When adjusting both limit screws, do you screw in both barrel adjusters on the shifter and rear derailleur? If you have 3 front chainrings (24 speed) which front gear, do you shift it in when adjusting the limit screws?
Hi, thank you for your questions. So, the limiter screws have no impact on the cable tension. The limiter screws only "tell" the derailleur the range in which it can operate, so it stops it from extending or compressing too far. Ideally, you would set the limiter screws before you start fine tunning the cable tension to the derailleur, but you can do it after, or you can fine tune it after. My recommendation: 1 - without the cable installed on the derrailleur, move the derailleur with your hand and set the top and bottom limiter screw (this will prevent the chain from going into the spokes). 2 - install the cable, and use barrel adjusters to fine tune the gears. 3 - check limiter screws again and ensure they are done right. For your 2nd question: For the limiter screws I would use the outside gears in the front, meaning if I'm adjusting the top limiter screw, the one that prevents the chain from going into the spokes, I would use the smaller chainring in the front, closest to the frame. For the bottom limiter screw, use the larger chainring, further away from the frame. Hope this help! Let me know if you have more questions
@@cyclinggrandtour Before you install the cable to fine tune. Do you screw both barrel adjusters all the way clockwise at the shifter and rear derailleur?
@@deltafour1212 Yes, you can do that. Usually I screw it all the way in, and then do half turn the other way, just in case you anchor the cable too tight for some reason, then you can come off on the barrel adjuster without having to re-do the cable again.
Hi! This is an excellent tutorial, I'm a newbie to these stuff so when on big chainring my rd couldn't shift to biggest cog and the smallest cog but anywhere outside that the shifting is smooth as butter, but when on smallest chainring all gear shifting is so smooth (rd can clear from smallest to biggest cog without issue) any idea how to fix that? Thanks!
Hi! What drivetrain are you using? I know some electronic drivetrains don't allow for steep cross chaining. Let me know what you're using and I'll try to diagnose what issue you might have. Cheers
Hmmm that is a peculiar issue. My first thoughts it that the chain might be too short - that would explain the chain not getting into the big cog when on the big chainring, but not the issue you have on the small cog. Another idea might be limiter screws, or old outer cable, but because you have full range on the small chainring, this might also not be the case. If the cassette is too worn out, that can also make shifting harder, or if the chain is worn. Unfortunately, I can't think of one exact reason why you are having those issues. Perhaps look at the above and go one by one, and try to find the culprit? Best of luck!
@@cyclinggrandtour well after i keep tweaking it to the best i could i decided to take it for a ride, what i found is that from big chainring i can shift to biggest cog but it's a bit slow and creates ticking noise before making the shift and i also can shift to the smallest cog but it's also creates ticking noise no matter what i do with the barrel adjuster
As for the chain's length i can safely assume that it's adequately sized, cables are also fairly new (i have put 2k km on them) chain is brand new (less than 500km) idk about cassette because i got it second hand along with the rest of the groupset, i replaced the chain immediately with the one i currently using, it looks pretty good and considering the previous owner said he's "barely using it." I should probably keep tweaking with the limiter screws and the barrel adjuster, there's something i probably missed, thanks for the replies!
Sorry to rain on this parade, but at 3:15-35 you are shifting DOWN, not up. More important, Shimano derailleurs NEVER make the first shift to the second highest cog (one gear down) "with a little bit of struggling", or even a lot. My recent Ultegra 11 speed won't do it on a single shift no matter how much tension I put on the cable. (Yes, the cable is good.) Shimano's faulty designs cannot be remedied or even hidden by 'experts' shilling for them.
I might have gotten the wording wrong, but I'm happy it still made sense for you watching. On the issue you're having, it seems to be that it might be the limiter screw that is not allowing you to go into that gear. I've been running Shimano Ultegra on a few different bikes and never had that issue. Have you had a bike shop look at that?
