Nice job. And on just the vice I'm looking to restore too. Looks like someone may have already worked on yours even if just for greasing and maintenence as mine has a split pin spring retention vs your two small screws tapped into the vice screw. That's a good idea I might copy!
Hello, I just purchased the same vintage spokeshave and discovered that one of the tangs are cracked off! is there a way of repairing and or welding it back onto the blade? ... please let me know. Thank you, dee
Hi, I see you problem there. Welding might be the best solution but welding is something I have never been confident enough to tackle. There are metal putties but I don't think they would be strong enough for something so small. Try some tool restoration forums as they are full of experts of which I am certainly not.
I have this same hatchet from the early 1980s. Does anyone know what type of steel they used? Is it forged? I figure there is no reason to buy a new hatchet, if this one still performs.
@@themancaveman it's a Vaughan Camp Axe made of 1080 high carbon. You can buy a new one for $42.26. They are identical. They are very high quality. Mine is 43-45 years old. There are zero chips or rolls in the blade edge. Mine just has a lot of rust. The handle on mine has a bit of dry rot, but it's still adhered very solidly.
@@themancavemanI just restored mine. It wasn't rusted as badly as yours. I don't have all your tools, or a workshop. After my divorce, I ended up in a 2 bedroom condo. I soaked the blade and handle overnight in WD-40. I sealed it with plastic wrap and a large Ziploc bag, and sealed it up with duct tape. Today, I took some coarse sandpaper to it to get most up the tough rust. I then applied more WD-40, and finished up with 00 steel wool. I should have watched your entire video first, because I do have several tough wire brushes. That would have made getting the rust off much easier. It's now clean of rust, and sharpened. I cleaned the old sheath 2 days ago, and let it dry. Today, I heated the sheath up slightly, and oiled it with grape seed oil. The only thing left to do, is seal up a long vertical split in the rubber handle. I haven't decided on the best adhesive to use yet. I love your video. That's excellent work. I think yours is an older model, because it looks slightly different. Mine is roughly 45 years old. My parents gave it to me after I graduated from college. I'm pushing 48. I remember using this hatchet on camping trips when I was 6 years old. It was my mom's.
@@themancavemancan you help me out with restoring my rubber handle? The handle on this hatchet is still glued very hard down to the metal shaft, so I'd rather leave that part alone. I have a small crack in the rubber though. I'm unsure of what type of glue to use to seal it. Since I don't know what kind of rubber it is, I don't want to try fusing it back together with heat. I have another hatchet where the handle came off. I need to restore the handle, and then adhere it back to the metal shaft. I'm unclear on this golf club handle method. If you could help me out with a list of materials for the handles, I would really appreciate it. I've scoured RU-vid, and you're the only person I've seen do this.
Great instructional video. Amazing what you can achieve without really expensive tools in a man cave. Your Grinder/ Polisher really caught my eye. Very useful.
Lo felicito por este excelente video,hice lo mismo q iso usted y queda muy bien el defecto de fabrica q hace dremel con la pieza q traba el eje es q no debe tener esa pestaña q le hacen en fabrica porq esa pestaña no deja subir el traba boton y este termina desgastandose con el eje y ya no funciona y la solucion es q no tenga esa pestaña y durara mucho mas tiempo.
Thanks for posting. Your work is a great tribute to your Dad--very nicely done. I have one of these No 1's I bought and started restoring 2 years ago, then got distracted halfway through. Finding your video inspired me to finish it...and reminded me of the assembly process...although mine has pins instead of screws for the nut and mainscrew.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video. Restoring things can be fun but some of the restorers out there make things look a lot easier than it actually is. Just paining the letters on that thing gave me a a headache and yet others make it look so easy.
What a fabulous little restoration you did. This was exactly what I was looking for to give me an idea of how to restore some of the older tools I have been picking up over the years at antique shops so that I can populate my workshop with well made (to last) equipment. Beautiful job Sir, well done.
Thank you for your kind words. I started restoring tools because of watching RU-vid vidoes and thinking I just fancied giving it ago. Best of luck with your projects.
Thanks, glad to be of help. I did find the lettering tricky and someone who did a better job of lettering on a vice said he used a small sponge to paint and he got better results so worth a thing. Anyway good luck with your project.
Back when they were making tools then they thought it made them look modern by chrome plating them rather than the older brass furniture look, yes at the time people fell for this so called advanced look but over time some wanted the old look and some polished to chrome off and some did this when it flaked off as a few tools were plated thinly. I would of been one that removed it too!
Cool, so the fact I messed up and polished it off by accident all worked out right in the end! I do agee though, the honest brass look I think works so much better and blends in much better with the wood.
