Electronics fascinate me and almost everything i have learned is by taking things apart. I,m very curious and I just want to know how everything works. I have to buy most items myself to make the video's so have setup a Patreon page incase anyone would like to help me out www.patreon.com/markusfuller
Good day dear, I see your video and would like to ask you a question to help me with your expert about same mixer like this, need to know the use of the bga chip xilinx spartan I attached photo of, cause it was shorted and the mixer was off so when I remove it it works but will it be able in inputs and outputs audio if we get rid of it, and if I ordered new blank ic from separate seers does it need to be programmed befor Resolder it or it then will work as intended,
Are the Fantom series synths similar to the way a Juno is put together? I have one that had ginger ale spilled on it and a few of the keys in the lowest octave don't work or work only sometimes. I think I could tackle a job like what you showed in the video but I'm worried that I'll get in there and find something totally different. I think if the keys are similar to the one you just did I'll be okay.
@@serenemachine9110 I honestly don’t know as there are so many different types of these keybeds. a lot of them work the same with the rubber dome over the circuit board contacts but the way the plastic key is removed could be different.
Thank you so much for such a great video - it has helped me to fix a D50 out of tune due to pitch bender metal bar was not centred, so I was able to fix it.
@@mirel_lame Hi the code should be in the description under the video. I will have to try and find the schematics for you but Im not sure how to get each others email through the youtube so i can send things over.
Your project is so great, i have no words. I love in it. I do the same project. Thx for the arduino code. I using in my project the lcd ST7355. On my channel will be the movie soon.
I live in Phoenix, Arizona USA and own a Yamaha W-5. It needs some maintenance. Can anyone suggest anyone with the patience to work on these? No one here will even look at it because it is a 1995 and it weighs a ton. It works, just the usual sticky buttons and back light. Please help!!! I don't want to give it up as it is a part of me. Also I would be interested in trading for a W-7 as it is lighter. I am in my late 60's. Thanks
If you are using audio cables you will have problems and/or fry the lights or controller because it doesn’t have the right resistance as data cables. Cat5 can be used for dmx and is cheaper than dmx cable for running greater lengths.
So I spilled my "Old Fashioned" all over my Push 2 and I was sure it would never work again. Thanks to you Markus I was able to fairly confidently disassemble my Push 2, assess the damage, clean and dry the affected components, and reassemble it. I am happy to report it works perfectly!!! Cheers!!!
@@electronical_matrix Arduino camera slider code /* stepper motor Rail Pan Tilt camera controller by Markus Fuller 2020 using 1 Arduino UNO 3x nema17 stepper motors and 3x EasyDrivers from www.schmalzhaus.com Library - AccelStepper by Mike McCauley: www.airspayce.com/mikem/arduino/AccelStepper/index.html */ #include <AccelStepper.h> #include <MultiStepper.h> #define PanX A0 // Pan X pin #define TiltY A1 // Tilt Y pin #define Rail A2 // Slider potentiometer #define inOutPot A3 // In and Out speed potentiometer #define PanStop 10 // to stop pan cable tangling #define Button 12 // Set Button #define EndStop 11 #define RedLED 8 // RGB Led Red #define GreenLED 9 // RGB Led Green #define blueLED 13 // RGB Led blue // Set stepper motor pins on Arduino as type, Step, and Direction, AccelStepper stepper1(1, 7, 6); AccelStepper stepper2(1, 5, 4); AccelStepper stepper3(1, 3, 2); MultiStepper StepperControl; long gotoposition[3]; // stores the A and B position for every stepper motor int PanPos = 0; int TiltYPos = 0; int RailPos = 0; int currentSpeed = 100; int inOutSpeed = 100; int XInPoint = 0; int YInPoint = 0; int ZInPoint = 0; int XOutPoint = 0; int YOutPoint = 0; int ZOutPoint = 0; int InandOut = 0; void setup() { stepper1.setMaxSpeed(3000); stepper1.setSpeed(300); stepper2.setMaxSpeed(1500); stepper2.setSpeed(75); stepper3.setMaxSpeed(1500); stepper3.setSpeed(75); pinMode(PanStop, INPUT_PULLUP); //faultstop to help prevent pan cable tangling pinMode(Button, INPUT_PULLUP); //setswitch which is also activate button pinMode(EndStop, INPUT_PULLUP); //endstop microswitch pinMode(RedLED, OUTPUT); //red led pinMode(GreenLED, OUTPUT); //green led pinMode(blueLED, OUTPUT); //blue led StepperControl.addStepper(stepper1); StepperControl.addStepper(stepper2); StepperControl.addStepper(stepper3); // Move the slider to the Home position when first turned on while (digitalRead(EndStop) != 0) { stepper1.setSpeed(1500); stepper1.runSpeed(); stepper1.setCurrentPosition(0); // When EndStop is activated this sets position as step 0 } delay(30); // Moves back slightly from the rail endstop while (stepper1.currentPosition() != -1500) { stepper1.setSpeed(-1500); stepper1.run(); // This section below