Its the cable connector....not the cable! Especially occurs with the E93 convertible, where rainwater in the rear battery box corrodes away at the cable end connector at the feedthru bolt. Repair by crimping on a new cable end. (Never too late to add a comment, for the next person, because these problems are inevitable, especially when most of the car is capable of running 200K miles)
I can’t get the cable Off my fuse box , i ordered a new fuse box and same thing , the cable is stuck on that too, how do i get the cable out of the fuse box
The fuse can get so hot that it practically melts to the fuse box. Seems like thats what you have going on. I'm surprised the new one has that issue. I guessing its used box that was taken out. I don't have a good solution for you. I guess if you have the second box out of the car your could see if you can gut away the old wire. You just want to be carful not to damage the fin that the wire connects to.
Hey Malcon! I'm having the same issue, so i'm gonna replace the cable. I've tried removing the glove box, but there's a small electric cable that runs to the glove compartment lock that i can't disconnect. Did you have do remove any excess panels to get to this cable?
I’m having a hard time recalling. I think I just took off the glove box door and the inner panel in the back. You really just need to access the fuse box underneath. If you can’t take the door off you may be ok… sorry I don’t think this is that helpful…
Did you meaaure the length of the cable. I dont see a reason to have to buy cables for full price when all you need is a crimped connector (electrician speaking)
For all the drama it was to find all the screws holding the fuse box in it pisses me off that they use a friction fit and not just another bolt to hold it in
Hello malcon, I’m french so I didn’t understand very well English . I think I have the same problem on my car! And it’s just horrible it’s been 5 month that I’m looking for the problem. So I just want to be sure that I understand the video 😁. So you think it’s better the change the cable , so to have a new one to have more connection? Because I have the same symptoms 😖
If you have those same symptoms I'd change the cable. Thats probably going to be the problem. A good way to check is to take out the panel in the back of your glove box (or find access to the bundle of wires coming out of the fuesbox (behind glove box in the E90/92/93) and when your car has the symptom of no power, you want to reach in try and wiggle that bundle of wires around. If that causes the power to come back. I'm confident that this is your issue. Keep us posted!
I haven’t had it happen while driving. It’s safe to say that if this happened while driving that would be less than ideal. I haven’t heard about it happening to folks on the road though, so that’s good.
I have an e90 and thought it was just me I spent money on fuses alternators pumps etc but I'm gonna def try this just wanna make sure I get the right parts
@@onyx332886 worth a shot. If you get a dead car its probably the issue. If you have any electrical (not counting the alarm) its probably a good thing to take a look at. I"d reachout to ECS tuning and see what they suggest.
I just had Budd's BMW of Oakville Ontario, Canada do this recall on my M3 convertible, and my glovebox does not open any more (only with a key) and I am getting a constant (battery disconnected )error message on my iDrive and the clock keeps resetting which it never did before. Should have not let them touch my car. Had I seen this before, I would have done it myself at a later time, there was nothing wrong with the car prior, so pissed me right off. They did the airbag recall so they told me they had to do this one as well. Taking it back to them but with the COVID crap, not sure when they will get to it. Great video BTW, will come in handy if I end up doing this myself at some point due to dealer incompetence. Thank you!
Al Zedder you know what, I’d save the hassle and take care of it yourself. The clock reset alone is a tell. I’d also be curious what they did to “fix it” I doubt they did anything at all actually...
@@eminenceo3 you could be right, they may have unplugged the main wire from the fuse panel, seen there is no corrosion and plugged it back in (half ass) and now I have a problem I did not have before. I booked the car in for this coming Tuesday so I just want to see what they will say. Going to ECS Tuning right now to source the correct cable like you did. Thanks.
hello, very good video! Could you just give me the part number of the black connector? I would then just change only the plug. Or what is the name of the connector to the battery plus - fuse box?
Dailylawstyle Dailylawstyle the connector from what I could find, only comes with the cable. You could splice just the end of the canoe to the old one but it seems like your opening more chance for something going wrong. Best of luck!
Does anyone know if this applies to a 2006 330i? Just bought the car and it will be drained after a couple hours. Replaced battery same thing. Did a draw test getting about an 11.0 amp draw with everything locked and off with trunk latch closed. Pulled fuses 1 by one draw doesn’t change. Pulled every fuse and relay off fuse box same thing. Only thing I’ve been able to do is pull 1 positive cable off battery terminal. Not the main 1 to post but the second one held with a 13mm nut that stops the draw
I should add that while running getting a steady 13.8 volts no power loss at all. No dash lights. And my comm box / stereo module thing in trunk is missing all connectors are fine wrapped up cleanly
If it’s draining power that may be a different issue. This is a poor connection to the battery because of a worn out connection to the fuse box. So the car acts like it has zero power then randomly regains power. A way to check this is next time your car loses power, open your glovebox and grab the wires to the rights and shake them until power returns... I know it sounds dumb but if it’s the faulty connection, you can wiggle it back to gain contact... in the glovebox you’ll need to remove the inner liner to be able to access the fuse box... I hope that helps!
Great video buddy. I have the recall for this. But I am little skeptical dropping the car to the dealer since I have a meticulous condition e93 and I do all the maintenance. But I dont think they will give me the cable free just because it's under recall :) But it seems fairly easy job. I read some reviews and one guy had a issue after dealer fixing the cable and car didnt power up. They went back to dealer and dealer said DME needs to be replaced:) I also have blower recall as well. Did you get the parts urself to do the DIY?
SaNGRia thanks! I just ordered the replacement from ECS tuning and tackled it in the garage. My guess is that the dealership would make it a bigger deal than it is and probably not put the car back together properly. That’s just my 2 cents...
