Welcome, I am VTArchiver. This channel was born from a simple thing I noticed that some content I was personally interested in fell through the cracks of the Clipper army so I decided to do it myself. Since I currently don't speak any other languages besides English the videos here will only be in English and I will not be translating, sorry about that. Feedback is encouraged so speak your mind just try to be civil about it.
Old kits used to be very organised. No numbers needed, all the bodies were together, all the heads together, all the legs, arms, weapons etc. These new sprues are simply so 3rd party models can't be used with their models (yes GW is that petty)
They're built to maximize the parts on the minimal number of frames. They use some sort of computer algorithm to fit as much as possible on there. Sequential parts are usually for the core of whatever unit you're making, with decorations and heads in a different part of the sequence. Sometimes, if you're lucky they'll be mostly together, or at least near one another, but sometimes? Eh.
I need some context here. Has she been wanting to play this game for years or something? Ive never seen someone so excited for a game thats been out for over 20 years
Basically she wanted to play halo for a while after debut but a gen mate played it first so she held off and waited. on top of that she played a small bit when she was young so she was excited to properly play it, combined with her just being normally a hyper person and you get this.
Dont forget to wash your minis before you paint! I like to use some simple green and water in an old tupperware container. A capful or two at most is all you need. Throw them in then pull them out and let air dry. Use some blue rubber gloves and enjoy painting. Dont be afraid to mess up. Strip and try again if you dont like. Thinning your paints on a homemade wet pad helps too. But above all else. Its your minis. Dont get discouraged folks if your painting isnt showroom quality. Youll get there in time.
I literally thought they were messing with me and didn't include one part because of the bad layout. Turns out, I just couldn't see the tiny tiny part on the sprue.
My issue with GW, and one of the many reasons I'm not into the minis, is that they started making tons of the minis incompatible with others in the same range by making them as few parts as possible to make them as easy as possible to assemble. It makes them almost or completely impossible to kit bash them.
I went to a shop one Saturday after I got off work, it was a 2 and half hour bus ride. Bought about $140 worth of paint. I wanted some hand paints for gunpla and other eventually resin figured. I should went straight home and ordered Tamiya or bought some army color paint packs from Amazon. I wish I knew how expensive these were in bulk.
GW fanboys got used to how awful their kits are, and they got a whole lot worse since 8th and the puch for everything monopose that require every minies to use the exact leg on the exact troso and arms.
@@VTArchiver8571 she doesn't need a 3d printer, lol. As if one of the Phase sad girls could even figure out how to use one. All she needs is tell audience to send her figurines to paint and do a series of streams where she paints watcher made models.
I've recently used some of the pro acryl stuff, harder to find but very good so far - especially the white was really nice compared to other brands I've tried
Honestly, Citadel isn't bad, the pigmentation is pretty great, but they're overpriced and their stupid paint pots suck. If they were sold in dropper bottles I wouldn't have a problem with them at all. But I also heard they changed the formula lately, so you can't even use them for paintmatching your old armies, that's a big red flag for Citadel.
I mean Vallejo changed their Game Color range too lately, which also stinks because I use the blue religiously. I understand why, most of the Game Color range sucked, but still it's such a wide scale change for whatever reason.
Oh hey I remember that we sacrificed a couple people that stream and even lost one of the ritual leaders. Best part had to be everyone who was dead ended there chat messages with a 💀 for the rest of the stream.
Some people will say citadel is very meh but if ye find a FLGS they'll sell the pots for much cheaper and they do have some really nice paints (Khorne Red, Evil Suns Scarlet, the Fang, etc). Plus everyone has Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, and Reikland Fleshshade. Their contrast paints are also really good, though Army Painter has been stepping up their game with the new speed paints. If they do have Vallejo, AK, or Army Painter at the FLGS, then definitely do a chart comparison, especially for the basic colors. There's some brands that are a bit more expensive but you do get more out of em based on mL, mainly TwoThinCoats and Pro-Acryl.
Tell me about it. Touch up paints for my auto and motorcycle hobbies can be like $20 to $70 USD for a one ounce vial depending on the color. Paint prices are no joke 🤑.
