Random technical stuff and projects. Some but not all Heathkit-related. You won't see pleas to mash the like/subscribe/notifications buttons, as none of this is intended to be monetized. Comments of course welcome and all read!
You should have put it on a proper line and blown it up. If you would have shown the failure in the product in a safe way that is all we needed to sum up this very thorough and awesome video. Show the public what happens when you plug this cheap crap into your walls and forget about it.
Actually, that idea did cross my mind, as I assume videos titled "...with explosion!" might be popular. Unfortunately, that would require, if you believe the specs on this unit, a source of >900VAC, which I lack. Thanks, tho for the suggestion!
I built several Heathkits back in the '60's. They were my entrance into the wonderful world of electronics. I have numerous pieces of Heath gear, both tube and transistor, from power supplies, to test equipment, to ham gear that I've built, picked up from ham swaps, or from friends who have become Silent Keys. Also, my business partner is an old Heath engineer, so I'm deeply involved with Heath. Recently I've considered just building some simple projects based on the Heath schematics themselves as I have a large selection of surplus parts. But to be honest, I'm having fun building custom projects based on things like the (tr)uSDX QRP transceiver, then adding more bands, low-pass and band-pass filters, RF attenuators, RF pre-amps, RF power-amps, battery packs, antenna auto-tuner kits, audio amps, good speaker, SWR meter, large color display, switches, buttons, etc, every mod and feature I've felt like adding based on these building block sub assemblies, and putting it all in one convenient package. I loved Heathkit. Still do. Still maintain and use my Heath gear. But tech marches on. There is more to learn and more to do.
Fortunately, Heeathkits are fairly straightforward to refurbish and keep running, and, particularly for amateur radio gear, still as useful today os it was 60 years ago. Thanks for the comment and 73 from a fellow ham.
Heathkit was a big part of my youth because my dad was a HUGE Heathkit guy. From what he says, Heathkit offered a 25" color TV set before any of the big manufacturers, so he built it, and watched the moon landing on it. That set was in our TV room until the picture tube went and dad didn't have time to fix it. He always swore he would fix it, but after enough time had passed he couldn't find a replacement for the picture tube and he junked it. But growing up he built (and I helped build) dozens of their kits. Our entire home stereo was Heathkit, the doorbell, various pieces of test equipment, and I even did their Novice HAM Radio course. He even had a Knight reel-to-reel open-reel tape deck that was in our basement growing up that I played with. It got me interested in recording and it became an obsession, and I ultimately went to school for audio engineering (after studying EE for 2 years at a Junior college). Years later I found an Allied Electronics catalog in the basement and I was able to find the exact model reel-to-reel machine that he had built all those years ago.
I would have loved to build a Heathkit color TV back in the day, but it would have represented a significant investment on my parents' part, and they'd have to wait until we finished building it before we could, well, watch TV. There are several RU-vidrs who specialize in restoring analog TVs, but oddly, it appears no Heathkit TVs have survived... Thanks for commenting and greetings from a fellow EE.
I found a Heathkit AA-32 integrated tube amplififer on a stereo forum about 12 years ago for $250 and was happy to pay it. I actually ordered equivalent parts from Mouser but haven't built it yet. One of the pots is locked up and I need to find someone who knows how to fix that before I build it.
A drop of penetrating oil to the pot's shaft, followed by patience, ought to free it up. The good news is that most Heathkits have very few parts that are "unobtainium", pots included. Good luck and thanks for commenting.
@@dtss_smudge This is a pot with 2 decks and it is kind of unobtanium in the sense that the two-knob set was designed for this shaft. I've gotten all kinda of advice on how to fix it, but I don't want to damage the carbon traces or anything. Are you sure the oil won't hurt anything if it gets into the pot?
I don't think a very small drop of oil would get to the pot traces or even damage them. RU-vidrs routinely spritz WD40 all over their pots. Proper contact cleaner should be able to clean up any excess. Sounds like the pot has nothing to lose by trying. Dual-deck pots with concentric shafts (ie two knobs, each controlling one deck) can be replaced by two pots particularly if one of the controls is rarely adjusted, but you're right that an original pot would likely have to come from a donor rig.
I built one of these in the early 1980s, just before Heath Kit closed. The case was Blue and white and different knobs. It is on my work bench and still functions perfectly.
