В России мы ставим электрический вентилятор от Mercedes W211 вместо штатного. Только к этому вентилятору требуется установка дополнительного блока управления.
The vent location allows the exhaust header heat to flow away from the engine. Headers are the hottest part. Knowing the rated CFM for the fan, calculate the CFM possible through those vents. This will tell you percent of redirected effective cooling available. I would try high volume 12 volt brushless computer fan(s) inside the hood, blowing out, to increase flow. Add a front pushing fan for better slow speed/crawling cooling? Do you have inside hood vent covers for winter snow/rain?
i have two of the 98 5.9 jeeps with those vents and they come stock with a baffle for that reason; though living in a top 5 snow city in the US. i’ve never had any issue with snow or rain when i took the baffles off. hope this helps!
getting the manifolds coated with heat wrap is really hard, and the ceramic coating seems null for a stock shiddy manifold. would be a large cost to buy headers (v8 jeep specific) to then go do one of those two options
Love that you’re giving a Dakar this kinda upgrade. I used race a 2003 Jamis Dakar XC Comp back in high school and it was a speed machine. All that said, watch for cracks on the chainstays around the weld closest to the main pivot and on the head tube.
I love going out with my bro that has a ZJ. He thinks it’s the same as my XJ but he’s constantly getting stuck because that thing was 550lbs more than an XJ. Different axles, different trans, different frame, they barely share any parts.
30x9.5 Will need a conversion chart but I think they’re close to what you’re looking at getting. I think it’s a good size for those jeeps! Thanks for the comment.
@@90sAdventure4x4s do you happen to have a link to this lift kit? I have a 98 grand cherokee and want to lift it but all I can find are like well over 1 grand.
I have a 92 that sat for year in a machine shed before i bought it. Changed brakes, rotors, tie rod bushings etc. Found out my death wobble was due to the front rubber brake line were rotting inside and partially collapsed which would not release.the right front brake cylinder fast enough thus keeping pressure on the rotor.
As a follow up to my comment. A guy with a different focus than myself, directed me to the fuel pressure regulator on the Sniper throttle body. It was completely plugged. I couldn't believe it. I was so focused on the pump that I didn't even think of the reg. It stopped all my pump overheating issues. I was getting no return to the tank and no fuel regulating at the Sniper. I haven't had an issue since.
On my early Bronco I have had this issue constantly. Can't drive it on hot days at all, or I'll be stranded. I also have considered an in tank pump, but I've also been told that the amount of constant flow with these systems is a problem. The fuel is sent to the Sniper and back to the tank collecting heat all the way. When this happens with me, the fuel pump vapor locks and the tank is hot to the touch. This has been a real frustration, as the time of year to have the fun is when it's a garage queen, making me consider putting the carb back on.