for Pan centre control } // Moves the pan head anticlockwise until microswitch is activated while (digitalRead(PanStop) != 0) { stepper3.setSpeed(-400); stepper3.runSpeed(); stepper3.setCurrentPosition(0); // When Pan is centred set position to 0 steps } delay(30); // Moves pan clockwise untilfacing forward, this may need to be changed depending on how many teeth between stepper and pan wheel while (stepper3.currentPosition() != 1070) { stepper3.setSpeed(400); stepper3.run(); // End of section above digitalWrite(blueLED, HIGH); // blue led turns on } } void loop() { // this will cancel out the rail movement if you try and travel beyond safe limits while (digitalRead(EndStop) == 0 || stepper1.currentPosition() < -40500) {} if (digitalRead (Button) == 0) { delay(1000); // hold switch for 1 second to reset all values then LED turns Blue if (digitalRead (Button) == 0) { InandOut = 4; } switch (InandOut) { case 0: // Set the A position InandOut = 1; XInPoint = stepper1.currentPosition(); // Set the IN position for steppers 1 YInPoint = stepper2.currentPosition(); // Set the IN position for steppers 2 ZInPoint = stepper3.currentPosition(); // Set the IN position for steppers 3 digitalWrite(blueLED, LOW); // MSF blue led goes out digitalWrite(RedLED, HIGH); // Light up inLed break; case 1: // Set the B position InandOut = 2; XOutPoint = stepper1.currentPosition(); // Set the B positions for steppers YOutPoint = stepper2.currentPosition(); ZOutPoint = stepper3.currentPosition(); digitalWrite(RedLED, LOW); // red Led goes off then Green Led Illuminates stating ready to run digitalWrite(GreenLED, HIGH); break; case 2: // Move to A position / go to next part case 3 InandOut = 3; inOutSpeed = analogRead(inOutPot); // Place the A position into the Array gotoposition[0] = XInPoint; gotoposition[1] = YInPoint; gotoposition[2] = ZInPoint; stepper1.setMaxSpeed(inOutSpeed); stepper2.setMaxSpeed(inOutSpeed); stepper3.setMaxSpeed(inOutSpeed); StepperControl.moveTo(gotoposition); StepperControl.runSpeedToPosition(); delay(200); break; case 3: // Move to B position and returns go back to case 2 above InandOut = 2; inOutSpeed = analogRead(inOutPot); // Place the B position into the Array gotoposition[0] = XOutPoint; gotoposition[1] = YOutPoint; gotoposition[2] = ZOutPoint; stepper1.setMaxSpeed(inOutSpeed); stepper2.setMaxSpeed(inOutSpeed); stepper3.setMaxSpeed(inOutSpeed); StepperControl.moveTo(gotoposition); StepperControl.runSpeedToPosition(); delay(200); break; case 4: // If Set button is held longer than one second go back to the beginning case 0 above InandOut = 0; digitalWrite(RedLED, LOW); digitalWrite(GreenLED, LOW); digitalWrite(blueLED, HIGH); delay(1000); break; } } // PanX - Pan movement XPos PanPos = analogRead(PanX); // if Pan Pot is moved left, move stepper 2 pan anticlockwise if (PanPos > 600) { //stepper2.setSpeed(currentSpeed); PanPos = map(PanPos, 600, 1024, 0, 200); stepper2.setSpeed(PanPos); // Increase speed } // if PanPot is moved right, move stepper 2 pan clockwise else if (PanPos < 400) { //stepper2.setSpeed(-currentSpeed); PanPos = map(PanPos, 400, 0, 0, 200); stepper2.setSpeed(-PanPos); // Increase speed } // if PanPot is centred then there is no movement else { stepper2.setSpeed(0); } //Tilt Y - Tilt movement TiltYPos = analogRead(TiltY); if (TiltYPos > 600) { //stepper3.setSpeed(currentSpeed); TiltYPos = map(TiltYPos, 600, 1024, 0, 200); stepper3.setSpeed(TiltYPos); // Increase speed } else if (TiltYPos < 400) { //stepper3.setSpeed(-currentSpeed); TiltYPos = map(TiltYPos, 400, 0, 0, 200); // Try changing this to lower value to slow tilt stepper stepper3.setSpeed(-TiltYPos); // Increase speed // If TiltPot is centred then there is no movement } else { stepper3.setSpeed(0); } // RAIL potentiometer RailPos = analogRead(Rail); // If potentiometer is turned left then the Gantry moves towards the control unit if (RailPos > 600) { RailPos = map(RailPos, 600, 1024, 0, 3000); stepper1.setSpeed(-RailPos); // Increase speed } // If potentiometer is turned right then the Gantry moves away from the control unit else if (RailPos < 400 ) { RailPos = map(RailPos, 400, 0, 0, 3000); stepper1.setSpeed(RailPos); // Increase speed // If potentiometer is centred then there is no movement } else { stepper1.setSpeed(0); } // run the camera slider stepper1.runSpeed(); stepper2.runSpeed(); stepper3.runSpeed(); }
Thank you very very interesting. I just purchased one of these and the sound is amazing. BUT all the short wave channels are completely DEAD not a peep of sound. I did read that German radios had something disabled or not allowed in their country so that comes to mind ( how they did that I do not know) if you are someone else can help me that would be great. Also I do have another radio that will happen to so I have to wiggle the turret a certain way or give the radio a tap with my hand and then it will come in. Thanks in advance :-) GREAT radio I have the Grundig 6000 and it reminds me of it
Hi, this is nice project, perfectly made. Can you help me with the code? So that I can use it. Can I also get the wiring diagram for all the connections. Thanks in advance.