So FYI you have an IP-2728, which is electrically identical to the IP-18 but restyled in what Chuck Penson (who wrote the book on this) defines as Heathkit's "Post New Look" industrial styling. These are great little supplies.
I would say sometimes you may get away with soldering old parts by using high heat to tint them, but some parts will fail with exposure to long heating.
The perfect "Re-Kit" would of course use all new components, If for no other reason lead length on components! BTW in the end I did wind up buying two new 2-watt resistors after the photo shoot.
My grandfather LCDR Arden Carpenter (K0AWP), was an avid Heathkit builder. He kits from the 1950s through the 1980s of just about everything Heathkit had to offer. He built the first color television and first microwave on the block when my mother was a child. He was an avid radio amateur and build numerous full stations of Heathkit. When I became a ham radio operator, he gave me all of his old equipment and other things he had around. One item was an unbuilt kit from the 1980's. I remember it being some kind poor man's mic booster or something like that. I remember at the time (early 2000's) I questioned if I should build it or keep it unbuilt as it was so rare. I decided to build it because, for people my age, very few can say they ever built an original Heathkit. I made many contacts with my grandpa's old equipment, and when he passed away I applied for his old callsign. Now I am K0AWP. I think about him often, and miss him.
Thanks, J.A. I would have loved to build a Heathkit TV. If only he, or I, knew, we'd have stashed a few unbuilt ones in a time capsule (aka attic). We thank your grandpa for building all those kits, as well as for his Naval service. Thank you for sharing a great story, and 73 from a fellow ham
Interesting me, but how messy does it look. OMG I have made a redesign of an IV-6 cloack purchased on ebay. Get the layout file, grab the soviet mde IC KR145iK1911. The IC is still available on ebya. Some german, bolgarian , romanian sellers have them in stock. Make a small neat clock then.
And most Heathkit test equipment is still as useful today as it was back then. Even "obsolete" test equipment (IG-57 I'm looking at you) is still useful to those restoring obsolete products. Thanks for the comment.
This video was my backhand rant against "audiophiles" willing to pay absurd money for unbuilt(!) amplifiers, looking for that mythical "warm tube sound", thinking that the best audio comes from vintage electrically leaky paper amp-stage-coupling capacitors which will cause the tubes to red-plate and burn your house down....Oh, and thanks for the comment!
Back in the 60's and 70's My father was in the Airforce working in Photo Reconnaissance developing film from the SR-71 and U-2 Spy Planes. From '73 to '76 we lived in England where he was stationed at RAF Alconbury. He wanted to to be stationed at Fairchild AFB when we returned to the United States. This required he "Cross-Trained" into Electronics/Avionics, as Fairchild only had a KC-135 Air Refueling Wing, and a B-52 Bomber Squadron. He used many Heathkit Test Equipment Kits to start learning Electronics prior to Avionics Technical School. Towards the end of the time in England he ordered a Heathkit Color Television Kit, and assembled it. I believe it was called a "GR-2000". He ordered the 120V/60HZ version to bring back to the US and use when we returned. This meant it could not be operated or tested until then. I was a small kid and was fascinated watching him build it, and developed my own passion for Electronics. He did not order the console enclosure, and instead chose to build one from Oak Pallet Wood. Unfortunately during transport from England to the United States, the the rear of the CRT Picture Tube was damaged, and he needed to replace it. He did all the Calibrations/Alignments and we used the TV for many years after. I can still remember the circuit boards containing the potentiometer adjustments for the various channels. I become obsessed with Electronics from grade school on, building various Radio Shack kits, and owned many many Radio Shack 100 in 1, 300 in 1 electronic experiment kits and later other similar products. During my 7th grade, I "drooled" over a Heathkit Catalog, and asked for an Analog Breadboard Trainer kit, and Digital Breadboard Trainer Kit which I assembled over the next few day. I also got an "IC Timers" Project Kit, and "Op Amp" Project Kit with them. I soon completed the projects included and took "Continuing Education Units" Tests included and received Heath Kit Certificates for both. Soon after, a friend of my Father gave me an assembled Heathkit Oscilloscope and other Heathkit Test Equipment furthering my passion. Other items he gave me which I still wish I had was a 1940's Heathkit Catalog and Radio Shack Catalog. It was very interesting to see the products from that era. I continued my studies in Electronics and later Computers for the remainder of my Jr.High and High School Education. I took Electronics Class all Junior Year, and during my Senior Year was a "TA" (Teacher's Assistant) at my High School for the Electronics Instructor, and also was accepted into a "Vocational Skills Center" which I traveled to each day and filled 3 of the remaining 5 classes. I was disappointed when I first started attending the Vocation Skills Center, as the topics covered were very basic! The Instructor saw my advanced knowledge and took me aside and said, I will give you the tests for course curriculum and determine where I should begin