@@eminenceo3 Well Dealer people knows me cuz I never drop my car off to them other than recalls and my car in mint condition inside and out. So I wrote a letter to Technician with a little bit money in it and dropped the vehicle for the recall , They gave me a loaner VW Jetta? and they called me in 3 hours saying that car is ready. Because I was gonna do the PDC retrofit, I have looked at their work while I was removing the Fusebox, they did pretty good, but not like yours cuz u used the hole cable, they cut my existing cable and extended with their new cable. I have just done the Front/Rear PDC retrofit. And everything in good working condition. Thank you again for the great video!
Great video! Thanks. I have a E87 the cable runs under the car(I think) The shop wanted 2100$ to replace it. Do you know where that cable runs on mine? The hard part is getting UNDER the car:P Where's the cheapest place to get the cable? It should be 4 1/2 meter for me.
I’m not sure how your car is set up, but I bet you could run it through the interior if you wanted to. I’d get it through ecs tuning. Just make sure the connector is right for your fuse box. Seems like it should be the same for all models but you never know. Good luck!
Dear sir What were your symptoms ? I had a full power cut out on the highway for few seconds. Another time when I parked I had sudden cut out and I was unable to retrieve the key out or do anything. When I shut the door hard the electricity came back. Seems like loose or faulty jbe b+ cable
malcon pierce I’ve got the same problem with my e92 320i 2009, I took my car to BMW for the recall, they did the recall but the problem came back, sometimes when I lock or unlock my car the alarm goes off and I can’t do anything to stop it, I open the door with the metal key and I insert the keyfob into the car but it doesn’t take it ( doesn’t lock in place) , I have to wait until the car works again, sometimes it’s 5/10 minutes and sometimes it’s 24hours before I get the power back, it’s a real pain in the ass because I don’t know when it will cut off... I even tried to charge the car with the + from underneath the hood but that didn’t have any effect. Do you think this solution will help with my problem ?
That’s exactly your problem. The good news is you can fix it and save a lot of money. If your ever in a situation where you don’t have power, open the glove box (you may have to remove the panel inside the glove box but I think it comes out with a few twist connectors) and reach back to the right side of the fuse box and grab the large wire loom and just shake it! Haha you just need to shape the fuse box so the contact re-engages with the positive terminal wire. 👍
Thank u Malcon i am in process now (e93) 325i 2009 , the car losses (+) suddenly and no power at all in any thing , opened the car with the key and went to the fuse box, did a test with a test lamp on the large fuses( no + ) , went in engine compartment to check for (+) in jumping terminal and there is a (+) present , so i knew the fuse box is the problem cuz of lack of (+) in it, just removed the glove box and shacked the red (+) cable going into the fuse box a little bit and suddenly everything come back on again, this way i knew for sure it's a battery cable (+) problem and need to be replaced and went to bimmer forums and google to do a research and that how i got here . this link helped also : www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f3/e90-e92-b-cable-battery-fuse-box-connection-repair-guide-t461658/ credit goes to the posters
I’m curious if you could share more of the symptoms that you experienced. I feel like this may be my problem… I have an intermittent issue where there is no power at all to anything. But without jiggling anything it will sometimes come back on it’s own. Thanks for the video
Yep that's what your experiencing. I had the same thing happen... It would randomly loose power, and the alarm would go crazy.... I couldnt jump it because that wasnt the issue... and randomly it would resume operations. It kept getting worse... so it got to a point where every time I'd leave work I'd have to grab the terminal and shake it.
Thanks for the reply. I’ve always had the door open when it happens. I’ve never tried manually opening the door with the key to see if the alarm goes off. Unless it’s powered from something other than the fuse box I’m not sure how it would get power to make any noise...am I missing something?
@@E59FF you have to drop the fuse box. Also.. if your needing to wiggle the wire before you do the fix. (parkinglot fix) then you want to take out the glove box panels so you can reach the loom...
omar k you either have the new style “Plug-In” Style power feed to the Fuse Box(JB) or you have the old style which uses a more convential way. The fuse box has a threaded stud and the positive wire has a thru bolt flat connector, and the ring style connector slides around the stud and then, tightens down with a nut. Similar to a boat/marine battery with a bolt/wing nut style wire connections.. pre- 09/2007 has the old style 09/2007 + newer- new style prone to failure. This is the style shown in this video
Anthony G thanks for the in depth reply , appreciated my friend ! i phoned bmw and because the car in its past history was owned by a foreign embassy in london it was always taken to the dealership , they told me the car had been in to them in the past on a recall , the particular part was replaced ! so i asked the guy y d fuk ami still experiencing loss of electricity or total loss of power , only after opening the glove box and taking back cover off and put my arm in and push the fuse firmly did it all start working again . i asked the guy was the recall done for the fuse box connector for a like for like part or was it the new upgraded part , he said i can't tell you i havnt got that information on my computer , he said either pay for a diagnostic and book it in or get it done privately , i said il get diagnostic but if it's the part that is at fault again then i would like to be reimbursed with the money i paid fir diagnostic and the proper upgraded part fitted free of charge ! he just kept saying the car had been recalled and the connector was dealt with ! basterds!! i couldn't give a fuk about the battery cable , i just like to know if i can buy a kit or a new upgraded connector myself or where to purchase it from , the car is a 2008 325d coupe semi auto !sorry for long reply !
@@ally_vc the old connection can sometimes fuse to the fusebox. In the worst case situation, you'll need to purchase a new fuse box case. The connection should just slide and clip over the + terminal.
malcon pierce Thanks. That's exactly what happened. I found a way to separate the clip. I had to open the fuse box and fight it out, only because the owner won't be able to get one anytime soon.