Thank you all for your replies. I did think spider webs. I have had the camera up since late February and not seen anything like this on the camera. I did wave some thin fishing line pulled straight in front of the lens but did not get the same effect ? This line was 0.08mm so much thicker than spider web. At the beginning of the video is a bright shape that moves downwards very fast and blocks out the hedge leaves. 👍
@ :27.......... & again @ :39 Clearly, this is what we refer to as Lens flair. From a light source 90 degrees to the right @:27 and then 90 from the left @ :30.... See how both the top and bottom of the flair curve to the right at the top... Following the curvature of the Lense. The flair always presents on the opposite side of the lense. Nice shot though :)
I am having no confidence and difficulty removing the second bearing. This video has given me more confidence to complete the job. I like this machine - it is very convenient and well-designed. I have a Bamix which is great but can be slightly messy - still good though. I don't think the Bullet is good for making hommus as it is too gluggy - I will stay with the Bamix for this. UPDATE: I finally found a bearing store in Wingfield that had the correct size. In other stores, you had to wait two weeks- out of stock- plus a postage charge to get them interstate. I carefully pressed them back in using a vice. Works like a dream now and is a lot quieter. Unfortunately, the bearings didn't last long - you need heavy-duty types - I was sold cheap ones.
Just order a new part. Trying to get it apart is near impossible without breaking it. Save yourself some time and a headache and just buy a new blade base.
These rubber sealed bearings are a standard size part #698 - 2RS. I bought a pack of 10 from Fast Eddy Bearings (in the USA if I recall correctly) in 2019 @ $1.20 per bearing part #TFE 212. Fast Eddy also had a stainless steel bearing for $10 per bearing. SS next time for me. Karl
Ojalá fuera tan sencillo sacar esos dos baleros.. esas aspas de Nutribullet, están hechas para cambiar completas . Y no se diga cuando se pega el perno de las aspas al balero . No hay forma de quitar. .. ni con prensa de 20 ton, pude quitar aspas sin dañar el cuerpo plástico. No hubo lubricante que aflojara..
Only do this with top quality SS bearings. I tried this with a cheap set from Amazon, reused the old seals and the result was *worse* than the original, leaked allot more and noisier.
Sorry to say, this method does ruin the flight characteristics of this heli. This way, it'd be only correctly set up if it was flying with the skids parallel to the floor. As any heli (very noticable for those lightweight ones), it's feathering shaft is tilted by the back rotor thrust. IMO best way to trim: - even floor of about 2x2m (1x1 works too when beeing careful) * ideally the heli can slide a little - zero trim on the controls - without giving cyclic input - start to raise the throttle carefully, until you can see the heli sliding in a direction (this usually indicates the direction it's miss-adjusted too.) - a littlebit faster apply enough thrust for the heli to get off the ground. * don't care too much what the heli is doing at 1m height or below, as it is experiencing ground effect - watch the direction the heli drifts to as it slowly climbs * when fine adjusting, try not to change thrust setting. the heli will change direction when doing so shortening the links leads to more lift at the point of the link: heli drift left: make the aileron link longer heli drifts forward: make the elevon link longer (opposite requires shortening of course) always remember: the msrX links only are to be mounted in one direction - pushing the ball into the bearing the wrong way round requires excessive amount of force, and may very well destroy your swash plate links
As the bearings have been washed due to fluid getting in did you replace the seal to stop it happening again? and if you did where did you get the seal from as you only link to the bearings thanks Bob-UK
Rc heli business is such a ripoff, they’re not cheap,but the quality are cheap most of all. Hobbyist as I am just quiet, even a brand new $200-$$500 heli you have to trim, it’s just A joke, but I thank you for your sharing .
its a standard off the shelf bearing cheap as chips 8x19x6mm or 698 2RS the rs2 means two rubber seals eBay item number:252673443937 approx 4.37 usd for 5 items assuming all the nutribullets are installed with all the same bearings Brett
Paul unless you just like doing this kind of thing, it's only $13, which includes shipping & handling, to replace the whole assembly through Nutribullet. No labor involved & less time consuming. They said it's meant to be replaced every 6 months. Although mine lasted for years before having to just replace it for the first time.
thanks for video. this seems that it should help my issue a great deal. this is my first hobby grade heli and I bought it used. so initially I felt overwhelmed but have discovered it just needs leveled up a bit.
Yes, I think your right, when your asking a rubber seal to be liquid tight, on a revolving shaft. I had No liquid come through on these bearings, but it did leak on the original ones which caused the problems.The bearings have a rubber seal as well.
Just a quick update on the bearings, The ones I fitted in the video did not last.They do SKF bearings but I do not know if these would be better or last !
Nice video - thanks! - But at the start you get your screwdriver between the rubber seal and the top bearing. Isn't failure of that rubber seal the reason the bearings failed in the first place? - remembering that the contents of the blender often end up under pressure, and it's asking a lot of the seals on the 'sealed' bearings not to allow some seepage of the corrosive mix into the bearing. So how do you replace that top rubber seal? Any thoughts?
Got the bearing from www.simplebearings.co.uk..£1.51 each...free delivery..part no.698-2rs-eu......also use edible food Vaseline mostly used on ice cream machines.... Don't use grease,,,,tel 01942269837
