Great video series! It looks like the water passages in your engine block could use a bit of electrolysis to remove the rust. A few good flushes may do the trick, though it did look kinda chunky in there. Probably not great for your water pump or radiator.
I f you want to you can hit your start with 12volts it doesn’t harm the starter but it will harm the 6Volt coil and battery if my tractor is being stubborn I will use a 12 volt battery just on the starter with booster cables because sometimes when it’s hot it needs just a little bit more voltage but if it’s in gear it can kill you and any other innocent by standers so be safe 😀🇨🇦
So glad you got the 160 F thermostat I had a 180 F on my 8N and it was perfect in winter because it gets down to -40 degrees Celsius here in my neck of the woods but in summer when it’s + 35 degrees Celsius it was actually steaming away my antifreeze so I had to always add and not forget I didn’t need to warp the head or crack it and a fan shroud is a good deal to keep the fan pulling through the radiator . You can actually test the generator if you take the belt off and reverse the power flow it actually becomes an electric motor and it will save your carburetor and your patience if you put an inline fuel filter on it 😀🇨🇦
That is definitely a 9N block because only the most most early models have the oil line going directly from the oil filter canister to the block Henry Ford found the the governor was starving oil and he upgraded to an oil line from the oil filter canister back to the governor and of course running back into the block these 9N blocks are becoming rare and this is just me but I would look around for the the 9N front hubs and bringing it back to original condition and you’ll have a excellent example of 1939 engineering and you can take it to tractor shows and give others a chance to appreciate it and your amps gauge all you have to do is run the correct wire through the loop on the back of the gauge the 2 nuts are just to hold the gauge that’s the only purpose they serve you should get the 9N,2N,8N I&T shop manual it’s well worth it and the wiring diagrams are in there along with everything you need to know about rebuilding your tractor from front to back 😀🇨🇦
Did you check the valve guides for wear because that is something the N-series are known for wear on valve guides burnt valves and worn wrists pin bushings and how bad of a ridge did the sleeves have because it is probably time for sleeves and rings if you still have the 2 piece guides tells me that engine hasn’t been touched in a long time. But maybe you’re not as concerned about it I just find I need all the HP I can get out of my 8Ns I can! I hope that head you got was from a 8N that will give you a little bit more compression. You should also check your manifold because they always burn out #4 cylinder I guess because it gets all the exhaust heat from all the other cylinders I had one that even the block was burned away so I just used some JB weld to build it back up that stuff is a antique tractor owners best friend 😀🇨🇦
You actually have a Frankenstein Ford the front tires and hubs are off a 8N and the torsion bars are off a 9N so it may not be a 9N engine but the serial number is on the left side of the block just above the starter and below the head 😀🇨🇦
You are correct about the front hubs; seems upgrading them to 8N style is pretty common, so no surprise there. Actually probably a good thing, as they seem easier to find. On the torsion bars, from what I've been able to research, it seems they changed them to the round style sometime late in 1944, so assuming mine was built in early '44 as the serial number seems to indicate (assuming this is the original engine!), they are correct. Not that it matters a whole bunch to me, and it certainly wouldn't be the only mix-n-match part I've found - check out those running boards, definitely not 9N/2N! Thanks for watching!
FYI 2 full turns on the sediment bowl valve is for normal operation.. There is one gallon of gas for reserve and is available when you open the gas valve wide open. Also I have performed most tasks on my 9N and can provide insight and advise if needed
Sometimes radiator intake side (of water pump) hoses have spiral wire on the inside diameter to help prevent the hose from collapsing due to the vacuum created by the pump. It also aides in preventing a hose from pinching closed if it is bent beyond its minimum bend radius.