Hi, thanks for the kind words. The polisher was a prezzie from my wife and for the price I think its a nice piece of kit. Here is the link www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb521grb-200mm-brushless-electric-bench-grinder-240v/85634
@@themancaveman Thanks for the link, that looks perfect for me. Where did you get the polishing arm extensions, mops etc? What kind of mops, compound are you using? Thanks, I appreciate you taking the time to answer my questions! 👍
@@darrenwheatley4677 Hi Pal, I got the arm extensions from Amazon for about £12 the pair. It's important to get a left and right, which might seem obvious but it wasn't to me until I looked it up. Also on Amazon I got the polishing compound, I bought Silverline as its cheap at about £6 per large bar. As for wheels I tend to get good deals on Ebay. A few cotton ones and a couple of scotchbrite types in fine and course seem to do the job, Never had any issues with cheap Ebay wheels.
Nice job. I'm restoring the same one, but I'm having trouble getting the chuck appart to take the jaws out 0:53 in your video. I've tried just about everything… Any thoughts on this?
Hi, I struggle as much as the next restorer when it comes to taking apart difficult bits! My advice is just the usual. Plenty of WD40, leave and repeat a few times. Then maybe vice the bottom bit and wrench the top part. Heating lightly with a blow torch can also help.
I am trying to do the same with my father’s drill but I can’t get the main shaft out. The chuck is missing I was hoping to get a replacement parts the bit where it would sit on is not threaded it just has some sort of groove in it. There appear to be no pins through the main shaft but I can’t disassemble where are you based would you take this job on
Hi, thanks for your faith in my skills but regrettably I just don't have the time. Also if you are having trouble taking it apart then I probably would too. My advice is to try and find a RU-vid video of your model and give it a go. If I am not sure about taking something apart that's what I do. Best of luck :)
Nice! I just found one exactly like it minus the square near the hammer I restored it tonight added some black divots to the sides of the head . Looks pretty sick. Not as shiny as yours tho, lol
Cheers pal, Its only shiny because I have a bench polisher. If I had to use sandpaper like the real pros do I am not sure I would have the patients to polish 1 tool...
I believe I have the same one as you. Mine has CRAFTSMAN 4810 etched into the part where his has a rectangular milled out section. The shaft on mine is also more rounded, as opposed to rectangular. I restored mine in the past 2 days. It didn't come out nearly as nice as his, but it's free of rust, I polished it with 00 steel wool, and I cleaned, dried and oiled the sheath. The only thing left to do, is seal a vertical crack in the handle rubber, and add a lanyard like he did.
Hi pal, yes it was just a screw. A bit of trial and error to get the right width. As you can see at 7:30 I just popped it in and then used a marker to mark where it was flush then added a few millimetre's. Its better to cut it a mil longer as you can always cut off a bit more until it locks perfectly.
Thanks for the nice comments, The hatchet is Shiny but other restorers do a much better job than me. I don't think I have the patience or skill to make it 100% mirror like.
@@themancaveman I am familiar with such axes. An acquaintance of mine used them to chop up concrete when installing doors, and he praised them very much.)
Hi Matthew, I did try vinegar in the past but got nowhere, I bought a bottle of this ( www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401775430280 ), that one bottle dilutes into the container you saw me use in the video. I was surprised how good it was. I had a large packet of rusty nails and put them in and they came out shiny and clean, which saved me buying a new packet of nails! When I finish I just strain off the rust and put it back in the container.
@@themancaveman I can understand that LOL but since you fancy it and are safety conscious, I can advise that there are a lot of tutorials how to do it but they rarely cover all the safety issues. From experience these are the things to take note of. 1. touching the electrodes together - can produce a spark or worse blow a fuse. 2. It produces explosive gasses (oxygen and hydrogen) which are harmless unless you are running it in small room for several days. 3. putting your finger in the water while holding the electrode - you get a little tingle and 4. The one and only really dangerous thing is if you use a stainless steel anode. The chemical reaction produces hexavalent chromium poison which made Erin Brockovich famous. Just use some rebar or some other sacrificial piece of cheap steel then you can dump the water.
@@Saw-IT Thanks for the advice pal, the problem is my brain has now latched onto the 3 words "Hexavalent Chromium Poison". I was only worried about electrocution before, but now you have given me something else to worry about....lol
As coincidence happens was just tidying my late fathers tools at the weekend and he had an almost identical one with a blue paper sticker on it saying "Rabone Chesterman TEAK 1626". So maybe the 1625 is the Mahogany version. I'd guess ours was from early to mid 1970's and font on sticker is from around that era. This one also has Rabone Chesterman stamped into the brass so that may help you date yours if you can find when they changed the name from J Rabone to Rabone Chesterman.
Cheers, I am not very good at identifying wood but the consensus is the one I restored is rosewood but I also have another one of my dads that is slightly larger and that might Teak or Mahogany.
