I’m not getting the noise but noticed the rear differential was getting extremely hot. Rear differential oil is Burt and only takes about 5 miles to burn new oil. It’s at the dealer now and they are into the transmission last I knew, if Yamaha is going to do something I hope they do it soon before I drop a few grand on it. I’m hoping Yamaha can produce a machine that can last more than 1000 miles. Side note, my brother in law has the same machine and had to have his main bearing replaced at 800 miles
I know what failed on the Yamaha REAR half shafts MAKING ALL THAT POPING AND BANGING, EVERYTHING! POOR DESIGN POSSIBLY POOR MATERIALS POOR TOLERANCES & POOR MACHINING/GRINDING Yamaha’s configuration: The outboard joint is ONLY a rzeppa joint, No axial travel at all. (not a bad thing) The inboard IS A MODIFIED RZEPPA, allowing axial travel. I have not seen another implementation of this type of joint, though I would bet $$$ that if it could be made to work reliably, GM would have done it. Guess which one is making the noise! Footnotes: If you are familiar with the GM rzeppa design, you know that the inner and outer ball races are arranged in a cross axes pattern, canted. This configuration helps keep the balls in a plane called the homokinetic plane. GM also uses a cage to work together with the canted ball races to ensure the bearings stay well aligned within the homokinetic plane. By doing this, the joint becomes a ROBUST TRUE CONSTANT VELOCITY which has a long life in use. GM did everything else right too. Half shafts need a swivel joint on each end and a means to accommodate length change. GM chose to use a rzeppa on the outboard swivel joint and use something different, which they call a TRIPOT for the inboard swivel joint. The trypot is not a true constant velocity joint AND it cannot handle the torques and amount of deflection that the rzeppa can, but it is good enough to handle the demands of the job as drive shaft deflection angles on the inboard end are not large and it also collapses to perform the length changing requirements AND THEY DO IT for an exceptionally long life. BACK TO THE YAMAHA DESIGN: The outboard rzeppa will do GREAT in this application for many thousands of miles in all conditions expected in the ATV’s provided the design is correct, i.e. High precision, preloaded correctly and well lubricated. Yamaha’s implementation remains unproven for me, only time will tell. For the inboard swivel joint that Yamaha came up with, and presumably the same as the other ATV manufactures, it’s a compromised rzeppa. The ball races are PARALLEL TO THE AXIS OF THE SHAFT. This modification allows the inner race to travel up and down the outer race accommodating the shaft length change function. The consequences of this adaptation: The baring cage alone must keep the balls from falling out and traveling within the homokinetic plane. Theoretically, this should/would be fine, but in at least this case I can say Yamaha’s bearing tolerances don’t even come close to that of GM’s. There is actually zero preload on the bearings! The outer races don’t appear to be as polished as the inners, only contacting on the edges of the race channels. Also, both inner and outer races have dimples made by the ball bearing contact, like they don’t have the required hardness. Probably needed soft materials to handle the dynamic loads created by the lash in the bearings alone. Footnote; The rzeppa joints that GM manufactures are among the tightest tolerance assemblies, ANYWHERE. Even exceeding the normal high precision bearing tolerances. Back to Yamaha, I personally don’t believe Yamaha’s design had a chance at long life. Relying on the bearing cage alone to keep the balls in the correct location and loose fitting bearings without proper preload coupled with soft materials guarantees early failure. THEY WERE NOT DRY as some people suggested online! Quite the contrary! I can apply enough torque with my hands while telescoping the joint to feel the coggy bearings. YOU CAN SEE THE DENTS IN THE RACES WHERE THEY HAVE BEEN RIDING. This application needs true rzeppa joints on each end and a telescoping spline pair between them to accommodate the length change. APPEARANTLY, NO MANUFACTURE IS WILLING TO SPEND THE MONEY. CONCLUSION: I CAN EXPECT TO CHANGE HALF SHAFTS AT LEAST EVERY 2000 MILES. (THE COMPONENTS ARE NOT INDIVIDUALLY AVAILABLE, SO….)
Nice! Do you still have it? How it holds up? Would you recommend it? I found a couple of these in sale with a pretty good price and I'm tempted to buy one now..