In the future, don't use carb cleaner or brake parts cleaner or contact cleaner, or, ......... as a substitute for "Quick Start" fluid or "Starting Fluid". The starting fluids (all the quality ones, "Sta-Bil" is just one example) have "Upper Cylinder Lube" in the can which keeps the cylinder walls and rings from being dried out by the either which they all contain which is very explosive which is why it works so well. Don't undo all your good work on a motor by scoring the cylinders due to no oil by using the wrong fluid (vapor) to quick start an engine.
Outstanding job cutting those valve seats in the previous RU-vid!!! Where in the world were you able to get just one cutter the exact size without purchasing a whole new way kit??
I actually did get a whole kit, but it was pretty inexpensive. I doubt it'll last more than a few jobs, but it was worth it. Any more use I get out of it is gravy!
Yep! You were correct. Those two valve seats look pretty bad! However, with low compression motors you would be surprised just how well they still run with low compression so long as a valve isn't burnt. Then you are done. I like to give an old girl a chance to get up and walk on her own before replacing her knees. But we all do our stuff our own way and you definitely had two bad seats!
Part of it for me is about learning, so I figured even if she'd run alright, I wanted to learn about the valve train. But you're absolutely right, these low compression engines seem to just run no matter what!
For the record, that is very little carbon build up for an old engine. And the valve tops (nothing to do with sealing) look very carbon free. It may have been worth the effort to get her running first and then check compression (for next time). Also there are Compression ring(s) for each piston and oil control ring(s) for each piston each with a different job.
Compression tests are much more accurate with two things: 1.) All the plugs removed so resistance is constant for each cylinder, and, 2.) Throttle is at "WOT" (wide open throttle). On engines that have been sitting for long periods (many years) rust builds up on the seats and valves. Getting an engine to run even with low compression will almost always bring the compression up (relative to valves) as the rust is knocked off the seats and valves. In addition, you sometimes free up compression rings that became stuck from sitting especially if you had presoaked for 24 hours with ATF or Marvels.
Usually,...... a "bad coil" diagnosis is a bad diagnosis unless that diagnosis was preceded by testing of the primary and secondary coils ("sides") within the coil to a resistance specification.
When you do this again, pull the plugs, add some oil through plug holes, get a battery charger with booster setting, and spin the motor over to distribute the oil on the rings (it makes a mess when compression blows most of it out the pug holes) and spin until you see oil pressure.
Do you/did you wait for the water soaked gasket to dry completely prior to applying what I think is RTV? Does the manual say to water soak or did you just figure that one out? I have not seen that before.
The manual (and all the guys on the forums at Yesterday's Tractors) said to soak it. That's just to get it to stretch a bit so it'll fit; then you can let it dry before adding any RTV or sealer.
I have lots of experience with grease guns and greasing bearings both by hand and via Zerk fittings. I have not seen that "needle" you were using. Where do I get one of those? Does it fit a standard grease gun thread?
Where did you purchase the replacement hub stud you broke? Is it a generally available stud from a hardware store (my hardware store does not have them) or a replacement tractor part?
I actually got that from Napa; believe it or not they have Ford N tractors in their database, though sometimes (as in the head stud I broke in the most recent vid) you have to match the threads with a generic part. Steiner Tractor and Yesterday's Tractors are also excellent resources.
@@40sVintageYT Thank you. I had no clue to try NAPA! I have a local store I will try first and then Steiner that I already use. My Jubilee has stripped threads on the throttle tension stud that is one thread in the transmission housing and another thread for the tension bolt. I will remove it and give NAPA try. Thanks. Great suggestion!
Very nice work there in the end. These videos would be more effective (for me) if you said what components of the brake system you replaced (like you did about what parts of the tractor you refurbished) and where you purchased those replacement components. Additionally, links would be over the top. Thanks for the great videos!
Excellent suggestion, thank you! In this case, we basically replaced everything inside the drum - shoes, springs, retaining springs, etc. We only left the drum itself and the backing plate original.
Thanks for documenting, I have all this ahead of me on Grandpa's tractor I'm trying to bring back to life. He loved the 40s music and is smiling from above as I begin to engage project.
