I bought two of these that look identical. One will only work with a usb 3.0 port, the other one wieks on all usb. Both of these units I have tried have the same fault. When there is complex MIDI, using loads of polyphony old multiple channels. This causes hanging notes and even at random have crazy pitch bend issues. Mine shows 2 outputs, which o don't understand. Both outputs aeem ro do the same thing. Am I missing something, I don't understand why there are two outputs with just one cable
I'm afraid these MIDI interfaces are absolute rubbish! The input isn't even opto-isolated as per MIDI specifications. I would suggest you bin them and buy your MIDI interfaces from a known brand. I went with M-Audio and it has worked perfectly.
@TripplikitElectronics Plastic can be lubricated, but it requires a very careful choice of lubricant. A conventional oil or grease will act as a solvent against the plastic. Silicone and PFPE oils are generally safe on all plastics.
There are only 2 possible causes for the failure. Plastic expanding or Battery replacement method. Because the clock just sits on the wall there is no physical contact other than changing the battery. The rechargeable battery may have a larger diameter than non rechargeable which may push the contact off causing the loss of power. The 2nd clock must have cheaper plastic that's wearing or expanding. The magnet gear is not seating in the socket so its slipping. The replacement hands could be binding causing the magnet gear to wear the points causing it to jump the teeth. It may need a shim to hold it in place.
Thanks for the information. You sound a lot more knowledgable than me on these clock mechanisms. I shall certainly make use of your information on the next one I look at.
What typicaly kills them is the shaft piviots (bearings) wear loose to a point where the mechnism binds up and stops . I have seen people put a tiny drop of clock oil on these points and get them back running again, I have also seen the battery bars corrode make bad contact and stop them as well. but if the bearings are worn badly enougth oiling wont fix them . its important to note these mechnisums do come with the option of the threaded shaft that goes thorugh the clock face having a number of diffrent lengths , you can get them with the option of having a swinging fake pendulum, some tick off the seconds and that noise anoys some people , some run second hand smooth and dont tick as they operate ..
I always thought you shouldn't oil plastic bearings. Was I wrong? They are so cheap that once the bearings get worn it's probably best to just replace them. There are so many options available for quartz clock mechanisms it is quite hard to choose the correct one for your application. I must admit I've never had one with a fake tick or a fake pendulum!
The trimmer was the reason I was saving the shaver and I can’t see how to reattach it! X-D Edit: Never mind. Surprisingly simple, if fiddly. There’s another teeny tiny hole in the shaver itself that the spring needs to fit into. Then you line up the sticky-uppy bits on the shaver to the grooves in the trimmer and slide them back in.
Yes very fiddly. I managed to damage the spring on one of mine so the trimmer doesn't slide up and down very well. It still works though if I'm patient with it.
I got one that seems to work fine for a few weeks/months and then suddenly begins losing time. When I check the battery voltage, it's at around 1.4V (new one read 1.6V). I've cleaned the PCB with IPA and even touched up the solder joints with my iron. The gears don't seem to be dirty or look damaged. It's difficult to troubleshoot since I have to wait potentially weeks or months to see if what I did made any difference. Not really sure what's up with it.
They are so much built down to a price it's probably poor assembly or a poor quality part wearing out early. Look like you've tried everything to repair it so you'll probably just have to replace it.
All I would warn people off is to be carefull of that centre spring other springs cap pop out and its fine if that centre spring hits you the edges are sharp and it can slice skin under the tension its at. Other than that have fun.
Yes, there is a fair amount of energy stored in the main spring. Though the most likely cause of failure it the main spring breaking so there won't be any tension on it when disassembling. You're right though - care is needed when reassembling.
I have got a problem with my clock, the second hands got ticking then it have stop ticking and the time are going really fast. Do you know why? I have been advised to replace all of these gears which I don't think I would need to?
I have never heard of that problem before! It would probably be cheaper to replace the clock mechanism rather than buy new gears. I would actually be very surprised if you could find new gears to buy.
Na maioria das vezes o problema é só de mau contado na saída de alimentação das placas para as ferragens de suporte das pilhas. Pode-se acertar o contato, colocando novamente a pressão adequada ou soldando um fio na saída da placa para a ferragem, usando ferro de soldar com potência acima de 40W e um bom fluxo de solda. Saudações do Brasil 🇧🇷
Hiya. Really interesting clip. I want to do roughly the same, but have two LED strips, like yours, top and bottom of a custom splashback I want to illuminate, utilising the extractor hoods lighting circuit. I have wired in the driver box to the two LEDs and just need to wire the driver live and neutral into the hoods lighting circuit. How did you determine the correct wires to use in the hoods wiring block?
Our cooker hood has a rather poor mains light built in. I used a mains power supply for my LED strip and just took the mains from across this light. The original light switch could then be used to turn the new light on and off.