further study. I took test after test, and occasionally he would help clarify any areas that needed any explanation. after a short time I came in expecting another written test and was told "That's it!, those were all the Test for the 2 year Curriculum!" I was given "Free Range" to explore anything else I wanted, and was given access to "Microprocessor Trainers', A Heathkit Robot, and a Stock Room full of Electronic Parts, Components, Analog and Digital IC's, all donated by Local Technology Businesses. I was like "A Kid in a Candy Store!" Occasionally The Vocational Skills Center would have an "Open House" at night for Parents to attend and see what each of the various programs (Auto Mechanics, Welding, Food Services, Computers, Machining) were working on. During these, the Electronics Program would have several tables setup with the various projects, where the majority were Mine! By Graduation I was well on my way to many years working within the Fields of Electronics, Computers and Networking. My Jobs included, Computer/Network Shop and Field Technician. Data Automation Manager for a Squadron at Fairchild AFB in charge of all Computer, Network, and POS Systems for 32 Facilities including 4 Dining Facilities, 2 Lodging Operations, and other functions. I also was tasked with designing a complete MIS System and Network and getting it implemented, as well as Operations of several Main Frame Computer Systems. I also simultaneously joined the Air National Guard at Fairchild and attended nearly a year of Avionics Technical School, Graduating with a 97.8% Average through the entire School. I returned to work as an Avionics Guidance and Control Technician on the fleet of KC-135 Air Refueling Tankers. I later taught Electronics & Computer/Networking Classes at ITT Technical Institute for 4 Years. Following that I worked as an Electronics Technician for SEL (Schweitzer Engineering Laboratories) Troubleshooting and Repairing sophisticated Microprocessor Controlled Power Generation and Distribution Equipment built there for use throughout our Nation's Power Grid, and in other Countries. This Lifelong Passion was all setoff by the "Spark" resulting from those experiences watching my Father and the "Heathkit" products he built and learned from. I still have vivid memories of the small envelopes and packages containing the components used, and the detailed instructions for assembly. The smell of hot solder and flux as I carefully constructed the kits, and the joy and satisfaction of a fully operational item when completed. I really miss the days of getting the latest Heathkit, and Tandy/Radio Shack Catalogs and flipping each page deciding on what I really wanted to buy next. Going to the local Radio Shack store to buy tools, components, perfboards, for my latest projects....
I certainly have my share of peeves regarding the "new" (21st century) Heathkit.com. They've been around about 10 years with little to show for it. I stand by my opinion that their GC-1006 is one of their better kits, and replicates the 20th century kit-building experience decently. This video is also my attempt as replicating that experience, perhaps in reverse... As far as the GC-1006's price, if all you want is a digital clock, Walmart's got you covered for ten bucks. You're paying for the experience. Adjusted for inflation, the GC-1006 is far less expensive than the GC-1005 was. Anyway, I do appreciate your watching and commenting!
@@dtss_smudge Might be their best kit but that's like comparing a liquid turd to a solid turd, I don't want either but if I had a choice I would choose the solid turd. Also, Amazon has DIY clock kits for $5. I didn't even have to search that hard to find it.
Nice video. A while ago I saw a craigslist ad for a Heathkit IO-4510 scope for $50. Dual channel. I was messing with building tube amps for guitar playing at the time and wanted a scope to testing. I went to buy it and upon power on test by the former owner something broke. It would not power on. He was the orignal builder, but didn't want to mess with it further and gave it to me for free. Upon bringing it home it was a single diode 1n4001 or maybe 4003 that had blown. The PSU caps were OK but I replaced them just the same due to them being original. I went and purchased an expensive 20kv rated DMM probe for about $50. The last such item in stock at Frys at the time. I seem to recall changing the voltage regulator circuit built from discrete transistor arrangement to a 7505(I think). Worked well, but I ran into a block while calibrating it. A trimmer capacitor for the vertical trace circuit which is broken. It turns but does not make any change on the trace. For some reason too they made it super hard to fix because the cap is under the massive stepper switches. I had to get a super long length non-conductive screwdriver just to even attempt to adjust it only to find it was really mushy when adjusted and finally the top portion fell apart. Sadly, there's no way to replace that cap without major surgery. I'll have to desolder 25 pins of the switch to even get my hand in there to remove the old part much less position a new one. I still have the scope gathering dust. My own electronics hoarding. I might get around to repairing it one day. I think one of the reasons I never did though other than the location was being unable to find the same type trimmer cap. It's been probably a dozen years now since I shelved that scope. I noted recently though that someone selling Heath replacement parts. Maybe I can get that part now... I might revisit this scope.
