My damn hose was sucking shut that ran to the EVAP from the intake. Finally found this problem tonight. The 2001 V6 mustang kept almost shutting off when I would come to a red light or a stop then it would take off by itself. I thought it was the TPS but I changed it an it still randomly did this shit. Thank goodness I didn't end up hitting someone in the ass over this. An to think people think unintended acceleration is only from human error are gravely mistaken. I know it happens.. Cuz my Junkstang did it often !! lol.
hey, I have an 08' avenger. dtc p0456/p0457/p0440.. I replaced the fuel cap, will be replacing the fuel vent filter, and probably purge valve underhood.. The thing I noticed difference about the system is the steel flap that was located in the filler neck where the fuel nozzle would go is missing.. I temperarly covered the area with a plastic bag and stuffed the hole before reinstalling the cap without any difference in codes.. MY question is, would this steel flap possibly get wedged somewhere to cause these DTC's?
I accidently topped of my gas by 1.00. I didn't realize that the fuel tank had reached it pressure telling me to stop but I just it was the click that wasn't holding, so I hold on the handle to pump the gas which is why it went a dollar over the first click. Any harm done to the evap system if it is not repeated habit?
Hi i have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Am 3.4 L V6 and the trouble that i am having is when i am on the highway driving at 120 kms and just when i start to slow down i gets this weird smell of rotting eggs, it isn't my exhaust system i just had it all installed a couple of months ago it is Flow-Master Catalytic Converter and a Flow-Master Muffler, and today i still gets that same smell of rotten eggs coming in threw my Interior Vents a mechanic told me that it could be my Oxygen Sensor but i don't think that is the problem cause there is know lights in the dash or check engine light, Note i don't always get this smell when driving 50 or 80 km Please help thanks.
I have a 1972 Toyota corona and have an evap control device but I am having a hard time finding parts for the whole system and was wondering if I can still run my car without it?
Help !!! I have a 97 Mazda 626 DX and I always have this check engine on. My friend told me that there's something wrong with EVAP System code P0441. How can I fix this problem.
I have been getting "Something" introduced to my fuel in my 1991 GMC Yukon denali. The SOMTHING appears to be Black dust, super fine but still big enough to plug my fuel pump filters ( there are two, one inside teh assembly and one outside the fuel pump assembly) I have come to the conclusion that it is Charcoal dust. I cannot see it in the fuel, the tank has been cleaned and it still gets in there, the truck will run with a new fuel pump and filters ( all around, including the in-line) for between 500 and 1400 miles and then POOF! the fuel pump either Burns out OR the filter are so plugged that no fuel passes. on few occasions the pump will still operate with new filters installed. but when it happens again its fried, on other occasions the fuel pump is completely ruined, Presently I have the canister OFF the vehicle and I was going to get another one to see if this is the problem, however all the ones I have looked at seem to be exactly the same as the one I have, by that I mean, it seems there is nothing wrong with mine. assuming a few drips of liquid is normal on the bottom spout. i have discovered the dust by doing this, I placed the black ( new filters that were installed and then failed) in a baggy, I loaded the baggy with 90% rubbing alcohol and I shook it till some of the particles filled the baggy. and then allowed the alcohol to evaporate so I see what it is fouling the filters. Black dust, very fine. I can't think of where else it could be coming from. does anyone know? there is no piles of the dust in the tank, none visible anywhere except in the filters. I have one time had this die on a full tank and I had to remove the gas, I put it in 5 gallon containers, after I did that, i strained the gas, every drop, through a series of paint filters with a coffee filter between each paint filter, 3 fine paint filters and 3 coffee filters. stacked. I choose them for the extreme white color. NO BLACK DUST showed, not even a grain. I saw absolutely nothing. i realize the filters are bigger gauge than gas molecules as water passes through coffee filters but i still don't think that ZERO signs of dirt could show from this test. This is maddening, i have found no one that can tell me what the hell this is, I am on my 6th fuel pump now. my OEM went out in early Feb 2015 - this is May 2015. see what i mean? I am at my wits end here.
2006 crown vic will not start after filling the gas tank. To get it to start I press the throttle down. If I let it get back to idle , it will stall. so I start it with throttle pressed try to hold some RPM above idle and then launch the vehicle. After a short hop , it will start and idle just fine till the next fill. Any ideas? Thanks rod
Yeah, heaven forbid that we might actually take off the gas cap and vent the damn gasses!!! The same goes for filling up a gasoline tanker. This entire setup is nothing but a bunch of government-required bullshit.
I have a question I have a 2004 Buick and when I fill up my gas tank it won't start I put a new fuel pump but now it won't start when I fill up could it be the canister ?
The LDP [ leak detector pump ] oscillates up and down because of pressure differences in the atmosphere during the day or night. A reed counter in the LDP sends information to the engine control computer when the pump operates. so that no impulse count from the reed counter would indicate that the pump is not operating you will have no significant change from the tank pressure sensor
I am a self employed mechanic and this video just helped me on how the evap system works being frusterated with the evap is very frusterating and can drive me crazy thanks for your help
Does have anything to do with gas , I mean I put the gas in my car , after the car won't start I have to wait 20 to 30 minute, or i have to keep turning till it start
Now a .01 leak passes the test. It is still a leak. Like a .01 leak in a child's balloon. I think about that .02 leak changing the planet when I watch the films of Mt. St. Helens which errupted in 1980 along with those State forest fires that burn for a month. The smoke from large forest fires can irritate your eyes hundreds of miles away. Yeah I think about that .02 leak alot. And when I fill my gas tank and smell those fumes pouring out I think about that .02 leak and how it changes the world.
Such histrionics. Perhaps you should driven our city streets before these features were added. I can sssure you that the clean air you enjoy is no accident. To your questions: 1) The fuel vapors are held in the canister until purged, even when the vent is open. 2) For someone who wants no emission controls, you seem willing to impose the astronomical costs related to a "zero" tolerance leak test regimen. 3) Does your family breathe?
The fuel vapors inside a vented system do no escape to the atmosphere when the vent is open as they are "held" (adsorbed) by the activated charcoal inside the canister until purged to a running engine. During purge, several strategies are used to detect a change in air/fuel ratio caused by the addition of either fuel or air from the canister when the purge is opened. There fore the purge function is tested in a running engine. Hope this helps.
mmm, this is good stuff, but it doesnt really answer 2 questions, what does evap do while the car is running (no OBD testing goin on) and what does it do normally when the car is off? does it simply "vent" to atmos through the charcoal canister normally, and occasionally pull vacuum to clear the canister of fumes while running? i'm looking to convert to a standalone ECU yet maintain certain things like this via manual control.