I have this same unit and today I replaced the drain pump in about 20 minutes. This video helped but I will add a few things: 1- You do not have to remove the top. Remove only the front panel of the coin catcher and then tilt the machine back to get to the 3 10mm bolts that hold the pump assembly to the bottom plastic frame. 2- You do not have to remove any of the hoses from the pump body. After removing the 3 10mm bolts, pull the pump assembly to where you can remove the 3 screws that hold the pump assembly to the metal frame. Then remove the screw that holds the cover over the drain motor, unplug it, then remove the 2 remaining screw of the drain motor. **Make sure you pay attention to the orientation of the drain motor as it connects to the pump assembly. Then simply reverse the order of everything you did.
@@diyrepaircorner If you would have tilted the washer back, you would've had to just undo 3 screws to remove the pump assembly and removed the pump without removing any hoses.
The houses are built on Piers. But the floor is not so therefore we have movement when this clay expands. You can do a structural floor with 8 to 10 inches of concrete two layers of rebar and put piers throughout your floor with cardboard void underneath. This is a structural and is mainly used in commercial buildings around here very expensive.
At 0:45 - if the drywall holds the two parallel bottom plates together (and not so much the nails?), then isn't the drywall screwed into both the lower and upper bottom plate? If the floor heaves upwards and closes the 1-inch gap then wouldn't the drywall buckle at the bottom? Also wouldn't the heads of the nails tend to back out of the upper bottom plate?
Most guys ive seen (me included) do floating walls drive 6 inch nails through both plates. That way the wall is actually able to move up and down independent. The way you have it here, if the wall moved up all your nails will disconnect from the bottom plate.
Basements around here the concrete just sits on the ground. Wouldn’t make any difference if you had rebar in it or not, it would still flex and crack. We Only use rebar in a basement slab if you’re going structural
@@diyrepaircorner I’m in New York State and also nobody bothers with rebar on the basement slab. I have tons of clay underneath my house very close to the foundation, but it never ever dries out, so I have no apparent movement.
In Winnipeg, we have expanding clay in the ground and I was told by an engineer around Toronto. They have clay that shrinks all depends on what part of the country you live in and the soil conditions. 👍
Not a structural wall just a partition wall between rooms. We have basements that have been pushed up up to 3 inches in this area. Kind of sucks. Code requirement
Well you suck foe 30 years of experience. This is a floating wall for areas with extreme weather/heaving in basements and it's code in many places. Its so the floor can move and not push your wall into the floor joists above it.
You suck for 30 years experience then. Its a floating wall so the basement floor doesn't heave it into the floor joists above and it's code for any places with extreme weather and crappy ground.
@@ronduckett5017 Some people use pressure-treated This is a new house and there is 10 mill poly underneath the concrete to protect from moisture. Plus I put a seal gasket (1/4 styrofoam) underneath the bottom plate to keep it off the concrete.
@@diyrepaircornercrazy, that makes sense to me. For sill plates always use gasket instead of PT. Engineer on the job told me PT isn’t to be used on the homes framing (and this was a lintel ply, and the outermost ply of the 3 ply lintel).
I discovered that the number 1 reason why this happens is because (hard to believe that almost everyone underlooks) the furnace is sloping the wrong direction. In other words its draining the wrong direction causing condensate to accumulate and overwhelms the gasket. Its much easier for a installation tech to level it and let it burn or leak and burn the inlet motor. But check the direction of flow of drain. It should be going away from not into furnace Furnace owners check level of furnace check what direction slope!
Fellow Manitoban here- what’s code for properly doing moisture/ vapor barrier on the perimeter walls? I’m seeing conflicting answers, MB hydro states to put vapor barrier on the backside and front of the wall- but I feel that would create a moisture problem
I live west of Denver where code requires 1.5" expansion gap. I'm redoing a 50+ yo basement that had gaps, but the construction technique was inadequate. I haven't been able to find much DIY information on framing doors and, more importantly, a tiled shower stall. City inspector wasn't much help, nor were the two contractors I talked to. I'm all ears for any advice or sources of information!
You frame the walls with the gap at the bottom. If the floor does move up you will have no choice but to but to ajust the door and accommodate for the movement.
Wouldnt the cut weaken the stud. Sure your putting the screw in it as well but the load will never be translefed as well as if it was full. Most people tend to plane the side down a bit instead. What are your opinions. If it was just one stud then it will be ok especially on a partition wall but if it’s load bearing and also multiple studs I wouldn’t recommend. What are your opinions
If it was a loadbearing wall, I would just replace it. Just a partition wall the odd one a screw might just do or you can scab a piece of scrap lumber on to help hold it. That’s what I would do.
Sorry guy, that is not a wall. Its closer to a screen. nailing chalk and paper sheets to wooden struts doesn't make a wall. Regardless if you guys call chalk board, dry wall
@@kencampbell-rf6ot The wall is basically suspended from above and has nails that go through the 1 inch gap at the bottom. if the ground expands and comes up, the nails will bend in the gap will get smaller. Drywall is installed on both sides to hold it in place also.
Do you remember what model LG washer that is in the video? It looks like mine, which is a WM3670HVA. Other RU-vid videos showing the same drain pump replacement for this model washer approach the repair work differently. They want to gain access to take out the pump by removing the front door, which in turn requires unscrewing the control panel so as to fold it back to access to get to the screws to remove the door, and then to get access to pulling out the control panel, the top of the washer is taken off. Doing all this gave access to the drain pump for removal from the front. The method in these videos seem straight forward. They only complain of the difficulty of getting the wire spring back around the rubber door seal. Is the technique you show in your video the common one used to replace the pump? I fear putting down the heavy machine on its front could damage the control panel and/or door. Another question. Why is it necessary to disconnect the water hoses from the machine? Why could they not be disconnected at the faucets and let hang? Thank you for any response.
Thank you! There are many videos demonstrating how to do this with minor differences by model. I have the same exact model with the 3 bolts holding the pump/housing in. Thank you for also showing the pump wire connections. I hastily removed the connections without noting their position. None of the other videos show the connections. Now I’m just waiting on my pump to arrive to swap it in. Thanks again!
thanks for the video. I used your advice checking the lines and in my case, found that the rubber tube lines inside the top box after taking them apart to investigate were clogged with debris as well as a few other areas. I cleaned them out. I'm hoping this is the solution to eliminating water backing up. will need to check on it and see next several days and counting. this has been happening for years even after changing out the exhaust blow fan when it failed, maybe it failed due to all the water getting in it which is what it was doing.
there is only one reason anyone would put a 10mm hex on a replacement plug, and that's to ensure there is another avenue for the owner to end up back in the shop. thanks for the video!
7:24 In addition, pack some grease on the back side the seal where the circular spring is. This will help keep the spring in place when you bang on the seal from the front with the hammer during install.
