Three comments: The oil should be more than a little warm because whatever is in the engine will flow out more completely when hot. Plan on running the bike at least until it is at operating temp. And - and this is a bit anal - when wiping the oil from the drain holes and filter mount, don't use paper, use a lint-free towel/rag. I would also recommend changing the oil AND filter every three thousand miles if you plan on keeping it for some time because, 1) it's butt-simple, and 2) it is a well-documented fact that more frequent changes will contribute to longer-lasting mechanicals: just makes sense, regardless of how fabulous the oil companies say their products are good at suspending particles, and who in their right mind thinks betting on a $17 filter to be "clean enough" is a good idea?! And besides spending an additional $60/year and an extra 30 minutes, there are no downsides. I second @andywiggens1069 using Shell Rotella 15w 40. Have used it for years, as have many of my hard-core motorcycle friends.
I noticed during the video that you were able to work on the underside of the trailer by flipping it up. I would like to do that as well, but don't know how. Would appreciate your response. Thanks.
I really like what you have done to the trailer and it didn't go to waste. But money wise it would be cheaper to buy a better used one or maybe even a new one. All the hours you've spent, time is money right.
2022 US OEM manual states no diesel (rotella) or non motorcycle oil. Change every six months or earlier miles, filter every year or earlier miles. Tip-Use magnet drain plugs to catch metal bits. Hand tighten oil filter. Measure when warm, not cold. Drain on side stand. Measure on center stand.
How did you handle the leaf springs? Take them apart to sand or just stay on outside? Remember to repack your wheel bearings with grease every 10k or once a year. Give or take. It gives you a chance to clean and inspect the bearings, race and the pole it spins on for any hot spots/wear & tear. Provides peace of mind while you are spinning down the road at 60 mph
I bought a Apache 3800 case from harbor freight it is 16x13x6 and mounted it on my tail rack cost me 45 bucks and it is waterproof and has places for 2 small paddle locks..something like this is way over priced Plus my case holds a lot more than what this small case could
Great video. Your story of finding the trailer is very similar to mine. But I will use 2x6 boards instead of mesh to haul dirt, etc. Thanks for sharing!
I buy rotella 15w 40 for 16 bucks and I get 3 Yamaha oil filters from amazon for 30 bucks. Only a fool would allow a dealership to bend them over. If you don't know how to do general maintenance on your own motorcycle maybe you should just stick to riding a bicycle.
I am getting some LED aux lights to mount on my highway bars on my cruiser. They are rated 10-30 watts, but from the answers given on Amazon, most people say they are only using closer to 10 watts than 30. If I were to tap off the current hi/low beam switch, would this be too much for the switch to handle. I also replaced my headlight with a SEALITE LED, which I believe draws about 13 watts. I want to wire the aux lights in so that they only run when I hit the hi beam on motorcycle and not have them running when the low beam is on constant from ignition startup. Your thoughts?
I always change my own. IMPORTANT WORDS OF CAUTION THOUGH. I've had two STs. The plastic Skid plate, clearly evident at 2:00 is held in place by four 4mm bolts. The two that go in horizontally, toward the rear are tapered ends. I had changed my oil three times, the fourth time, the "metal washer" he pointed out at 3;30 came off (I didn't notice) when I removed it. Put it back together after the oil change and noticed a drop of oil on the floor. It was near where that bolt on the skid plate's left rear side. Started to remove it and a stream of oil emerged. The tapered bolt had gone in too far, missing the "metal washer" (which is really a metal spacer,) and penetrated the engine oil pan, which is really just a flat plate. Needless to say I was quite upset. I ultimately removed the new oil, then took the plate off. Took it to a local guy who does a lot of welding and he used some special aluminum alloy (he knows the stuff inside out, I don't) to plug the hole. The bike has been Yamaha perfect over the 8 thousand miles since. BOTTOM LINE>> MAKE SURE THE SPACERS DON"T FALL OUT WHEN REMOVING THE PLASTIC SKID PLATE.
Is that flag a merger of the two Scottish flags? It's the Nova Scotia (Canada) flag with the exception of the white and blue being opposite. The NS flag is all white with the blue stripes and the lion. I've never seen the one you have. Nice job on the trailer btw
Great video. By the way for the first maintenance (1000km/600 miles) requires changing the shaft drive oil (which makes sense as there's gonna be some initial wear there as well). For what it costs, I'd rather change the oil too often than not enough. Fueling today cost me 40$ for 19L..., so the cost of oil changes is not much in a season, I don't mind changing oil every 6000km and change the oil filter every 12000km (Yamaha recommends using mineral oil, so obviously synthetic oil will last longer).
Great video and advice. I was gonna put 2x6 boards but I liked your idea much better. Also cuts down immensely on the weight. And I never considered brush painting. Again, great job my man. Be blessed.