Hi Steve, If you're having issues getting into a heavier gear, that makes me think it might be an issue with your derailleur hanger. If you recently had a crash or had the bike fall on the gear side, it might have bent the hanger inwards, towards the spokes. If this is the case, be very careful getting into the lightest gear, or gear #1, as the chain might fall in between the cassette and spokes, causing serious damage to the chain, spokes, derailleur, and even potentially the bike frame. If in fact the hanger is bent, you can try to bend it back, but experience tells me to just buy a new one as they are fairly cheap, when compared to the cost of having to replace the derailleur, chain and others... Start by visually inspecting the derailleur hanger from the back and seeing if it looks perfectly straight. Let me know what you find
@@stevenwarne2023 I see. My next recommendation would be to check the cables, both inner cable and outer cable. The inner cable is easy to replace, and cheap to do. The outer cable, especially because it's an e-bike, would have to be done at a local bike shop. If the inner cable has a kink somewhere along the cable, it creates "false-tension" on the cable, and may be the culprit for the mis-shift. Give that a go and let me know if that works. Best of luck!
Thank you for an amazing video with detailed explanations. I have one question, what is the name of a bike stand that you are using? Where did you buy it?
Hi! Thank you for the kind words. I was using the Topeak flashstand. I bought it a few years ago in Australia from Bikes Online. Not sure if they still carry it. Hope this helps!
OMG. Superb video. Following other videos made things worse but this one put everything right. Made myself a methodical procedure list and hey presto! Thank you so much.
"Cable" as in gear cable? Can be internal gear cable, like the steel cable that operates the derailleur, or is can be the outer cable, that guides the cable through the frame. Let me know if that helps
Great video, very simple, easy to understand, and most importantly concise! I think we all hate those "Hey guys, welcome to the channel, just before we start..." types who ramble on and on for 25 minutes :D I wanted to ask a quick question about a weird issue I'm having. I can shift fine about basically the whole cassette (105 11-spd) however if I want to shift up from 4 to 5, it has a lot of trouble making the shift. If I give it two clicks and jump to 6 that's fine and I can then shift down to 5 again and no worries - this is mostly just a nuisance but unfortunately my natural tendency is to ride in this range and often I end up wanting to ride a little bit of a harder gear, failing to shift to 5, having to shift to 6 and drop down, and it ruins my cadence since 6 is too hard a gear to drive. Any idea what could be the issue? Brand new cassette and essentially a brand new chain/derailleur etc - maybe 6 months old when this problem first appeared - so I think any cable-stretch and initial 'bedding-in' wear has already happened
Hi there, sorry for the delay in response. From my experience, when all the gears are perfect, but then the gears in the middle of the cassette are not great, that generally points to a very slight bend on the derailleur hanger. If you have a spare one handy, you can swap them out in a couple of minutes and see if that's the issue. If not, you can ask at a bike shop to check the derailleur hanger. The other option is that the outer cable can have dirt inside, but that would compromise all gears, not just 1 or 2... Let me know if you find out what the issue is. I'm curious now :)
@@cyclinggrandtour No worries, we've all got busy lives to lead! Thanks for taking the time to reply I'm afraid I still don't know what the issue is really - I've re-indexed the gears and the last time I rode (it being winter in the UK makes it less than inviting to cycle right now) they were functioning very well. I don't know what I did to fix it exactly but happy they seem to be working much better than they used to. I'm thinking you may be right regarding the hanger as when I indexed the gears the jockey wheels didn't seem to be in an exactly vertical line with the cassette gears. Possibly this was just the way I was looking at it, or even the way my glasses warp my vision slightly and can make straight things appear ever so slightly curved. Either this or there was a small sticking point on the gear cable somewhere that meant tension wasn't quite released properly for that specific 4/5/6 range. I think in Springtime I will take my bike in for a full service, as it probably could do with having the hydraulics bled soon, and I'll ask them to have a little look at the gears and see if they can figure it out.
Well, glad to hear it's working now hahahaha well done! :) Yeah, the jockey wheels and how they line up can be misleading sometimes, but you might be onto something there. I like your plan. Springtime, just before you start to put in some serious miles, get it checked out and they should be able to spot what the issue was. Thanks for getting back to me :)
Hi there! What do you mean by that? You want it always on the easiest gear? Or the heaviest gear? You should be able to just select your gear on the handlebar shifter, no?
