Finally something about these spark plugs. I’ve been wading through AI generated garbage articles about spark plugs for days. Thank you for making this!
Dude, you're not running a supercharged 750hp V8. There's not going to be any meaningful change in power on a low compression, low output, low rpm passenger car engine. Especially when there's nothing to really improve on in the combustion cycle. To trim 1/10 of a second off the 1/4 mile you'd need to add 10hp. Not possible with a plug change on that engine...By their own admission the true goal of Iridium and Ruthenium plugs is simply increasing durability in lean modern engines that run high pressures and forced induction. You could toss some $2 NGK copper plugs in there and it would run just as well. Any differences you think you perceive are just a placebo effect.
Yes, it's a daily driver, not a super car. NGK makes 2 types of ruthenium plugs. One is for forced induction, the other is for naturally aspirated engines. Yes, the main goal of these plugs is to last longer. People made such a fuss over whether or not these plugs improved anything over iridium, so i figured I'd test it in what most people drive - an average car. Was it better? No, not really. Was it fun to test? Yeah - I was super curious and wanted to share my results.
Hello from the land down under could you please post the type of lights and ballast conections glue link were to purchase . mate best video very detailed love it cheers Wil
I put blue from a permanent marker on one and its lasted a long time, that will solve the issue for some years. Good to see you still have the mk1 outlander
In nyc you just bring them in and they give you new ones no questions asked….i don’t install myself but I bring the old ones back after paying for new ones and get full refund straight out the register again no questions asked….sorry they do ask for phone number for warranty lol
I doubt any Subaru owner ever told you that the car is reliable. I mean yes the car itself is reliable. It'll still be there on jackstands tomorrow. The head gaskets.. well.. they and the timing belt are a married couple so you do one you probably should do the other. 😂 yay head gaskets and timing belt combo
For future reference for anyone with a shudder, get a trans gasket and drop the pan and add the fluid directly in the pan (with new trans fluid)I use this stuff on bmws as well etc.
Trying to remove the middle one the bolt bent when i jacked the engine up with the cherry picker lol any idea how to get to the bottom motor mount bracket bolt? I'll pull the mount out with engine and transaxle and get the bolt out. I dont think i damaged the mount itseld
Great. That's exactly what I was thinking I would do with that tool. I'm glad to see that it works. I did see a guy grind some grooves into the inner race with a cutoff tool in order to get the splitter to bite. I'm almost sold on this method. Many thanks.
Thank you for the video this is giving me the confidence to modify my air compressor. I absolutely hate those 1/4 pipes and fittings. Why can't we have 1/2" coming out the compressor if there's 1/2" hoses and 1/2" fittings. I don't see a reason why not???
Good video. The correct procedure is to refill the transmission with 4.25 - 4.5 quarts of fluid and get it up to operating temperature before removing the leveling plug. LV expands a good bit when hot.
Thanks for the video. I am going to give this product a go in my 2013 Ford Edge SEL with 78,100 miles. I am hoping this product rectifys my shudder issue. Also, any transmission with over a 10qt capacity requires 2 2oz tubes of instant shudder fixx. There are other Lubegard products that can be used in conjunction with this product to prevent and very likely remedy previous damage.
