Hi Howard, I totally agree that it would have been great to put the bolt through from the inside, but there were no holes in the box frame where I could fit the bolt through. Thanks for liking the video!
just to be sure.. this spindle bearing is only for the 4x4 when the front axle engages correct? it has nothing to do with the outer bearings in the rotors right? or have anything to do with regular 2w drive? just making sure since I've encountered this clicking noise now and only in 2w drive. the noise clicks when I let on and off the brakes, and rattles when off the brakes as well.. but turning the front drive shaft axle I can pretty much hear it clicking where the passenger side spindle bearing is. thanks again
Well, the spindle bearing is only there for 4x4 trucks and it has nothing to do with the wheel bearings that are inside the rotor/hub assembly. But depending on how well your front locking hubs are working you might still be turning the spindle bearing even when in 2wd. If your front locking hubs do not fully disengage then when the tire rotates, the front axle shaft will rotate too and this will rotate the spindle bearing. If you have dirty manual locking hubs or worn out automatic locking hubs they might not disengage. If you are hearing a noise from the spindle bearing, then your right it is probably shot. Maybe you can clean out the locking hubs and put a thin layer of grease back in them too. I hope the fix goes well
Hi Mark, Well I have never worked on auto lock hubs, but I believe they need a different locking hub tool to remove the special nut that they use. This web page might give you some helpful info: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/HubDiagnosis.shtml At least they show some of the parts of the auto locking hubs.
Thank you for the video. I usually order replacement parts from rockauto [.com] they are by far the least expensive for the parts I order; the bleeder screws there were around US$0.54 and they also carry two different oversize replacements. From Amazon you can buy plastic/rubber covers for the bleeder screws/zerk-fittings, around $10 for 50 caps. They keep the bleeder screw clean and sealed.
I order from rockauto too, even with shipping to Canada and money conversion they're usually a better price. When I was buying parts the little rubber caps would have been an extra shipping cost because it came from a different warehouse, oh well. I didn't know about the over sized bleeder screws in case I needed to drill out the old bleeder screws; thank you for the info!
Buddy I just finished your video!! WOW your video is SPOT ON!! So much information. Just the work on the spindle was one thing, but the work it took to make the video, VERY impressed. Very nice job sir, thank you for all of your time.
I have a 94 ranger v6 4.0 I guess I have the larger front dana 35 from my research.. I need to do this to my truck.. is there a difference between the parts of this opposed to the smaller axle?
Hello! As far as I know the spindle bearing kit is different between the Dana 28 and the 35. I believe you should have a Dana 35 because of the year and engine size, but you never know. Always better to double check! Here's a great page to help you determine if you have a Dana 35 or a 28: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/dana_28_35.shtml Here's a great page for more information: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/spindlebearing.shtml I hope this helps.
I though the use of the drill bit was kind of silly. I was wrong. Had a badly rounded and partially crushed bleeder screw that was close to breaking off flush and would NOT unfreeze. The drill bit made all the difference. After heating and inserting the drill bit, I was able to get a solid grip with no further damage. Then, the screw came out with a two-finger push on the grips. Still do think that PB Blaster works better than wax, though. -- All Smiles Now !
im pretty seasoned as a mechanic, but have never seen the drill bit trick. Interesting stuff. Also, the wax. I usually end up bleeding it at the caliper line if all else fails, and hope that the remaining air works itself up through the system in to master cylinder. If the line is toward the lower end of the caliper my method wont work. On the heat thing..I try to heat the caliper and not the bleeder directly, hoping the caliper will expand and the bleeder stay the same size...sometimes helps :)
LOL, Once or twice I had to fill a caliper and then put the line on, and then bolt it to the rotor cage. If the line is low on the caliper and you can't get the bleeder...there are ways around stuff.
Hi Seclorum, I don't know for certain if your truck will use the same parts. My truck was made in North America and I don't know if they would have used a different rear axle if your truck was manufactured on a different continent. In North America Ford only used 2 types of axles for the 1997 Rangers: Ford 8.8 28 spline = www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml Ford 7.5 28 spline = www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-7_5-axle.shtml My parts list will work on both of these axles except for the differential cover seal and the differential cover, you need to get the correct cover and seal for the 7.5 or the 8.8. The web links above can help you see which one you have. As long as the axle was never changed, you can check your door sticker to see what axle code you have: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml I'm sorry I can't say for certain that my parts list will work, I just don't want you to buy a bunch of parts only to find out later that your truck had a different rear axle.