Haha It does take a little bit of patience and time to get it. Don't give up now. Start from scratch, as if you were doing everything for the first time, follow my steps, and read the video description for FAQs. Good luck!
Very well done, sir! Thank you! I was completely baffled before I watched this. I just followed step by step and it's shifting perfectly! And I didn't have to take it in and pay somebody to do it it was easy and quick. Good job buddy
I’m enjoying the bike so far ru-vid.comUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Hey! The bike shop will probably tell you this, but hydraulic disc brakes, with a larger rotor will improve your braking performance a lot! For the pedals, the straps are pointless. If you ever go down the path of clipless shoes, keep in mind that most brands have narrow toebox shoes. Look into Lake shoes or Sidi shoes for wide fit. Hope this helps!
Your identification of limit screws is the opposite of other videos. And you use both for adjustments to one gear? After watching several videos, it's obvious techs have their own methods and descriptions of parts and gears. For example, I don't want to hear high or low gear --they're often relative terms. I want to hear the gear number so that it corresponds to my shifter indicators.
Hahahaa I'm okay with you flipping me the bird haha The video is a few years old and derailleurs have changed, compared to the 2023 Shimano derailleur. It's normal for the limiter screws to be in different places in a derailleur, within the same brand or on different brands. The limiter screw is influenced by the geometry to the derailleur and how the cage moves when you add or remove cable tension using the shifter. Some limit screws are on the back of the derailleur, like you see on this video, others are on the side, or bottom. It can be tricky to understand what screw does what, high or low. My recommendation, is to take the cable out of the bolt, let the derailleur rest on the lowest gear (the small cog) and then screw in each bolt to see what happens on the derailleur. If you start screwing in one of the screws and the derailleur starts moving, you know that's the low limit, and the other screw will be the high limit. Let me know if this helps!
the b screw goes in and out on my old 10 speed but it doesnt seem to do anything with changing the tension or proximity to the cassette. perhaps theres a spring thats worn out?
Hi My guess is that your chain might be too long, and if that's the case, the b-screw would not be able to add any tension to the derailleur/chain. Chains stretch over time and it's not uncommon for people to remove a link from a well used chain to shorten it and give back some tension to the system. Select your smallest cog in the back and smallest chainring on the front and see if the bottom of the chain bows down, floppy style. If that's happening, then the chain would be too long and could be improved by removing a link out. Let me know if this helps!
@@cyclinggrandtour thanks for reply, no the chain does not droop down, it is brand new chain, groupset and bike, sat in a box for 11years. heres a video on my Channel please advise. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-76g5Fc-qXFs.html
The mount is done in a way that only the rear wheel lifts up, but that's just based on weight balance, so you could just add more weight to the rear wheel and the front wheel will lift up. Hope that makes sense?
@@cyclinggrandtour I bought a smart trainer, put an 11 speed cassette on it. Struggling with the gears. Loud and cracking noise. Brought the bike and trainer to Halfords where I bought trainer. They couldn't fix it either. I think I need a new cable. Thanks for the reply
@@Bjj900 that's a tricky one. Do you also use that bike whilst not on the trainer? If yes, does it do the same sounds? If yes, then the problem would be on the bike, but if no, the problem might be the trainer. If you only have that problem on the trainer, perhaps check the unit and see if anything is loose, like bolts, cassette, feet, stabilizing arms, and so on. Try to also calibrate the trainer and make sure the resistance is consistent and you're not getting any spikes in pressure. Lastly, check that the cassette has been installed correctly. It might need a spacer, or you might need to remove the spacer. If the noises persist when you're not on the trainer, then it would be the bike. The noise you describe can only come for a few selected places on the bike. Try to check the headset (no play), check the pedals (especially if the sounds only happens in a specific rotation point), and check the bottom bracket of the bike (this one you might need a bike shop to look into it). I would also check the seatpost and saddle if the noise persists. A dab of grease on the seatpost sometimes is enough to make it quiet. Let me know if any of this helped. Quite curious to hear from you on what the issue was. Good Luck
