Welcome These projects are for those who have very little knowledge about many items around them.Here one can find many DIY PROJECTS regarding Electrical, Electronics and Other useful items around us. Background music credits to www.bensound.Com Intro video credits to www.canva.com Video editting credits to kinemaster Maximum design in projects are our own but to get inspiration is human tendency. Children should not recreate these projects without elders or expert advice. KEEP AWAY ELECTRICITY AND SHARP TOOLS OR ITEMS #projects #homemadeprojects #lowcostprojects #diyprojects #diy #k-techzone #ktechzone #ktech
Mine has every icon lit black and 288. Test voltage in LCD and it's 3.## volts on all pins. Bought newer version that has smaller chip under LCD. That voltage is 1.## volts. I guess it should be 1v and not 3v on LCD?
Hi ,mere pas same vala solar charger he or usme solar ka positive socket chal raha he magar nagative me connect karne k bad display me kuch nahi aa raha magar negative wire ko battery k negative socket me laga te he to display on ho raha he.solution please.
these chargers (even though they are not MPPT) are not bad at all. For most small scale applications they are even pretty damn good actually. If you have one with a temp sensor even better... PWM charging has become the bad guy in recent years but in actual fact they are still very usefull. MPPT is very nice to be able to squeeze out every last little amp from your solar setup but in reality the added efficiency does not outweigh the massive cost differences. Only in very large solar setups (3-5kWpeak solar arrays) becomes a MPPT charger into it's own but for most peoples off grid cabin, shed, RV, remote equipement (like pumps in a well or a animal feed station of sorts) and most test setups involving 1-1.5kW of solar paneling you can go for the more budget friendly PWM charging. These guys as so cheap (but not crappy or badly made) you can have one on hand in case your current one fails for some reason. In most cases failure is because of heat. The internal electronics gets hot (obviously) and needs to get rid of the heat. The back panel is supposed to provide some heat sink but this proves insufficient. To remedy this you can for one replace the back panel with aluminum plate (a bit costly and a hassle to be honest) but more effectively you can employ two aluminum pan scrubbers and some long 2 inch screws and some plastic tubing to stand off the controller from it's mounting board with the scrubbers squeezed behind them providing some added heat sink. Especially the higher current ones can even benefit from a small pc fan (which can run on the 5V usb power available from the front of the controller) If you like a larger setup you can divide up your larger solar array electrically into 2-3 chunks (simply add the max. current at the panel's maximum power together (add about 25% for some safety margin) till you hit the maximum amperage the controller can handle) can handle (this example (30A) and connect them in parallel to the same battery(bank). This is a little known fact of electrical know how but it is a very sensible way of saving money and at the same time build in some redundancy into a possibly critical system (you know you don't want the well pump to cut out because your single charge controller stopped working and now your animals are without water or the veggie garden isn't been watered. A 30A controller like this one should be about to handle 3 common available 255 Wp panels in parallel. Do not put panels in series because most of them will over voltage the controller even at moderate sun/output. 3 in parallel should work and for every 10 A of rated current you can ad another in parallel.