It's expensive and nobody likes the design of the container. That's why you only buy Citadel technical paint and nothing else. For base colors, Army Painter, AK and Valejo work as well and cost half the price.
dont buy geedubs paint EVER -idot me that bought too much overpriced gw paint also just buy cheap paintbrush sets from your hardware store because they work just as well as an expensive brush
>some better paints >citadel (except for that one yellow, the glossy dark bronze and nuln oil, that are also out of stock almost 24/7 at lgs) Pick one kani, pick one!
For sprays i like Vallejo. For contrasts Army Painter or Duncan's 'Two Thin Coats' line. Both of these have a colour conversion chart with GW's own line of contrast paints so its very easy to get what you need. If you are getting Army Painter, get the re-released second line since their first batch has some re-activation issues with water apparently. For plastic glue, Tamiya green extra thin plastic cement. For resin superglue, Gorilla Super Gel is the standard that all the Ork mekbosses in my FLGS swear by. For gap fillers/liquid greenstuff alternative, Vallejo Plastic Putty is excellent. Its powdered marble in poxy (i think) so just squeeze into gap and wipe away the excess. Leave to dry for a few hours. For basing, I swear by AK's terrain paste. Be sure to store in fridge if you have excess. Other tips : - get a wet palette asap - if dry brushing, do not wipe away excess on kitchen paper. It will absorb too much water and give you the undesirable chalky finish. Wipe it on a smooth plastic surface instead like an old hobby mat or some old laminated covers that you don't need. Niche fun things to try : - Vallejo has a line of fluorescent paints that are fun to play with. You can mix them up with normal paint to make details like eyes and fire effects pop a bit. - They also sell a metallic medium that can be mixed with contrast paint that is fun to play with if you want a newly waxed car candy-like finish. A reason why GW paint sucks is not only due to the lid design that encourages waste, but its the lower volume of paint inside compared to other brands, and the bottle's surface to air ratio once opened. There is generally less paint in the bottle so which makes it easier to cross that dryness threshold that makes it impossible to revive, as well as the bottles being much wider so more air is in contact with the paint so the spoiling process is sped up that much faster. I would recommend everyone to invest in some cheap dropper bottles and disposable plastic funnels, and transfer their GW paint into these bottles once its opened.
@@VTArchiver8571 Oh and a few more just came to mind. 1. Thinning your paint with water is fine, though my commission painters swear by using airbrush thinner for some troublesome colours where consistency is an issue. Its a bit of a luxury tip, but 500ml of thinner is not that expensive, and only a few drop is used at a time. 2. Find your preferred Nuln Oil/Agrax alternative. Shades are great, but GW recently nerfed their shade paint by reducing the bottle size while increasing its price. Furthermore it has been reformulated as well, and I've only heard bad things about this new formulation... Personally I went Ron Swanson when I heard the news and stocked up a drawer of Nuln Oil when the news came about so I'm good for 5 years at least. But it will be good to look for alternatives if you don't have access to the old stuff. Duncan's 'Two Thin Coat' line has a very good alternative apparently, and I have friends who tried it and liked it. Aside from that Army Painter has a similar product as well. In any case, good luck to Shiina, I wish her the best on her hobby journey.
Would recommend avoiding Army Painter myself, their paints tend to be cheap and not as vibrant as Citadel or Vallejo. Pro Acryl also makes some of the best base color paints, their bold titanium white is the best white paint out there.
@@quandalesquigly I 100% agree with bold titanium white. I have a Star Phantom army and bold titanium white is the GOAT. I wrote a 2nd comment that mentioned avoiding the first line of army painter contrast due to re-activation issues with water and to find nuln oil/agrax alternatives since the new formulation is bad and more expensive, but I think it got eaten up by YT.
Citadel paint is mega over priced and the containers are wasteful. The Army Painter, Vallejo, AK Interactive. So many good brands with user friendly packaging and pricing.
@VTArchiver8571 it's mainly due to four things: 1) Better price/oz than GW 2) Dropper bottles >>>> paint pots 3) Comparable quality. Better whites/yellows esp. GW metallics are a bit better, but not by a huge margin. 4) Massive color library, including analogs of colors GW no longer produces like the original Goblin Green.
Army painter has good filter(contrast and the like) paints. That and picking up their matt black and white is good for the basics. Beyond that looking into two things coats may be nice since it is a smaller selection with good coverage, even on the more finnaky colors.