The 1980s IO-4### series scopes succeeded the 1970s IO-1##. Nice scope, especially just before Heathkit started really cheapening out their test equipment (IG-5282, IB-5281, etc I'm looking at you). The vertical compensation trimmer caps that appear to have failed you aren't critical, they're just in parallel with the input attenuator resistors. Unless shorted, they should not prevent a waveform from displaying. In fact, most quality scope probes have long had such trimmers built into them. Your IO-4510 certainly deserves a new life. Thanks for sharing its story.
@@dtss_smudge I really went all out at the time. I scratch built a 4505 scope calibrator. Made a 1:1 PCB and everything but I reworked the 5v regulator which uses discrete transistor regulator circuit to use a normal 75xx . 7505 probably. I made it into a tank compared to the kit version I've seen. The power transformer is I think over sized but was probably what I found in a local electronics / surplus shop here in Houston. The logic chips were cheap at maybe a dolllar or two each. Was a fun build. I forget what I was doing in the calibration steps of the scope, but I was probably using the 4505 I built in lieu of something more expensive. I am sure that trimmer was actually broken. I want to say the whole top came off so it was open maybe. I know it was a major road block to calibrating it per the manual.
I believe that the purpose of the isolation transformer is to isolate the hot line's reference to ground/neutral, which means you could run your ground wire to your output plugs and that won't show a voltage potential between either of your two live wires which you could check with your resistance meter with the unit off, or check AC voltage between the original ground and your two isolated lines with it on . I think the main reason you'd do this is to allow static electricity in/on a device to still be able to dissipate to ground, but I haven't really seen any videos discussing that. Same as your disclaimer goes, I'm just a guy on the internet who has never even hooked up a dim bulb tester (but I do understand the purpose of one)r, so take all of this with a grain of salt haha
The isolation transformer is there to isolate *both* hot and neutral. In the US at least, ground is bonded to neutral at the first disconnect (ie. the breaker panel). Also, once you've isolated the device under test, take care with how you power (um, ground) your test equipment. A case for battery-operated DMMs, scopes etc Thanks for commenting.
Thank you! You just save me hours of research! I have owned one since 1978 (serial number 138107) and a none working one for spare parts (serial number 05220).Both collect dust for almost 40 years? I retired last year and buy a new workbench, plenty of new and old trusty "Toys". Since my IO-102 was the first instrument I own, he stay on my vintage shelf until I die!
Glad you found the video helpful. Other than the power transformer and the CRT, pretty much everything else in the scope is repairable/replaceable. Good luck, and thanks for commenting!
Not 100% sure what you're referring to, but if you mean the 4-position white screw terminal block I use to wire the AC side, search Amazon for "terminal block white screw terminal". Not really quick disconnect, you have to loosen or tighten the terminal screws. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
G,day from Sydney Australia. I've just recently made a dim bulb. Want to set up V and Amp meters. Want variac and DC controller. You set my mind straight; there (Chinese LED) are a monitor not an accurate meter. 💫🇦🇺
"we're going to be horizontal.. promise" really made me smile. Woah... it's so cool that you've still got it... all I've got left from the 1970s is a broken toy spaceship. ;)
Great video! I have the equivalent, mint condition with manual, Heath/Schlumberger SO-107A which was a factory wired unit. My father bought it back in 1973 for his FM broadcast radio station. I went through the whole thing as you did, replacing all the old electrolytic caps and some resistors mainly in the power supply section. Not the best 5 MHz scope but good enough for audio and low frequency RF work. Sorry to say I will be putting it up on eBay soon as its time to part with it. I hope someone can use it and not e-waste it.
