that by a fair amount exceeds 14V on each 12V battery (including the units that use 2x12V batteries in series). Some of them are floating the batteries considerably above any recommended range I've seen for this class of battery, which can significantly reduce the lifespan of these SLA/AGM batteries (e.g. a battery that should last about 5 years lasting closer to just 2-3 years or so).
the old back-ups are calibrated like in my video, newer APC UPS's (smart UPS's) can be "calibrated" with a serial connection. I tried it with one of my smart-UPS's and it sort of worked. www.jjoseph.org/notes/apc_smartups_battery_float_voltage I have no cyberpower units and cannot help with them.
@@ObsessionoftheMonth Thanks very much. I didn't see that in the Cyberpower program, but I wasn't looking for that specific parameter at the time. I'll revisit.
That bracket on ours broke in exactly the same place and I did the same type or repair twice. Found your video looking for the light bulb. Thanks for the part number. This old microwave far superior to anything you can buy new.
… so I have a cheap clamp meter that I purchased just over a year ago and never used as the thing I purchased it for never happened. Today I took it out of the drawer and when I switch the clamp meter to DC amps I get a O.L reading on both the 60 amp and 600 amp settings…? The AC seems to work fine? Anyway, I’ll try what you’re suggested, but I am not holding out too much hope. Thank you for the video.
I came across your video looking for information on using this tuner without the control panel but with PC control using a specialized cable. I know it can be done, I am holding the cable in my hand trying to find another or the schematics to make one. I used to have a dc powered mini-itx pc mounted in my Blazer. Since I mounted the touch display where the factory head unit was located I lost my tuner (all audio was run through the PC and out to amplifiers, the audio output from the Visteon was handled with a cable I made myself that used an audio cable from an optical drive to RCA outputs, I almost installed the same connector on the Visteon) I think the reason they stopped the production of these units was BECAUSE they could be PC controlled... meaning you can tune to an HD station, have your PC record digital audio with (hopefully) correct tags, make mp3 files named and tagged, and store away, legally... public broadcast. If you would like I can get you more info on the cable, I am trying to re-learn how I did this over a decade ago lol.
I do have one of these. I might have bought it easily 12 years ago. I used it for a few years with 2TB drives. I programmed it to switch on every day for an hour and I had a backup software that was backing up my important stuff to the NAS on daily basis. With the cost of the NAS and the 2 TB drives I think I spent more than was really necessary. I could have gone for a cheaper solution. I haven´t used it in several years and I agree the User Interface sucks, but I never had a problem. I was wondering if I could sell it second hand, and I´ve found your video. Now that I see it is problematic and kind of garbage I probably will take it to the electronics disposal center.
Ive had one of these for 2 years now, it does NOT require you hook a hose up to it!, Im in HUMID mississippi and Ive never had this thing leak water., and Ive never hooked a hose up to it. mine works perfectly.
I just bought the GMT-312 . Once the battery was in ,it worked for testing dc voltage and dc amps . Then stopped dead . Opened it up again and found a fuse . A kids fuse that blows at 0.2A/ 250V . designed to fail from the get go .Replaced with a 1.25A / 250 V fuse . Works fine now . What a Micky Mouse fuse to install . All it does is panic the user into think that they have bought an expensive piece of junk that I now have to take back to point of purchase for repairs or replacement .Shame on BG Instruments !! ........
I think that your L/C Circuit at the antenna input doesnt have to much "Q". You have a very "broad" tuning and one reason for that could be a bad "Q" of the coil. Are you sure you have connected ALL different wires of the litz wire arround your loopstick antenna? They all have to be selected and soldered with no one left out! - Otherwise this will damage "Q" of your Antenna Coil... how about that?, Heinz, DE0RST
this circuit came from a site on the internet. at to the wires, the antennas I have tried did not have litz wire. I used rod antennas pulled from various old radios.
Dear friend have you ever checked out a simple standard coil with 330uH or more for medium Wave? TA7642 has a very high input impedance (normally) and that will not load your L/C circuit so much that your tuning is so broad. If you watch other videos on YT with TA7642s, MK484s, ZN414s and so on they all have a very sharp tuning... Your variable air capacitor and the high Input Impedance of theTA7642 can not "destroy" Q of your L/C Input Circuit so much. There are two reasons for that i would think . First a bad coil (see my comment above,) Second a bad TA7642: Can you replace it with a trusted one! Wish you good luck! Heinz, DE0RST
Hi! I have the same (unswitchable) automatic charger but the alligator clips broke off of the wires, would you be able to tell me which is the positive on the connector that connects to the main body?
of the 2 I have the positive wire has 3 ridges, while the negative side has one (sort of). however even if you hook them up wrong the charger should tell you by the charging light not coming on when attached to the battery. you might be able to tell which is which with a volt meter.
I've got one of these, bought in about 2006/7 with 4 2TB devices. Worked perfectly for a great many years, only ever had to change a single drive once, about 2015,, and the system rebuilt fine and has worked fine since. However in the last month it suddenly just lost the entire configuration and therefore all the data. Found this video when trying to find help on restoring the existing data. According to the NAS firmware (as you say it really is incredibly simplistic) all the drives are fine, just no volume to store data on, and the only way to create a volume formats all the disks and therfore loses the data that I hope is still on there, just currently inaccessible.
I no longer own this jump starter. after replacing the batteries in it 3 times I parted it out and bought a lithium ion jump starter that will last 10 years at least. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6nk9MnGklTk.html all the information I have about the jump starter is in the video. I will not answer questions about this jump starter as it is over 15 years old.
Dam were did you find the lead paint, lead paint is a good EM shield 😎probably helps shielf from the bases radar also. Good you worked it out instead of creating electronic waste.