Thanks Mate, my Ranger is also made in North America. A Soldier of your army brought it to Germany. Your helped me a lot with that answer. I am so glad to find you and your channel ! Thank You !
The steps should be pretty close to the same. The hub nut tool will work as long as the truck has manual locking hubs. If the truck has automatic locking hubs you can read this: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/howto_hubswap.shtml I think many of the parts will be different for a 89 4x4. I might be wrong, but I believe they have Dana 28 front axle (my truck has a Dana 35). If it is a Dana 28 then it would take Set 35 Timken wheel bearings (you need to buy 2 for each side). If you need to change the spindle bearing it will probably be different too (Dana 35 = Timken kit SBK4) (Dana 28 = Timken kit SBK2), you need to buy one kit for each side. The brakes will probably be different too, I think they can be different depending on the model you have. Sorry can't help you on the brakes. Make sure you double check all of my info before you buy parts, I could have made a mistake! Hope this helps a little!
Tried this and it worked great! Tweaked the method a bit though. Treated the bleeder with penetrating spray for an hour before, wasn't convinced about the wax so didn't use it. Gripped it with vice grips and applied medium torque. No budge, so heated the nipple up super hot with butane torch for about 2 minutes, and then whacked it a lot harder than in this video with a hammer (flush on so nipple wouldn't snap). I then applied medium torque again with vice grips and it freed up. I was very impressed as I thought it was rusted solid. Worked a treat. thanks.
Thanks for the video. I've done a lot of disc brakes before but this would be the first time on my 94 Mazda B3000 truck 4x4 with manual locking hubs. Do I need to take apart the whole hub locker in order to get the rotors off? Thanks in advance!
HI Rich, Nope, you can remove the hub locker as one piece after removing your wheel. After the wheel is off the only thing that might still hold the hub locker to the rotor might be small clips that are on the lug bolts, but on most trucks these clips have been rusted off or never replaced. You don't need them so I never replace the clips either. I only took apart the hub locker to clean and inspect the insides. You're welcome! Have fun!
I actually ended up using a punch and hammer and turning the knuckle to bust it loose from the back enough to get a pry bar under the spindle itself to finish getting it off. that was after 2 days of beating on it with a pry bar and hammer to no avail. it's a 97 4x4 xlt. I'm in the "salt belt" of the U.S. which means EVERYTHING is rusted. besides my new ball joints and tierods that is😊
Hi, I'm attempting this job because I blew the driver's side inner bearing (the one on the rotor) and the bottom race seized itself to the spindle, so I got another spindle from a local JY, and gonna put new bearings and seals in it. I was just wondering where you got the Timken SBK4 part number from. Nothing on rockauto or summitracing or anything I can find are linking SBK4 to a 1996 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT (my truck). But your video is super detailed, and everything matches my truck verbatim, (except mine has ABS where yours doesn't), so I took your word for it and ordered SBK4. It was only a $10 wager on my part, but I'm just curious where you made that connection. Great videos, btw, they have been extremely helpful so far.
Hi Alejandro, Thank you and I'm happy to hear the videos were helpful! That's great that you were able to find a good replacement spindle! I found that part number on Rockauto: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1997,ranger,4.0l+v6,1138160,brake/wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636?a=Referer+www.google.ca+URL+%2F It was the only part that matched my truck (1997 Ford Ranger 4x4 4.0L). The main thing you need to know is what type of front axle you have. Is it a Dana TTB 28 or a Dana TTB 35? If it is one of those then as far as I know they both use the same parts for their spindles. Good luck on the repair.
Ah, there it is! Thanks for the reply. See, I was looking for it under 'spindle bearing and seal kit, here: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1996,ranger,4.0l+v6,1138104,brake/wheel+hub,spindle+bearing+and+seal+kit,1644?a=Referer+www.google.ca+URL+%2F but yup, here it is:www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1996,ranger,4.0l+v6,1138104,brake/wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636?a=Referer+www.google.ca+URL+%2F I should have the Dana 35. Only the 4 cylinder rangers came with the 28.
