I personally have to thank you for sharing your knowledge this was a big blessing!!! Blessing and more blessings to you and your family in Jesus name Amen ❤️🙏
I was recently told to just change the belt it's faster. What do you think? I'm guessing for it to be cost effective for the client just tightening it would be better
That's a great question. I would never tell you to go against your company, but I always bid the extra time in, especially if I'm changing a sheave, bearing, pulley, or motor that was taken out by poor belt maintenance. If your alignment is good and your tension is close, then your sheaves, motors, pulleys, and bearings will last longer than if not. If the alignment or tension is poor, then they will be replaced more often (increasing overall cost for the customer) Now, if you're removing the belt properly by adjustment or motor slide, then you have to tension it and make sure it's aligned, might as well make sure it's tensioned properly anyway. If your company only alots the time to spin off an old belt and spin on a new belt and go, then you run the risk of breaking a cord in the belt causing earlier failure (not too much of a problem if you're changing belts regularly, but still a risk) as well as earlier component wear causing higher costs for the customer. Now, improper tension can also cause improper airflow, which causes the system to run inefficiently. So It all has a compounding effect. Those are cost that the customer doesn't even realize, but they are still there. It's amazing how a $7 filter or a $20 belt can cause such issues. Airflow is everything. Again, I will never tell you to go against your company, but I believe everyone should be aware of the effect it has on the system as a whole.
Great question! Never heard it put like that before, but it makes sense. From all of my reading, and talking to manufacturers, the tolerance on the label is the tolerance during operation. Once the capacitor reaches that mark, then the manufacturer recommends it be replaced as it can no longer provide optimal phase shift during operation. Nobody will argue with 10%. You'll get a slightly reduced efficiency, and rpm, but as long as you change it at 10% you'd be safe. If It's a contract customer and I'm there all the time, then 10% works, but if it's a place that I might not be back in a while, then I'll recommend changing at or close to tolerance because it's cheaper than replacing the motor later, and I know it won't happen otherwise.
The easiest way I've found to snap one back on is to put the belt on the smaller sheave first and then try to turn the bigger pulley, using the pulley as leverage, to get the belt back on. You could try riding the belt by starting on the top of the pulley and use the glove on the bottom side to pull the belt down, but apart from that there is no real tip I can supply to make it easier.
An instructor just got his dream job, brand new tools and a new truck. His first job he was in a large air handler. Long story short, he used a tool for the wrong purpose because he didn't want to go back to the truck to get the right ones. He lost 2 of his fingers, and lost the job. Others have been de-gloved, electrocuted... etc. Complacency Kills and safety is a habit.
For safety. Avoid connecting the circuit by using one hand. Protect yourself by using the less important hand. Stand off to the side to limit injury, and turn your head to protect your face/eyes. Also make sure you flip it fast.
Open up the cover and look at the disconnect. Check to be sure it is fully on when you are done. Look at the fuses, are they dark? Often the fuse blows because it got hot. If you can’t see the disconnect, put a padlock on it in the off position.
All fantastic tips! You actually covered a few that I have for future shorts too. I had a 3 phase 460 that had to be changed out on Wednesday because it would not fully engage anymore. It was a 40+ year old King International.
I agree, it's always good practice to keep a little bit in your bag! Thanks for sharing the tip! I use them mainly for the terminals that I can't get clips on, but I prefer the clips because it is much easier for me to verify, visually, that I have both before I leave a site. I can't count the amount of times I've had to go back to a job that's overheating ornovercooling because someone left their Alligator Clips or jumper wires on.
Ouch! Thanks for sharing! One tech had the wind take it and the panel did cartwheels across the rubber roof. It punctured the roof in several spots, but at least nobody was hurt. Stay safe out there!
Trying to fit everything into 15 seconds is a challenge, so things get left out sometimes. This particularly transformer is a 120v/24v step-down transformer. If your transformer size is different the basic premise still applies. If you supply the correct voltage to the transformer and it isn't outputting what it's supposed to, the transformer is at fault.
It's hard to cut these down to 60 seconds. Thinking about doing some longer videos on specific parts, how they operate, and how it would look on a wiring diagram.
@jose martinez with contactors you are going to see what the coil is supposed to be energized with. In this case it's a 24v AC coil. So to diagnose I use my meter to see if there is 24v between both sides of the coil. If there is, that means the contacts should be closed and allowing electricity to flow through. If the plunger still isn't pulled in, then the contactor coil is faulty and needs to be replaced. You can also get pitting on the actual contacts themselves, causing the contactor to chatter. You can even get contacts that won't open, so the contactor is allowing electricity even though the coil isn't energized. In any of those cases, the Contactor is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Yes! The other guys were giving me crap when we were working on a large attic project. Clearance was 3ft so you were crawling everywhere. Guess who was the only one not complaining about their knees at the end of the day? Haha
