Nope - goal during this video was to get it mostly up (past the halfway point), then lower it again. There was still some antennas to put on and cables to run. Ran the tower up for good a month later. imgur.com/a/pD7jOoL
As others mentioned a gin pole or an A frame with a pulley at the top would increase your mechanical advantage. You would be pulling nearly directly up when the tower was horizontal with about 200 lb force. Then when the middle of the tower was up about 16", the A frame would fall away but the force needed to continue hoisting would be reduced by then to about 200 lbs.and diminishing as the tower goes vertical. Another technique is to use a compound pulley system. Instead of attaching the line to the middle of the tower and a pulley at the tree, anchor one end of the line at the tree. Feed the line to a pulley at about 1/4 of the tower height, then to another pulley at 3/4 the tower height, then back to a third pulley at the tree and finally to your rope come-along. It will take 3 pulleys and twice as much rope. The total force needed to start lifting the tower (and hence pulling on the tree) will be that 500 to 700 lbs, but the tension on the line at the come-along will be half that. You just have to pull twice as much rope. An advantage of this method is that pulling from two places on the tower is less likely to buckle the tower. I've heard of that happening, especially with aluminum towers, when others tried what you did.
A chain or etc. between two of those trees approx. 90 degrees from the pulley, with the come-along in the middle of the chain, would greatly increase the lifting advantage over the single-point pull. And the higher up the tree the better. Maybe standing in the back of a pickup truck to get the extra height.
The longer it's in suspension the more dangerous it becomes to the poor guy pushing it with boards and this guy cranks slow slow and barks orders vs concentrating on cranking
It obviously can handle 500lbs so why I he just slowly counting n cranking calling out 200 to 400 lbs and going so slow like if it cannot handle the weight when it can
Until we cranked it up the first time, we didn't know how much weight would be at the crank. Anything we observed at the crank is doubled at the tree (2:1 pulley setup). We learned that when we get close to 500lbs at the crank, or 1000lbs at the tree, we started to pull the tree down instead of the tower up. So for this setup, we needed my friend to push up during the early stages to take load off the tree. He has a lot more leverage at the end of the tower than the cable does halfway up. Also, at no point was he under the tower, but rather off to the side. Slide the board as the crank lifts the tower. The closer the tower gets to 90, the less force on the crank and tree.
10:45 "I still don't understand train signaling" is the best summary of Factorio's midgame I've ever heard. Protip: The simple lesson is that if you have a piece of track where trains can run both directions, you need chain signals whenever you enter that piece of track. That prevents that specific type of deadlock situation. The problem is that the intersection didn't have a chain signal, so the inbound train entered the intersection without a place to go, blocking the intersection for the outbound train. The bigger protip is that this also counts for straight track that connects to an intersection. Other solutions include making the crossing section larger, or putting multiple regular signals (with plenty of space) behind the loading station, so trains will sit and wait behind the station instead of hogging up the rest of the track.
Learned a lot here. I have a 2001 DS, I get 16 MPH with 12" wheels. I would like get up to 23 MPH and have a RUN/TOW switch, which would require a Harness upgrade, 400A Controller and maybe a Motor upgrade.
wow i cant belive noone said a word on what they did wrong in the biggest way.... omg .... IT WASNT WINTER .. no ice storm or snow and below zero temps... dang it guys u know the rules .. hahhahahha
It's all about length and leverage. The higher your liftpoint on the tower, the less force you need. At the start of the video, we lift at the top of the tower, taking advantage of the 65 foot "lever", then we lift about midway and that doubles the amount of force needed. The angle of the rope also was an impediment to us. When we redo it, we're going to pass through the tree instead of pulling against the tree.
@@armchairtechnician7725 I agree, I just wonder how much of a concrete base I need for my tilt over/ crank up tower. I'm thinking a lower pull point would put more stress on the base as well.
@@theboogeyman826 If you can find out the make/model of your tower, you should be able to find the engineering diagram for it. They specify the base dimensions in concrete. There's two numbers - lift height and lift point/pull point. Where you connect on the tower is the list or pull point. That should be a decent height from the bottom, say halfway up. The rule of thumb is the higher the better - though on mine I'd want to avoid using the topmost section (it is much thinner and probably would not support the weight of the tower). The lift height is how high your cable/rope/pulley is in relation to the tower. In my case, lift height at the three was 16ft. But my connection at the tower (lift point) was around 30. The lift height is important for how much force your winch needs. The lift point determines how much force is applied at the tower. In general, the middle should be fine. The extreme top might be thinner metal, and if you put it at the bottom, you might be producing thousands of pounds of force. To sum all this up - I'm not an engineer, but for most towers, as long as your lift/pull point is not within the bottom or top 15% of the tower length, a tilt over tower should be able to handle the stress, no matter where your lift point is. To me, the bigger concern is the rating of any pulleys, the cable, or your winch.
@@armchairtechnician7725 I sure appreciate the feed back. Mine is actually is homemade design. Two section crank up. The top, or inside section is rohn 25g. The guy built a bottom or outside section for it to crank up and down in. Hinge base is homemade as well. Cranks down to 32 feet minimum. Max around 55 feet or so. I didn't get to ask how much concrete he used before he passed away.
Did you have a pulley at the Tree? You should have used a system of pulleys (Block & Tackle) to get a force multiplier. It would go slower but the Crank Ratchet would have less force on it.
@texas2wheeler446. Just checked back and saw this. Despite the comment below, not harbor freight. Tools used are in the video description, this is a Maasdam 3/4 Ton Rope Puller with 100' of 1/2" rope. amzn.to/3zZ0BaQ It's rated for 3/4 ton, and I had a scale rated for 1 ton. Every piece was rated at least 1 ton, and no part of the system would have experienced forces anywhere approaching that. At peak, we had 400lbs on the rope, which would translate to 800lbs on the tree.