Great vid... I might elect to use 22mm wrench. I have 95 ranger 2.3l, I was changing out shocks last weekend and saw one of the sensor and easy to get too.
Thanks Todd. Yup, I agree, see if you can get it with a wrench (I'll cross my fingers for you!), if that doesn't work, move up to an oxygen sensor socket or a normal socket. I think heating up the exhaust helped a lot so you might want to do that even with the wrench.
Getting ready to do this job on my 97 Mazda B2300-- how much gear oil do I need? I can't seem to find how much the rear diff takes. I assume getting 1gal is probably the best bet. Thanks!
+Deb Spannagel Hi Deb, I don't know for certain what rear axle you have, but I think it is a ford 7.5. If so it should take around 3 quarts. Just keep filling into the fill hole until it starts to leak back out of the fill hole. Oh, and the truck needs to be on level ground and not on jack stands, otherwise the fill hole might be at the wrong angle. Here is a page that might help you with your rear axle: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-7_5-axle.shtml Hope this helps! and you're welcome.
I like the video. I need a flexpipe, and instead of paying $150 for a new pipe, I'm gonna try what you did. What is the purpose of the cement? Is it to seal up exhaust leaks? I'm wondering if clamps are good enough to stop any exhaust leaks?
+tiffany garvin Thanks Tiffany. You're right, I used the muffler cement as an extra seal to try my best to avoid exhaust leaks. I know a lot of people normally don't use cement when using clamps and it seems to work ok for them.
Great video ! Your video just saved me $$$ on taking my 1996 Camry to the exhaust shop. After I watch this I know I can do it myself. I hope it's good to know that even to this day you and your video is still helping people. Thank you !!
+Thomas Madison You're welcome Thomas! Yah, it's nice to help others. It amazing how much help we can get from other peoples videos from all around the world.
+Jamie Dolan You're welcome Jamie! I had the car for a little over 2 years and it was still nice and tight. The person who I sold the car to had it for about a year and it was still tight. After that I don't know, but I'm guessing the exhaust pipes will rust out before the clamps fail. Thanks Billy
Awesome I have a 1997 Ford Ranger 4x4 3.0 I just got a Manual conversion Rugged Ridge Lock out Hubs and Have Not Idea how to install it.I was wonder about the 2 nuts and the washer position. but you just showed on minute 8:30 thank you
Not a bad idea to zip off those exhaust clamp bolt sticking out of those nuts, as it is quite the jolt when they catch on road debris or whatever. One good hit and your work is undone, and everything to the rear of where the clamp bolts are could go with it. I speak from experience, not on a toyota, but it's about the same. Maybe point them sideways if there is enough room.
funny thing is every 1 of these videos is....that pin that all you guys take out with little or no effort to push axle forward for the clip removal,yeah i ve been on mine for 2 days now,,,,wanna explain your secret....cause i don t get ?....why can t i gat mine out?
+grant peachey Hi Grant, Normally the pin slides out pretty easy once the retaining bolt is removed. Is there any chance the retaining bolt was partially broken off in the differential? It might have happened when someone else was working on the differential. Check the retaining bolt and make sure it has no threads for about a 1/4 inch on the end that goes into the pin. If the bolt was broken then you might need to research how to remove a broken retaining bolt, I've heard it's a challenge. If the retaining bolt was not broken then you might have a lot of wear on the pin that you are trying to remove. It can get grooves worn into it and the groove would catch as you try to slide out the pin. You'll need to wiggle the spider gears and their washers that sit between the gear and the carrier. Once the pin is removed you'll probably need to replace the pin and maybe the gears and washers. Hope this helps Billy
Hi Tom, I used MotoMaster 80W-90 Extreme Pressure Gear Oil that had the following specs: Hypoid Gear Oil, API GL-5, API MT-1, SAE J2360, Mack GO-J www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/motomaster-80w90-extreme-pressure-gear-oil-5l-0280249p.html#.VsHO2_luns0 In the write up on the back of the oil jug/bottle it will normally list the specs. The most important ones to get from what I've read are: Hypoid and GL-5 One very important question is: Do you have a limited slip differential (LSD)? If you do have a LSD then you need to either get a small bottle of friction modifier to mix into your gear oil, or buy a gear oil that already has friction modifier in it. You can buy the bottle of friction modifier from Ford, but you might be able to find it other places, but I don't know where you can but the LSD gear oil. The friction modifier allows your limited slip to work properly with out burning up the limited slip clutches. My truck did not have a limited slip differential so I did not use friction modifier. A great site for some info on the axle: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml Thanks for watching!