Obviously, 5Mhz was good enough for a FM station! Make sure to mention on your listing that it was factory and refurbished, Include pics of what must be awesome factory wiring! Thanks for the comment!
Friendly notice : The standard voltage in USA and canada is 120 Vac not 110Vac. This thrue for more than 50 years now. ( See NEC and canadian code CEC).
I'll take your word regarding the NEC, but you got me curious. So I went back to the original manuals, and the specs for the IT-12 (dated 1962) called for 117VAC 50-60cps (!) and for the T-4 (dated 1958) was also 117 Vac 50-60 "cycle". Go figure.
...and I just realized you were commenting on the IP-18, not the T4/IT-12. The IP-18 (1968) called for "105 to 125 [assuming wired that way] 50-60 Hz" So it was more forgiving.
@@dtss_smudge Thanks, but I made a mistake when writing. If you had watched the related video on my channel You might have noticed, it is using Numitron tubes (IV-9). Sorry for confusion. I have many on video old things made new. Give it a try.
I always lusted after one of these! If that’s the word , I even made my own using ,a 6 inch VCR97 ex WD ,I got it working but I had issues with generating 4000v for final anode I was 15 years old at the time, it was a bit dangerous, anyway I got a apprenticeship in Tv trade could always borrow one, I ended up with a Telequipement single beam , but a few years later I was made redundant, and treat myself to an Hitachi V513 50 Mhz I earned. A small fortune repairing Video Recorders
You, I and every other hobbyist of our generation. The 21st Century healthkit reincarnation has been, to say the least, a disappointment. Thanks for the comment.
As a matter of fact I have a Kill-A-Watt, but I needed something dedicated to the variac/isolation/dimbulb.... Thanks for taking the time to comment! !
Yes, but perhaps you're commenting on the thumbnail variac picture, not on the rest of the project which has the isolation xfrmr right next to it. Thanks nevertheless for taking the time to comment.
They apparently did make some Variacs with isolation built in - they used a separate secondary coil. The one here is an "autoformer" that is definitely not isolated alone, though going through the separate isolation transformer accomplishes the same thing for much less than hunting one of those isolated various down haha.
Interesting, I have one I built in the 1970s, forget exactly when. I repackaged mine with a 5A AC meter a variac and isolation transformer. Now that you mentioned resistor overheating it I'll have to check mine. Have not looked inside in years.
I have a more compact and refined version of isolation and dim bulb, The Super Isolation transformer I have is a huge 500VA continuous power compact one that came with dual outputs made by Elsund, it has a ground center tap isolated from the mains/chassis ground on the outputs. I modified mine to have a switch for virtual ground so I can completely lift even the virtual ground on the load completely, I added Power switch and a Neon bulb on the transformer as well as a huge MOV for spike protection. my transformer already came with a resettable fuse 240V 6,3A (1500watt) that pops out if you load it too much for extended time but I added extra protection around it too. The dim Bulb addon could not be more compact and I have never seen any design on that like mine. I have re-built a single to dual outlet adapter to have your current limit output that goes through the lamp that is placed on the second output of it instead, the size of this addon is smaller than a Gameboy. you just plug it into any outlet and pick a bulb and it´s ready. I have this plugged into one outlet of the isolation tranny and if I want to disable current limit I simply move the plug to the other output. if I want to use a variac I just plug this into any of these outlets only when I need it instead. mine is big (up to 2000Watt) or 8 amps 260Volt. My version of isolation/current limit is the most compact and simple I have seen on youtube and it is always ready on my bench without taking up space barely more than a 2Litre pack of milk on the table with the current limiter included. The tools are essential to have for any technician of both Tube and modern equipment but I see the trend pretty much everyone make these so big and bulky it is even hard to have it available as a part of your bench at all times. I mean as long as it fits your desires it´s no problem but space is also precious around your workspace :)
My greatest challenge seems to be finding good meter-paper-scale-design software for Mac, to re-label stock ammeters to 0-130 VAC and 0-3A. The actual electronics for extending ammeter ranges and converting them to voltmeters is straightforward Think resistors in parallel or series, respectively. Oh, and rectifiers for AC...
Warning: The BK Precision 1655A is a screaming piece of dangerous junk. No solder mask on the PCB. 1940's circuit design and parts. Horrible construction quality. Useless soldering iron controller. I had three brand new arrive DOA, from a reputable OEM supplier.