Thanks for the Tower Video, check out mine with the Birds Eye view at 100ft- LOL, I hit all your buttons , and became a new channel friend. Have a great week, 21 in S.C.
You should look up a "gin pole". I routinely lifted and lowered the 30’ mast on my sailboat alone using a gin pole and a self tailing winch on the cabin top. Will greatly reduce the load on the lines. It keeps the sling angles half of what you are doing.
Callum, not a derrick. We sailboaters always called it a gin pole. It is a pole that mounts (temporarily) to the mast and holds the lifting line well above the mast to allow for better sling angles and far more mechanical advantage especially at the parallel to the ground to about 45° angle portion of the lift. After that, the top of the mast and winch distance from the base gave a good pull. Once erect and the stays are attached the gin pole is removed and stowed.
ROPE ! I helpped a buddy lift his 75' tower. We chained his jeep to the bottom of a tree and used his jeep winch and a winch pole to raise it. Quick easy and alot safer.
I tried to buy this very model tower from a local SK, many locals came to help get it down and we struggled for days to get the sections apart and eventually had to give up. I was surprised how each section sits down into the one below, leaving the joints facing up to absorb the 30 yrs of WV weather it had stood through. Sadly the project was abandoned and the tower was eventually cut up and sent to scrap. We were able to get it apart into two sections but that was separating the top 2 leaving about 40' in one piece, just no way to had transported it! I did buy the TH-7DX beam and HAM-IV rotor that was on the tower, maybe one day I will realize the ham dream and get that beam up! But for now the idea of a 60ft free standing is just gonna have to be just that, a dream!
the strain on the tree is TWICE THE INDICATED STRAIN. a straight pull would be better passing the line thru the tree instead of using it as an anchor, Woody
Also, I'll try this approach next time - passing the rope through the tree and down the hill. One advantage of having it within site of the tower is that you can synchronize pushing the board with the person pulling. But if we can make a sleeve in the crook of the tree for the cable, we won't have to worry as much about the tree's load rating.
You need to be pulling from a higher point. Most of your pulling force is going thru the tower straight into the ground. You can put some sort of "A" frame back farther and lift over it to get that height. Nice tower.
@@armchairtechnician7725 You dont need to go higher on the tree. Just build an A-Frame Derrik out of pipe or 16 ft 2x6 or 4x4 . It would be like lifting from 16 ft higher up that tree...then the derrik falls away when the tower is about half way up. Look up "A-Frame Derrik" You can make one out of pipe or 2x6 wood.
@@AvocaSingleTrack I found that any pull line greater than 45 degrees you're compressing the tower before lifting it. If you're up 16 ft, then connect 16-20 ft up the tower from the pivot point. I have 2 hinge over towers, home brew 73 W9DLP
For the note-taking and hand writing recognition, can that all be used OFF line. (Hoping the device can function totally offline.) Thank you for making this video.
why didnt you do away with the computer to controll nothing but charging that just a problem waiting to happen i dont see no reason to have that.cause the charger is not a automatic it dont maintain the battery.i bought automatic maintainer it can sit there a year an the battery pack ready to go..if you use battery charger with these once it shuts off it want start back so why have a problem on the cart
I have some problem with organizing books, it does not synch with calibre and i had to classify by folder, It would be great capability of tag classification, naming pdf with metadate like mendeley.
Simple suggestion for the problem with accidently pressing that button on the bottom: can't you just set the screen orientation to upside-down and turn the device around? This way that button would be on the top instead of being under your palm.
I am most interested in making notes while reading. based on what i watched, i saw you could do it on pdf. I didnt hear mention about being able to do it on epub. I also would like to know about margin spacing and line spacing features. if there isnt much by default can this be adjusted.
Yes, you can take notes on epub and all the other formats it can load in the latest firmware. Also, margin spacing and line spacing are the most basic features an e-reader should have. Surely boox devices have it.
I'm a fan of A5 notebooks for writing. If you want to experiment that the size, pick up an A5 paper notepad somewhere (i like with what's call "dot grid" instead of ruled) and try writing on it. If you like that, then writing on the Nova 2 will be similar. The smaller size works great on my crowded desk.
I bought mine yesterday and the writing experience is quite different than here. It feels very unprecise, like it was starting to write 0,5 centimetre next to the pencil. Sometimes when I press a letter with the stylus, it turns out to a different one. As a note-taking device - a huge disappointment. I don't know, maybe I just get a refund.
have you calibrated the pencil? I had a similar problem when I started using it, but in my case the writing was 1 centimetre next to the stylus. Try to calibrate it again, it may help.
@@kkcuev2 It says that it needs to use standard mode or sth like that (it's not in English because it's not my mother tongue), and when I try to press Start, it doesn't do anything. It doesn't freeze but doesn't do anything either. The same with the other option on the left.
Thanks for the great review! Question about annotating books: can you handwrite notes on EPUB / MOBI files, in addition to PDFs? Or are handwritten notes only allowed on PDFs? And can the annotated file be exported to a different platform, preserving the notes? (Could I for instance export the annotated PDF file, with all my notes, and open it, say, on my desktop?
For EPUB/MOBI you can annotate, but it does not have an option to export. For PDFs, you can annotate and export that as a PDF. It has two options, one is "embed pdf", and the other is "save pdf". But to be perfectly honest, I'm not entirely sure what the difference is. I can open either export and edit/erase my annotations. You can transfer files to and from - they have a cloud sync service, and you can do any of the android ones (google drive, dropbox, onedrive), or it has a built in wifi webserver file transfer that is pretty nice.
