I want to share what I’ve learned over the years. Anything is possible if you try hard enough and cars are no different!
Throughout my life I learned a majority of my car knowledge from my family and from watching RU-vid videos. This channel is meant as a way to say thanks and pass on that information. If it wasn’t for them, I would have never experienced the joy of wrenching.
I “allegedly” fix cars because my friends, family and coworkers would always say to me “hey you know how to work on cars right?” I would respond with “allegedly”.
I’m obsessed with cars. Especially working on cars. My goal is create a data bank of knowledge where everyone can come to learn something new about wrenching.
You’ll see all types of cars. Daily’s, classics, race cars, broken cars, rust buckets, exotic cars, and everything in between.
Whether you have never touched a wrench or you are a master mechanic THIS channel is for you.
This theory was tested on the cheapest torque wrench money can buy, a harbor freight Pittsburgh click style wrench. And it didn’t really affect it at all. But this “myth” was still listed by the torque test channel as plausible because it depends on the torque wrench you’re using.
Not true. The wrench doesn't understand if you're tightening or loosening. It simply limits the torque you're applying. To loosen bolts, you're applying torque. It's the same as tightening. Of course only if it's bi-directional.
The wrench doesn't know if it's tightening a left hand thread or loosening a right hand threat. The spring inside feels the same force. It never made sense to me mechanically
I tried. It works just fine. Good video and information. Thank you for sharing 👍. Except that that is a 9v not a 12v, but for the purpose of testing it. it works with the 9v battery.
Thats why on a lot of equipment that I work on and on our personal vehicle I changed all the fuses to the ones that light up to let me know they are popped, sometimes they wont light up so i dont fully trust it but its easier on my back lol not having to lay back down like I was able to back then lol.
Wrong, two puller fans is all he needs. Pullers are more efficient than pushers anyways. It’s the covering of the entire radiator’s surface that he needs with two pullers in a single shroud… just like he said. It sounds like HE actually researched the problem correctly, unlike yourself, and now knows how to correct his problem, again, unlike yourself. A smart/intelligent man would be wise enough to simply look at 99.9% of vehicles out there that have electric fans and notice that they are ALL pullers and NOT pushers. Ya think the vehicle manufacturers know something that you don’t???😂
Those are such crap. Levixon or whatever it is. Mine dosent even work trying to torque a reverse thread. It only has the torque on right hand. Going to return
This highlights the difference in a backyard mechanic and a professional technician. You do not test for continuity of live circuits, with the fuse still installed you can get a false positive for continuity by detecting reverse through a complete circuit and the fuse is actually blown. You can pull the fuses and check for continuity, or most easily you can start the vehicle and turn on all the accessories then check for DC volts between chassis ground and both sides of the fuse.
@@Ha-42 No, because it's not just about having power available to the circuits. It's that the circuit can loop back around and give you a false positive. It's best to remove the fuse when using the continuity feature of a multimeter to check if a fuse is good. To check fuses without removing them, it's best to use a test light or DC voltage feature on multimeter. If test light lights on both sides of fuse, then fuse is good. If test light lights on only one side, then fuse is bad. If test light doesn't light on either side, then that tells you there's no power to the circuit and you need to turn it on to check it.
@@bernardocisneros4402 Unless the rest of the circuit is functionally just a closed loop of wire, that probably won't be an issue. The real issue here is an incomplete understanding of circuits and continuity. Taking the fuse out reduced the circuit to the fuse, your probes, and the multimeter, which is ideal.
@@jnharton You're right but it's much quicker with a test light and the vast majority of fuses are going to pass with a test light. The ones that don't pass, I remove and check visually and with ohmmeter.
Hi! Can I run 24 volts from 30 to 87 and 12 volts on the trigger (85/86) switch? I'm planning to install a 24v airhorn in my car and I just bought a 24V boost up converter.
My trigger wire to the starter isn’t getting power. I have power to the relay on one leg from the battery. I have power on the other leg from key switch but it’s not going to the transfer leg. Please help. Could the ground leg on the relay not be grounded? Don’t know how to test for ground
You have to power up 86 first from ,, let’s say yr battery, run a feed from yr bat through an inline fuse into yr switch then out of ur switch then to 86.