I had a quick look at this B&K, and putting aside any quality concerns, it seems to have things you don't need (soldering iron temp control) and not things you do need (current limiting)... Thanks for the comments!
@@dtss_smudge Probably, the mindset is that overcurrent is supposed to trigger fuses/breakers, NOT be limited - When not in a lab/workshop environment and attended by a competent amateur or professional, a current limiter can cause an accident rather than prevent one (especially if you allow limiting it to an amp or three, as you would need on a 200...500VA capable supply - plenty enough to start fires while keeping any fuse or breaker from interfering).
I found mine about 20 years ago. Like all the others, it had burned up inside and was no longer working, but the meter movement was still fine. I'm amazed that this design ever made it out of Benton Harbor. I redesigned the circuit, changing resistor values so that it would work the same, but not overheat anything while not requiring anything above 2 W. Sorry, I don't recall the new values. It's been working fine ever since then. Someone on ebay is selling Heath upgrade packages to fix these. I've always wondered whether these just maintain the old design with higher wattage resistors or a more thoughtful approach that dissipates less power.
@jadney : You're referring to the d8apro.com IM-103 rebuild kit. I looked into it, and it's not a bad kit but does not replace every component, just most of them. Also, as I show, all parts are available on DigiKey for ~<$20. Their kit does not actually modify the design in any way, other than the two power resistors replacing the Heath 2W ones. Also, if you expect to always have a Variac and decent multimeter handy, One can rebuild the kit without the CAL/NORM switch (perhaps convert it to a simple ON/OFF switch), drop a number of parts and forgo the inferior self-calibration. The manual even shows the simplified schematic.
Great video. I built many Heathkits back in the day. I still have my IM-103 and it still works. I think I built it back in '74 or '75. I will definitely replace the 50-year-old electrolytic and I like the idea of a grounded line cord. BTW, how did you strain-relief it? 3 wire cords are thicker. Did you drill the entry hole for a larger Heyco? I'll also replace the 2W carbon resistors with 5W wirewound, though neither looked like they suffered heat damage. Also, mine included the fuse.
@mikescott58 You perceptively noted that I kinda did not show the line cord entry. The proper way to deal with a new flat line cord would be to taper-drill out a larger hole for a proper "sqeeze"-type (Heyco?) line cord strain relief, as I did for my signal tracer video. For now I did not want to modify the case, so I used a couple of zip ties on either side and a bit of silicone. Were I to sell one, I'd go back and do the right thing. Thanks for commenting!
Yep, they blow, I've restored mine as well and improved it too, the electrolytic was temperature-sensitive and drifted in time, it was the first component to change, resistors change value as well here.
You picked my curiosity. So I buzzed it out. Yup! The first 74HC04 inverter (pins 1&2) buffer the raw TXCO can's output so it can drive the remaining five inverters in parallel, whose outputs in parallel are fed to a 220 ohm resistor (presumably for current limiting/short protection) and on to the module output. That did not occur to me as I was biased to assume that TTL outputs tied together (that were not otherwise tristate/opencollector) was a circuit error. But of course not if as in this case, all the outputs are guaranteed in the same state. Thanks for the tip!
I have one I use as an everyday go-to power source. I like it except for the current limiting scheme. The output current goes through the wiper of the current limit adjustment potentiometer. The potentiometer was not designed to handle this much current through the wiper nor to force all the power dissipation to be only in the portion of the resistive element between the wiper and the end. Thus, it is easy to damage the potentiometer and get erratic current limiting below spec. I haven't figured out any easy way to correct this. I was hoping you may have found a modification to correct this problem.
Not a problem for me, as I use it intermittently, and almost always with the current pot set at max. I imagine it would not be too difficult to totally re-engineer it into the same enclosure with a more modern design and parts...
Well, I restored a bunch of Heathkit IM-103 upgraded to 3-wire, and I snarfed those 18AWG "flat cross-section" cords from a bunch of old fluorescent shop lights. I'll do a video on those eventually...
Well, I restored a bunch of Heathkit IM-103 upgraded to 3-wire, and I snarfed those 18AWG "flat cross-section" cords from a bunch of old fluorescent shop lights. I'll do a video on those eventually...
The banana jacks are original from the Heathkit, just cleaned up. The line cord strain reliefs are jameco.com Part No. 182351. As far as the line cords themselves, I actually addressed that in a clip I cut during editing, but have now published. Thanks for commenting!