How Come When I Did It, It Acts Like A Kill Switch ? (Turns Off Everything When I Hit Switch, Then Turns Everything Back On When I Move Switch Back To Original Position) 🤔
I have to fix the keys on one for a buddy. I figured I would watch this first. It never got that far. Oh well, I will figure it out. At least I know where to start to open her up and what to expect inside. Good Video, thumbs up.
Firstly the current doesn't flow that way! The electrons migrate to the anode from the cathode....therefore from negative to positive! (I know, you going to say 'conventional current'). I designed amplifiers about 40 years ago and worked on something less than 10mA (1.2volts across it...more for LEDs other than red) for the LED current (they last a lot longer!), and as the rail voltage I was working with was up about 30 - 50 volts I used a rule-of-thumb 3.3kOhms - 5.1kOhms. This works for all voltages above 12 volts (1.2k....but I'd probably use 1k for a bit more glim!!)
I lusted after the Andromeda in 1999 and had just got my rca advance for my record. I didn’t end up buying the andromeda. I was waiting on The Moog Muse and got tired of waiting so I decided to buy an Andromeda. It arrived 1 week ago. I was told upfront that it had the parameter jump issue AND BOY IT DID! I followed Your Instructions and AFTER A LONG EVENING OF BEING BENT OVER THE SYNTH, I got it all back together. PROBLEM FIXED! NO ISSUE! I cannot believe in retrospect that I waited so long to buy the Andromeda. It’s still very relevant after 24 years! it’s magical. Thank You!
What a great informative video for the novice in electronics that I am , you make it so understandable that helps me so much. but I have two questions for you and that is what if I have model railway coloured led light signal that has a 12V power supply and needs to reduce down to 3V led's , red, green and amber, that only light up one at a time, do you apply the first example and would it be better to use a half watt resistor than a quarter watt one ?
This was great! I have a Kawai K5 synth with a few dead keys right where one plays the most. Now I know what to look for and what to do when I find it. Many thanks!
Hi Markus, Unrelated question if you don't mind , have you any idea on how to service / check a Behringer MDX2200 COMPOSER PRO ? Where would you start as I have similar test equiptment for servicing HF tranceivers ? Much appreciated. 😊
@@andrewverran6998 Hi Andrew. I am sorry but I have no idea or info on the Behringer Composer Pro. I do not know how to help you other than the usual dig around google for info. my apologies.
I followed this step by step and have had fairly good success with the pots response in comparison to before, but... the pots feel a lot looser and less lovely resistance when turning. Any recommendations on getting them closer to before after spraying with f5?
Great but you forgot the daughter board , which controls all the audio flow in and out of the board. The daughter board processes the audio out of the X 32 . The daughter board has a micro SD card which has software that tells the board what to do,and contains The X 32 or M 32 Logo.
This doesn't make sense to me. Why would Volts divided by Amps of an LED give you the resistance of some other component not yet in the circuit? I would have expected it to give you the resistance of the LED itself. The LEDs I have don't even list their Amperage (probably because they've got a voltage range) but they have 3 Ohms listed against all of them - now I don't know whether this is the resistance of the LED or not. I don't see how it could be the resistance of anything else given it doesn't know what's going to be connected to it as a power source.
In answer to your first paragraph, what you are calculating is the value of the series resistor to prevent excess current flowing through the LED. The author has said that he wanted 20mA current through the device ( this may be correct for the coloured LEDs but is far too high for the standard red ones) by subtracting the voltage needed to 'strike' the LED you arrive at the figure of voltage across the series resistor - it is this that is calculated by dividing the voltage across it by the current in the circuit. It's misleading to think of LEDs as having resistance....if you look at the way I used a rule-of-thumb to 'estimate' the value of the series resistor (in my earlier post), I ignore the LED - for supply voltages above 12v - and calculate the series resistor by using the supply voltage divided by the circuit current....this is near-enough approximation for most practical purposes - for indicator applications it's better to 'underrun' the device as it last longer....especially the earlier ones (all red!) when I worked in electronics
Thanks for this Markus. I'm working on a Roland E-600 after repairing the SMPS, I've found there's no backlight on the display. Your video gives me the needed encouragement to go ahead and try to fix it.