I'm headed to pick up the same exact four wheeler right now in oklahoma.2002 black and silver decals.i have 3 already so im excited to get this one owner machine.love your video
got my 01 for 1500 runs smooth but the plastics and tank are painted plus a couple other issues, other then that this is an amazing bike you wont regret buying it especially if its in good condition cosmetically
Love it! Question man.. did you have to add any spacers or anything to the wheel to fit the forks? One guy said you had to swap out the wheel, but would rather keep it like yours
What looks like shit exactly? Sport mode is a throttle response setting. It has jack shit to do with the axle. I was in a off camber muddy hill and it wouldn't pull it. I locked the front diff and the axle couldn't take it. End of story. Yamaha didn't put axles in the early units that could handle the power. I have since moved into a X3. The rmax is a decent trail machine, that's it.
The exhaust is great for what I wanted. It's a lot deeper than stock, but not a ton louder. Their non RST model is quite loud. This unit also has a removable baffle that would probably make it a little louder.
@@jmac03black Thank you, that's helpful. One more question, is there a difference in the weight? My stock exhaust is pretty heavy. I'm looking for a lighter option.
It's the smaller can that Go Power sports sells. It's actually just zip tied in this video. I have a mount and a stainless u-bolt I haven't installed yet.
@@jmac03black ok also what kind of paint did you use to paint your bars i have the same ones unpainted and there starting to rust a little so i need advice lol
That's exactly what I spent my points on haha. Funny thing is, I got the 42k points for buying the truck, an xlt 3.5 ecoboost, but i immediately noticed a loud rattling noise on cold starts every morning, and after some back and forth, ford agreed to take my truck back. While at the dealership getting my trade-in back, we negotiated another truck, this time a 5.0l, and i went home with a new truck. I then got another 42k points and some extra "milestone" rewards for purchasing another vehicle on the same account. So now I have more stuff to buy accessories or service with.
@@jmac03black ours is named Freya. She was a rescue and a very sweet girl. I currently own a 1979 GS850 and a 1984 Goldwing Aspencade. Both bikes were not running when I got them. The GS sat for 25 years. Bought it off the first owners wife. Want to keep that and maybe sell the Honda to get into a dual sport for commuting and off road adventure. We shall see!
I have not decided if I will use this bike for long enough rides to change the tank. Right now my blast fire roads, and commute to work. If it turns into more of an off-road bike, and bigger tank is a must.
Hi I was debating between the drz400 and the dr650. I was planning on doing 75% road and 25% offroad. I want the bike to be offroad capable and not struggle at 60-70mph on back country roads. What bike do you think is better for me overall?
The DR650 is definitely a better road bike. The seat height is also lower depending on how tall you are, that may be important. If you won't be hard core off-road riding, I would say the 650. Both bikes are good bikes though.
I like the drz400 more for looks than the dr650. Also the drz400 would have the advantage on doing wheelies compared to the dr650. But based off of what you said the dr650 would be the bike for me.
You can get updated plastics that mirror the DRZ look. As far as wheelies, the added torque from the 650 on the low end makes wheelies fairly easy. Again, I think you would probably be happy with either bike. If you get the opportunity I would suggest riding both.
Trust me, I did the same thing on my 2020 DR650. I did a lot of mods before I started a channel. Congratulations on having a DR650! Great bike with lots of mods available. Cheers!
The drivetrain is all stock. If you are going to primarily run on fire roads and pavement, I would leave it alone. Right now the bike runs great all the way up to 80 for sustained speeds. The bike isn't straining at all. First gear is a little tall for tight wood stuff, but general trail riding is fine.
Don’t replace with stock if you are breaking them. go super atv rhino 2.0 or alternate brand if you prefer. As I understand it (not 100% confirmed) the stock axles can’t handle the angles the suspension can flex to and will bind and crack the cages that hold the ball bearings in the axle joints ,with just one side of the part cracked it makes noise and then just randomly blows apart driving down the road later on when the other side cracks through. Aftermarket have bigger bearing assemblies for strength and are cut to flex farther without binding. That said I’m at 2500 miles of basically rally racing mine and I haven’t put the better axles I bought in it yet so it’s totally hit or miss for people. It may be dependent on the drivers tendency to shock load the drive train with sudden throttle input.
When this was happening, I was one of the first units on RU-vid and in the south. There were no aftermarket or OEM units available. I have moved on from the buggy since.
My 2022 rmax4 1000 wolverine throw a rod on me yesterday put a 2" hole out the block it's at Yamaha dealer right now 6000km on it 260h any one else have any problems with the engine
