Yeah haven’t had any problems with there stuff really nice and cheap if you look up car audio fabrication his channel is all top tier builds it’s all he uses, second vehicle I used them with too
Amazon just look up black hdpe, Amazon company name was buy plastic, I just got a 12x12 piece off a rough measurement I did for the space I was trying to mount it and routed the corners over for a nice look some Home Depot’s and marines stores carry it it’s high density polymer for boats stuffs super tuff
@@QS_TIPS what about the smaller wire that goes onto the fuse box and the smaller ground wire on the battery? 8 gauge? just curious because i’m doing the work on my truck tomorrow to clean up the engine bay a little bit and i wanna make sure i have the correct wires.
Yeah they Definitely like the power I feel like they can take more I’m sure this is vary conservative but I don’t have to worry about someone blowing them up with to much juice when someone else uses the truck
Should be fine don’t remember the specs off it I think it was 350rms @ 4ohms just don’t crank the amp all the way up should be good more power closer to the rms ratting the better the performance
Hello friend can you please help me out. I installed jbls on the front door and hooked up a kenwood head unit with crux harness. Did that with on my Escalade 2003. Boy does it sound shit all of a sudden. Bose was sounding so good. Head unit and steering control works jsut great but the amplifier seems likes it’s not working at all. Sub woofer doesn’t kick in at all. What could I be doing wrong ?
Jbl only makes 4 ohm resistance speakers I believe for highs, the Bose amp is set up for 2 ohms so probably doesn’t even have enough juice to move that 4 ohm speaker work plus Jbl takes a lot of power to run its made for a bigger amp you need lower resistance lower power speakers for the Bose amp
Great vid brother,appreciate the detailed insight. So for clarification the speaker is 2ohm correct?,but is the speaker size a 6.5 or 6-3/4? Im planning on pulling console as well for same purpose. But wanna get the right size that will be direct fit,minus the filing. Wil a 6" suffice or should i go with 6.5 . Appreciate u man.
Hey brother Quinton was going to ask you how did you like that kilmat sound deadner I'm looking into doing my truck but haven't decided which to use that works the best I'm leaning towards second skin but Ive seen noico and kilmat as well nice build too truck looks great
I have no complaints had it on for over a year now had to take some down to fix a window regulator but actually wasn’t too bad to still get into the door and I just put new matting on after, keeps the truck quite and I have no rattles
You just gotta sub from me bro. Great video ! Every since I got my 03 Escalade I been wanting to know how to do this. My truck basically has the same set up. If you were to put a price on it how much would you say is a fair price to do this job ? At first I thought I wanted to do it but after seeing the seats gotta come out I'm like dang. Again thanks for the video ! Good job !
Great video! Got the 04 Sierra and really need that interior space with the seats down. How good do the seats lay with the amp there, and is there space on the side of the of the subs to put amps?
Having trouble with mine I added a Memphis prx624 in same spot it has selectable 2 or 4 ohm wired now at 4. I currently have a loc and amp with a 12. loc is wired in at those wires 12 bumps but the 6 seems untuned and hasn’t sounded right since installed Even without amp and loc do I need a the 4 wire sub I want to pull this huge 12 out too. have a cleaner look. stock hu
All depends on the amp output for that speaker if is a multichannel the smaller outputs are not a lot only meant for door speakers, the factory amp power would perform best at 2 ohms, that’s assuming the speaker condition and box seal is good
Someone cut my factory sub wires in the console and my rear door speakers rattle and make noise. They aren’t blown. Do you think it’s because they needed the sub?
If the speakers are rattling the glue probably came loose where the cone attaches to the speaker material that’s what I found was wrong with this factory sub I added it at the vary end of the video if you need a visual 5star audio has a good video that covers all the factory amp wiring for these trucks if you want to try fix the sub wiring
22:02 Great video, editing, two thumbs up. And yes i concur with previous comment high five to your old lady and friend hanging out at 420. Currently looking to do upgrades on 04 Silverado Bose system. This was spot on info. Subcribed tonight
I didn’t see one when I purchased this one or I definitely would of not a large selection at this speaker size I even considered a mid speaker for it but the plan was if it didn’t work out just un pin the factory amp for the sub and add a mini amp for it
Awesome instal man. I was looking for a video just like this for my Bose upgrade. The only thing is that when you measured impedance you only accounted for one voice coil and it looked like the Bose had 2. Depending on how it was wired (most likely at 4ohms) it could be 4 or 1 ohms. The interior speakers on mine were at 4 ohms for the rear and 2 ohms front door plus 2 ohms on the tweeter, wired together to total out at 4 ohms per channel. Great video you definitely inspired me to make a similar upgrade soon!