I have a 93 Ford Ranger 5 speed 4x4 with automatic push button locking hubs. My left wheel seem to pop and jump teeth when in 4x4 mode. Its hard to get it in and hard to get it out of 4x4 mode. I generally have to stop and drive backwards a bit to get it to completely unlock. What would cause this and how do I fix it? Do you have a video?
Hi George, Sorry, I don't have any videos on automatic locking hubs. When you say automatic push button locking hubs, do you mean push button 4x4 with automatic locking hubs? Or do you have a separate button to engage your locking hubs? As far as I know 93-97 trucks only came with Manual locking hubs or automatic spring loaded locking hubs. On my truck I have a switch to engage 2x4,4x4 high, 4x4 low. Then I also need to get out of my truck and manually turn the dial on both of my front wheel hubs to lock the hubs. I don't have any experience with the automatic locking hubs, but from what I have read they can be a real pain when they get rusted or dirty inside, or start to wear out. When they wear out or get filled with dirt/rust they will stick just like you explained. They sometimes make you think something is wrong with your transfer case, even though it's only one or both locking hubs that's bad. I think you'll have to take them apart to inspect for worn parts, but hopefully just clean and lightly re grease and re seal. I think the hubs are the same as the early explorers so this page might help for cleaning the hubs: www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206722 This page explains some helpful info (The part that talks about locking hub problems and diagnosis): www.aa1car.com/library/4wd_locking_hubs.htm This web page might help you out a little too: www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/HubDiagnosis.shtml Hope this helps some! Billy
+BMPWR - Thanks, those links are helpful! My Ranger has a 5 speed manual tranny and has 2 buttons on the dash 4X4 and LOW 4X4 so I am assuming it is push button 4x4 with automatic hubs. 4X4 can be engaged while moving but the low range I must be stopped and in neutral.
I'm glad to hear it! I'd say you're right about push button 4x4 and you have auto locking hubs. The way you engage 4x4 and 4x4 low is the same as my 97. The only thing different is that it has only one selector switch verses your two buttons. Hopefully your auto hubs only need a good cleaning and light greasing!
Great video. I'm doing the same job to my '03 this weekend. Hoping I have the correct bearings and seals. I checked several times and cross referenced what I could online and got Timken bearings and Ford/Motorcraft seals. I don't really think I need the bearings but if I'm already in there I might as well and they are not expensive. I have a bearing/seal installer kit but just simply rented the slide hammer and bearing puller from the parts store. Also replacing all the brake shoes and related components since they got soaked from the one leaking axle seal. And of course several cans of brake clean to clean up the slimy mess it left behind. The Ford seals I got look quite a bit different than the parts store ones. They have a metal "flange" on the outer edge and and external diameter permanent O-ring type seal in addition to the inner seal that rides on the axle shaft. Kinda feel better about that and they were only $1 more. Hopefully they are! The only thing I'm worried about is one of the spider gears falling out but I guess as long as you don't rotate the axles with the big pin out it should stay put.
Thanks klc317! Those seals sound nice! You're right, as long as you don't rotate the axle shafts while you remove them or replace them then the spider gears will stay where they are. Just be gentle while placing the axle shafts back into the differential because you need to line up the splines on the axle shaft to the splines in the side gears of the differential. If the axle shaft splines don't match, just pull the axle shaft out a little then spin the axle shaft just a tiny bit, then try installing again. Good luck on the replacements!
+BMPWR got it all done today. Easier than I thought except for of course they gave me the wrong bearings like you had mentioned in the video. Got them exchanged and all went well. Replaced all the rear brakes too. I forgot how much I dislike working on drum brakes.
+klc317 Good work! Funny how many places don't understand the difference between the 31 spline and the 28/27 spline ford 8.8 axles. Yah drum brakes can be a pain in the hands! I find a high quality pair of locking long nose pliers helps a lot to stretch the springs on and off. I'm glad things turned out good!
