Could still have R12 in it. 1994 was the end of new production vehicles with R12, and after that they were R134A instead. I had a little bar fridge from the 1970's with R12 in it, it finally died when the evaporator cracked. Not worth fixing, so off to scrap with it.
If everything it running and its pumping water round, most likely is either short of gas, compressor not running, or compressor running but not pumping. If its an older machine it is probably not worth fixing as they are fairly cheap to buy new.
Most likely is it needs cleaning. The plate that makes the ice gets lime scale on it from the water which makes the surface too grippy for the ice to slide off. Try cleaning it with some ice maker cleaner.
@@heavydiesel thank very much for taking the time to reply. I see that the machine is cooling just fine, but it keeps beeping. Thank you for your advice.
Seriously. A great fridge 20 years ago. But spending good money on bad in my opinion. I wouldn’t go for the Foster Extra ever. This old cabinet Needs replacing
You need to get a few rolls of silicone rubber tape, which sticks to itself, but does not self amalgamate. Works well as spacer and insulation, and it works well. Normally used on electric fencing to insulate ends, but has a whole host of other uses as well.
And what they taught you at Willesden college is correct, always change the drier when the system has been opened. I decided not to as it was raining on and off, the weather app said it would be rainy all day and I felt there would be more chance of getting moisture in the system by changing the drier as I generally only stock braze in ones on the van. If it had been a low side leak and the LP switch let the system go down into a vacuum I'd have been more inclined to risk a drier change. The LP in this case shut off around 4psi. The system did get a good vacuum and held below the vapour point of water for the ambient temperature. Time will tell if my gamble paid off.....
Good video. That start cap was trashed. That was your starting problem for sure. your Next repair on that's going to be a Leak at that Suction service valve. That steels been sweating a long time. That's a Old compressor there. Might want to just Schedule a Condensing unit replacement in 3-6 Months. Ask them if they want to be proactive. I Prefer scheduling a call over emergency. You are right to replace that 404 valve too. should be a R-22 valve for 448.
I didn't catch it on film but the compressor would start and run for a few seconds then you could hear it slow down before it went off on the klixon, once it had ran with the extra oil for a while it would start ok but yes that start capacitor was not good! The cold room is only used seasonally for hunting so its off a lot of the year, I'll have a word with them and see if they want to do some preventative maintenance, the controller is faulty too and wants changing!
@@heavydiesel Yea , i allways rather change that stuff when i see its coming rather than emergency & it's nice to have a Few Jobs in the Bank ( Jobs i can do when i have a slow week coming up )
If you’re returning with compressors then id be tempted to fit a delay timer to the compressors so they don’t both come in at once. Thats a lot of start amps for a 13a fuse
Don't get me wrong, they always do their job. I think I had issues with one back when I was an apprentice and took an irrational dislike to them more due to my ignorance than the device itself! I might pick one up next time I'm at the wholesalers and give the ID974 another chance!
When I see wiring like that I'd be tempted to just cut all that shit out and rewire it all myself from scratch. If the compressors worked that is though. It looks like a decent cabinet, probably better than the modern ones!
Yeah, I was told it worked so went with the rewire first, should have just wago'ed the wires to get it all to run first to see if it was worth the effort. I think I'd fix it if it was mine, its better build than anything available now
I like that small linishing tool! Was that contractor complaining about available voltage/amps for it's coil?! Were you doing a 'dim bulb' (resistor) setup with the extension line? Very interesting. (I don't do refrigeration at all but I always want to understand more about high and low amperage real-world problems and your videos are great! Also I respect refrigeration far too much to ignore - that stall-out was funny)
I think the fridge has been stood outside in all weathers for a while looking at it. Inside the contactor you have a fixed iron segment like a giant E, and another E with the contacts on, the coil pulls the two E's together to make an 8 shape and make the electrical connections. If the two E's can't pull together fully due to dirt etc the contactor will buzz as in this case, if it was a volts drop issue the contactor would have gone quiet when both the compressors tripped out on their klixons.
Could the voltage drop from the hot extension lead have caused it to cut out on internal overload? Just a thought. Unfortunately I’m not sure many engineers would even have entertained it. (Or have been able to!) Thanks for sharing. :)
Shit compressor me and my brother used to now one the big wigs or owner Chris hill from artic circle and he told us they were a cheap copy of Copeland ones but the internals are cheap and prone to breaking crap as they changed the name to fanchill and they to using Copeland scrolls in the new packaged units with everything in them What you are working on is a guardian artic circle pack The company was based on Hereford fucking shit lol🤬🤠
I would of fitted a scroll or a luniteTAG model because like you say they had a lot of problems the 5 HP prestcold I've had a few re mans fail and that's changing all ancillaries ie filter drier contactors But they failed still in short running time John 🤬
I can usually get things running again quickest with a rebuild as Aces are only half an hour away from me. None of the wholesalers keep anything big in stock so can take a few days.
It would be better to use R449A if possible. If you can't get any then generally yes you could use R404A instead. You will need to change the thermosatic expansion valve to one suitable for the new refrigerant. Also any pressure switches will probably need adjustment. Depending on the system design you might find the liquid line undersized as R404A has more mass flow for the same duty as R449A.
