Protip for those whose only two 18V batteries were BOTH dead after long storage: get two 9 volt batteries (still $5 for the pair at Wally world). Strip some wires to run a loop around the positive (male) terminal of one and negative (female) terminal of the other, then cover those terminals with some gorilla/electrical/etc tape to keep the loops in place). Then connect the two batteries in series (for 18V) by plugging them into each other, and use the leads charge the DeWalt batteries for 60 seconds. The positive terminal on the Dewalts is the one closer to the center of the battery. I had a portable drill tire hole patch that I couldn't do all day because neither battery would charge (quick flashing). I ultimately just carried the tire/wheel up to my apartment to use a corded drlll. Two 9V in series solved my problem, and as I literally own nothing else that runs on 9V batteries, those 9Vs are both going into the drill + charger's case just in case this ever happens again. I can accept batteries for tools only have ~500 use cycles, I can't accept that I only got 4-5 use cycles out of them in 10 years. And replacements for discontinued batteries/tools are just ridiculously overpriced.
Your examples are not exhaustive. The one I have is different both in terms of spine, mine is 20, and overall design. Still trying to figure where I could get my hand on one to fix my leak. Failing which I will try changing the washers. Thanks
If anyone has a DeWalt DW9116 charger and a digital multimeter take your leads from the tester and insert them into the charger directly on the terminals and please let me know what the max voltage output is. I cant get DeWalt customer support to support. They give as much support as a pair of boxer shorts.
This video was really educational and allowed me to speak intelligently to the parts suppler I deal with. For a DIYer ordering over the internet, this video is a slice of heaven. Thank you for a much needed tutorial.
Very educational! A family member ordered a complete set online and the diverter had too much stem on the base and no-one from the 2 giants (hd and lows) had any knowledge of the specifics. Was a complete waste of time and of course didn't carry this specific piece. I now have more than enough knowledge to shop the online store. Thank you
i just had the whole thing come flying out of the wall, water and all! Found the parts and manged to put all back together and repaired, thanks to this video which showed how that spring and washer worked. 🙂
I have two 18V Dewalt batteries that wouldn't take a charge and would flash "replace pack" on the charger. I took my two good batteries, made sure they were fully charged, and did this process. I went ahead and connected everything up with connectors on the wire ends except for the last connection. Both batteries started at around 2.4 V. It's amazing in just a few cycles how quickly they get up to 14+ V. Brought both batteries to just over 20V and then put them on the charger. When I checked back in 30 minutes, the charger indicated full charge. When I took them off the charger and put them in a tool, they worked fine. I can't say if they will last as long or not, but it's better than they were.
Hi Turbo Tim, I have a dilema with replacing stem cartridge for an old Pegasus Faucet. I know the right part number: 3S-11C and H. The problem is the cap to hold the stem completely crumbled and I am having a difficult time finding someone who actually carries these caps. Without the Caps the stems just shoot right out of the socket when I turn the water on. Your assistance is greatly appreciated!
Hello, Those caps are hard to get. If it uses a delta style cap then you might be in luck. Those are available on my site. We will need to get the measurements to see if it will work. www.faucetpartsplus.com
I love the truck man, I’ve got a crew cab Vortec Max that just ate up a built 4L70, would you by any chance remember what year the donor truck was that you got the 4L80 and T-case from? Really wanting to do an 80e swap but I can’t gather enough info. I’d sure appreciate it, thanks!
i have an 04 Colorado that is rust free that is my daily, and a 2000 Silverado with a 5.3 ls that is rusted out. if all goes well in the next 6 months i will be starting this swap. the only mechanical experience i have is working on my 3000gt vr4, mind if i contact you if i run into issues?
Sounds like a good idea to me. Stock truck one second, then open the cutout and not only will it sound cool but the exhaust flow should be more then enough to go be you some more power
Nice setup! I have the P1X also... you ever run the 4.5 pulley? If so, how much rwhp? Getting ready to install 95lb injectors and a booster pump... Looking to get 650-700 to the rear wheels on pump gas. Still on the Procharger CAN tune. Thanks for sharing!
@@delcitydummies The P1X stage 2 kit I have came with a 4.75 pulley. They say it's 8.5-9lbs. not sure. I think the 4.5 will get me at 650ish to the rear wheels.
Hi Tim, instead of buying new 18V dewalt batteries to restore the old dead ones, can I just series 3 new working 12V car batteries and still do the trick?
DON'T try to revive a lithium battery this way; you might be setting off a firebomb instead. Lithium battery chargers are programmed to reject batteries that have been discharged below 3.2 V/cell because of a risk of overheating If you've run a lithium battery down too far and the charger rejects it, you can try to slow charge it to 3.2 V per cell, then try putting it back on the standard charger. To slow charge, you need a power supply that can put out at least 3.2 Volts times the number of cells in the battery, but not more than 4.2 Volts times that number. For an 18 V lithium pack, that is 5 cells (3.6 V nominal x 5 = 18 V), so the range is 16 V to 20 V. Suppose you have discharged your battery to 14 Volts and it gets rejected by the charger. For a typical power tool battery, a safe slow charge rate may be about 100 mA, so (20V - 14V)/ 0.100A = 60 Ohms. 6 V * 0.1 A = 0.6 W, so you would need a 60 Ohm, 1 Watt resistor between the power supply and the battery. This current will decrease as the battery charges, so you can recalculate the resistor and replace with a smaller one to speed things up. Alternatively, you can use a 12 V incandescent instrument panel lamp instead (two in series if the difference between nominal voltage and measured voltage is more than 12 V), but monitor the battery very closely for hot spots or general overheating, especially during the first 20 minutes. Keep checking the battery voltage at least once an hour. If it stops increasing before it gets above 16.8 Volts, the battery may not be salvageable..
It only works 1-3 times on a particular cell. The internal separator membrane is damaged and worn out, so it's likely to short again, and will have reduced capacity in any case.
Hey Tim! New sub building a colorado myself. Just ordered mounts from current performance but saw where you used 98 s10 mounts. did you have to alter them at all?
Home Dumpo Expo had a lot of import shower valves, tub valves, roman tub valves, as well as faucets. They went belly up and all the aftermarket replacements are not Ca. lead-free compliant. So you find it then need to go to Arizona "one way or another to get it. Of course our actual water from the municipality has more lead in it than any of these parts ever did.
