I had the same issue with power out. Recalibrate your ESC with the radio EPA at 100. Then set EPA to 105 or similar when you run. That should solve the problem.
Sticky tires, or just cleaned and warm? I ask because ive been attempting pure runs. I know i can gain quite a bit if i can just give them all the beans from jump, but the most ive done is clean, prep with softener and allow to dry then burnout. The drk is in my stock slash, the only car i hadnt modified yet, and the slowest. My best 2wd clean run has been 2.36 on my dr10. Ive done extensive testing, but havent been able to eliminate hard pull left and then jump right. She likes to get squirrely.
Looks like a nice and low rig! Looks very similar to my buddy's build. I'm not a fan of that shock angle style, and also no springs (yours looks like it still has some though). It's mainly just the suspension geometry that most people get wrong, usually good at some things but not others, not well rounded performance. Thanks for the great video!
@@ExaltedRC No. I still have no trim adjustments in the car still goes left. The weight switch works fine The 2 nd steering trim switch by the turn wheel does nothing when I adjust
That's a pretty sick little rig, Injora released some silicone tire inserts for the 24th scale and 18th scale crawlers, i use them on my 10 scale and they squish good like some normal foams but they keep the tire shape really nicely on side hills and strange obstacles. im not sure how they'll perform on the 24th scale stuff but i have a set of the yellow super softs on order hoping they'll increase the performance on my Enduro24 like they did on my normal 10th scale crawler
@@ExaltedRC They are a little more firm than expected, they seem like they're getting a little softer after using them more. like they have to break in or something. i dont have too much additional weight, just brass wheels which are fairly wheighty but they do have enough give to grip pretty much the same from what i can tell. the biggest thing i notice is the tires dont fold over as much as foams on some side angles
Re: the section talking about weight position in relation to incline- It makes me wonder for these little rigs if keeping the 60/40 front to rear weight, but having more of the front weight sprung and as much of the rear weight unsprung would be more advantageous. My thinking, and this is just thinking out loud! :D But if more of the weight is sprung on the front, that would act more on the front springs, lessening or delaying the unloading on uphill inclines. Often seems these little rigs are so low in sprung weight, it's part of what not only makes them jiggle but also seems to limit what the shocks actually do. Not a lot of compression when static and under compression, they just push the sprung mass(body, chassis, etc) up. It's more the twisting force that compresses the springs then the weight. Just thinking out loud though, so please forgive the ramble. Would be curious to see what 1:1 crawlers weigh and the exact ratio of sprung to unsprung weight is. I'd be on the average 1/24th, the ratio is often too much unsprung and not enough sprung. Again, great vid explaining your rig! Be nice to see more builders take the time you have to do a deep dive into the what's and why's.
Very interesting concept having the front links stretched out so much to get the weight more forward of the skid. I guess with the bulk of your weight in the wheels and axles, that makes sense. From what I've looked into, for crawling, the link geometry for anti-squat and anti-dive isn't a factor one needs to worry about. It only comes into play on high speed/fast acceleration vehicles. Great detailed video! Thanks!
Thanks for sharing with us such interesting videos. Kindly I have a Spectrum DX5C radio and I had been trying to use the throttle speed with the graph of the xlx2 but the graph of the xlx2 esc does not function on full throttle so I am trying to use the throttle speed, the travel or the expo but it is very difficult to find a combination and to know what is going on. I am trying to increase the launch between 40 to 60% on the graph and continue the graph until it gets to 100% in a linear position but the car is so powerful that it will keep on spinning till the end with the ultra soft compound tyres. I think one of the problems is that the car weights 6.7kg and the motor has over 10,700W that takes over 500A on 7s. I tried different type of graphs but up to now I didn't found the best one!
I am trying a different setup but only managed to do 1.98s with a speed of 151km and 2.44g force with a 7s 6000mAh 100c lipo batteries on a Limitless that weights 6.7kg with a Hobbywing max6 g2 combo and 1650kv sensord motor with rubber wheels. Now I am trying a v2 Limitless with same batteries but I only made 2.08s 2.41g 151km with xlx2 and 4070cm tp motor. It seems that the car is faster but I can not make a better time. Unfortunately with my escs I can not see that type od data that you have but they have different graphs and one with one turbo timing and the latest the tp is sensor less. It has lots of power but lots of spinning too!
I hit 2.63 on 6s on my v2 with a just for shits beans run. Only did it one time, and didn't prep at all. I'm certain it can do under 1.5. I'm running a tp1400 on that car. Castle link system and gnss will give you access to all of this.
@@reallythough4591we do not prep and the surface of the road is not that good so it is a bit difficult to go very fast in just a short distance. We tried in another road with better grip but they brought us the police so we cannot try again there unfortunately, because it was good and we were improving and best time we got was 1.89s with 8s on a v2 with xlx2 and tp 4070 2700kv 7s motor. Yesterday I tried the same car for a speed run with same setup for drag and managed to go up to 210km in 2.2 seconds on full throttle because I gave it a five seconds delay from the radio to smooth up the run!
Kindly, did you ever open the gns records to compare them with your data? Because I think that the skyrc gns does not give the maximum speed because it stops before the run is completed!
Is a very good remote I bought it’s month ago I don’t know how to do everything on it yet and it helped my drag cars run more consistently prep and no prep 👍
I wonder if you could chuck up a dowel or rod in a drill and wrap it in some fine sand paper and shave a blonde one off the seat? Super disappointing when companies can't get this stuff right before sending it out the door.
Thanks for all your Video's they are very helpful. I am having a issue with the Trottle Ramp not working with the Trans Brake Button. Any info on what version firmware is needed? I have 2 Radio's one with version V6.8.2S and the other with Version V6.8.0 Any info would be a help. Thanks!
Hey Josh I'm a complete beginner and your video has been super informative. I was recommended 63 37 Rosin Core Solder and a soldering iron over 75W. 1. What model and wattage is your soldering iron ? 2. How much should I pay for one ? I have QS8 connectors to solder and 8mm bullet connectors. Also have you seen those soldering pots. They are supposed to make tinning super easy.
I use a hakko fx888d. I think they run about $100 or so. Whatever iron you get, be sure to get a chisel tip. 5mm is what I personally use. Having a decent iron is something I waited too long to get. Highly recommended for thicker wire and big plugs.. makes it much easier and safer
