At my local break: Those actions were easily forgiving. The guy that had priority couldn't do much with that wave. The wave already closed out on him with couple turns. Move on.
Sunset can get huge and hold any size During the 82'-83' El Nino largest on record....Topanga was closing out about triple overhead. I Drove to Sunset...cops and lifeguards were keeping people out of the water. 15 in the water 150 standing knees shaking on the bluff. I got out and grabbed a 12 warm up wave started paddling back out and that's when I saw lines of sets triple overhead plus I got drilled. Lost the board and crawled up the Rocky cliff. The rip was taking ppl past the chart house This storm took down almost every pier from San Fran to the Mexican border. Sadly, under ten foot is a point break for kooky kookmeisters.
You should know what dimensions and volume you are looking for before you invest in a board. I waited for two years to find my dimensions and volume and I’m happy I didn’t just go surfboard happy and waste a ton of money
it's hard to tell with that vid, but the guy behind saw the guy infront of him for sure and could have been nice and let him have it, and i doubt the guy in front dropped in on him
How much volume cause 5’6 doesn’t justify, not a flex though because it’s all based on skill level and fitness😂 5’6 is too small for me in rail line, 5’10-5’11 in 28 liter range is so versatile being a few inches smaller than height
@@foxgd88 27 liters, so close to your board. I’m from Florida & we have adapted these crazy weird subtle shapes that work really well for our average conditions. But in my experience, my quiver travels & surfs well with me everywhere I have been so I’m pretty happy with it!