Cleaning those pressure electrical contact tabs should go a long way toward making the clock reliable. if you don't have contact cleaner...then rubbing alcohol and a paper towel will do it.. dry with the a paper towel because it is mildly abrasive which is good.
Perfect! I didn't know how the electro-magnetic mechanism worked...only that there is the quartz crystal controlled oscillator. Now I can set about taking my old LL Bean ( seiko) moon phase mecanism apart. It "fibbulates) instead of doing a full tick...so maybe clean and lube will do it. Thumbs Up !
Thanks for sharing the video. I had exactly this same issue in my Dremel 3000 and have seen hundreds of Dremels in the internet with this issue of broken wire. It seems to be a design issue.
I'm with Octopus and they are currently paying 15p/KWh exported. From the last 2 years data I have, the payback for the 4.2Kwh peek system I have looks to be in the region of about 5.5 to 6.5 years. I currently do not have a battery, so I sell as much over production as possible back to Octopus, and then use any heavy appliances during off-peak (E7) as we are currently paying less for off-peak (13.31p/KWh inc. VAT) than Octopus pays us to export (15p/KWh). And.. You defiantly export in winter, between November 22 and April last year I got paid almost £65 for electricity I exported. Plus, (as already pointed out) you also have to take into consideration the cost (including the vat) saving of your self-consumption as if you had purchased it.
The reason we would get such a poor rate for exporting solar energy to the grid is that we have an EV tariff which allows us to charge our car for 7.5p per kWh during the night. The down side of this is that we would only get 8p per kWh for exported energy. As for exporting energy in the winter - maybe I got my calculations wrong. I will check them again when I come to do part 2.
@@TripplikitElectronics No problem, I realized after I posted you wouldn't get 15p export due to being on the Go tariff and meant to edit my post but forgot!!
Hi, I had Solar installed back in 2022 (6KW), just before the energy prices exploded, and you do export in winter, because as you said, when your not at home, its just pumped out to the grid, I then had a battery installed 6 months later, and the self consumption rate (winter) went from 60% to 98%, as the battery is charged during the day, and even in winter, on a bad day, will still charge it to about 50%. One thing to consider when working out payback, is also treat your self as an energy supplier to yourself, so the electric you use, calculate how much that would cost, and include vat too, I have worked out my break even point at about 5.5 years for my system, not the 10+ years you have suggested. my solar array is a SE/NW orientation system, both sides of roof is covered.
are they wort it yes with the taxpayers money , from your own money and making it compleet that it runs your home complete no it is useless to dat it can be good but tomorow it is a waste of money nothing is forever.
I ran into this weird problem when replacing the batteries, The LED on the board blinked red and the motor was constantly running. I noticed that the contacts on the replacement batteries are a abit longer than the old original Braun batteries, so there might be a problem there. (A short maybe?)
I had to "adjust" the battery contacts to get standard AAs to fit. Also, I have another identical shaver on the boat. Changed the batteries in that and it was acting strange (can't quite remember how). In the end I found that one of the batteries I had put in was duff. Something to check?
@@TripplikitElectronics The batteries were brandnew, so I guess its unlikely they were damaged or unuaable. I did notice a faint burnt smell coming from the board, so I think there might be a damaged component.
Thanks so much for posting this detailed video - I had the same issue with a detached piece of wire and fixed it as you showed by soldering some more wire to make the connection again. Delighted 😊
Thank you very much for this video. It was very useful. I had trouble releasing the door seal. It has to be lifted up to get it over the lip. All ok now !
@@TripplikitElectronics Initially I was trying to pull the seal edge towards me. That didn't work because the seal goes over a lip. Lifting it, then pulling it worked. No gung involved !
I think I get more comments on these MIDI interfaces than any other video. I say every time - they are absolute junk! I suggest you buy one from a known brand - mine's M-Audio.
it is very strange. I have the 2710, and the display is so flashy, I even find it a bit annoying when I work with it in the dark late at night :) What is a bit dissapointing with this unit, is that the current measurement is very bad for low currents. I work a lot on SMD and below 10mA this unit will still show 0.
I also used an earlier model at work with a nice bright display. That is part of the reason I was so disappointed with the dim display on this one. I guess the just decided blue is "trendy". The current measurement on mine seems to be fine at low currents but you could always put a multimeter in series with it.
@@TripplikitElectronics I can't imagine why, it's lightweight & powerful with a good range of speeds. On the down side, they do go wrong perhaps more than most. I have had at least 2 faults with mine, like a cut field coil connection & faulty speed control.
thanks! i repaired my dremel doing the continuity test. the enamel wirings ends seems to break easily if the the motor got stuck. unfortunaly i had to solder those wires directly to the metal connector. we have to watch out to not let solder into those 4 connectors cavities, if so, the head piece won't fit correctly.