All the speakers iv worked with advertise the voice cool impedance per coil so if it’s a dual 4 ohm each coil will read 4 ohms the bose sub was a dual 2 ohm
I went to the seat post and used the seat nut, I checked for resistance and it was pretty close to zero I’d verify just in case read about some guys not getting good grounds there I just cleaned the paint off really good and I had some pretty large eyelets to crimp on just had to drill it out slightly to fit
Aye bro I got a question I got el64 sky high on the doors and I wanted to do the skar 6.5” evl on the center console but I saw you said something about you said it’ll cut the power to the amp can you explain that a little more like is it a big difference when it cuts power
Yeah factory amp cuts power when you turn it all the way up so it doesn’t blow the factory sub but I have a JL Stealth box so it complements each other perfectly down low the little sub helps out then up top the bigger subs take over it’s only when you have it all the way up tho, so for normal people not trying to go def it will be fine but if it’s not enough for you it would be pretty easy to just add a little 300 wat amp to it if you need more from the sub
Well, for starters, great video my man! I've had a 2003 Chevrolet Avalanche since 2006 and for a few years now the in dash sub has been making a rattling noise, but only at certain frequencies. For years now I've been looking for someone who has done this exact thing, I've search all over, even looking at a Tang Bang from Parts Express. You nailed it! Hoping you made a video about recovering your seats too. I was just talking to some of my guys about do I get rid of my ride or keep it and do some work. Well sir! I think you just gave me the inspiration I was needing. Times are a little tough right now for everyone and we need more people in this world like you! Thanks again.
Appreciate the kind words my wife has a 03 Yukon I’ll make a video when I do hers it actually wasn’t to bad to do your self my truck is still holding up great
@CDP135Z EBay I found the gm part number for the factory foam you can get it for around a 100 I just did the bottom normally what wears out then eBay has cover kits in real leather I got both top and bottom from a seller with good reviews then if you go to seat shop I think is the name they have really good videos on braking down the seats pretty easy actually seat shop has really nice cover but they are more money seen controversial reviews on there foam so I went with factory to be safe it’s the best for comfort it will even tell you how to transfer heated seats over if the pad isn’t burnt out probably will do there covers for my wife they have factory like quality but again they are more expensive normally only the driver seat fails but I had to do both my front all in all I think I only had 600 in material a lot cheaper then a upholstery shop but a lot of that work is so so now hope this helps you out
How much power does the Bose amp produce? And was it a very noticeable difference from the Bose sun to the kicker? It’s my wife’s suv and I just want a little more bump in it. She doesn’t care
Not sure of the power rating of the amp would love to see one tested, but it hit a little harder then stock but nothing crazy it would ruffle the mirror a little bit again it’s only a 6.75 in sub, I’m sure with a bigger amp it would hit pretty hard for what it is, I’d check out JL Stealth box for the Tahoe/yukon if you want a major change it goes under the console as well, but all in all I like this project and it fixed my messed up factory sub problem, If I have time to play with it more I’d love to see what more amps would do to it but I have the stealth box back behind the seat now so they both complement each other well so I have no complaints with the current setup have a video on that as well if you want to check it out
@QS_TIPS hell anything would be better than those made out of paper shizzz called door speakers. I really wish there was a cheaper way to tie in aftermarket android head unit without needing the $100 data can bus box for steering wheel buttons and xm/On-star. Not like I could ever hookup the On-star being 1990s technology. Barely able to send data. But definitely can't now. WTF 2G TECH
Yeah I wasn’t impressed with this pac module had problems with one and if you go to the bad reviews it’s not to hot but there is only two company’s with a module on the market so hands are tied I was doing research on how to by-bass all the bs and just have steering wheel controls but just called it good after I tried a new module didn’t have any issue with that one but you loose the low frequencies for the Bose amp if you got that route
I keep thinking about getting the box made for the truck but this is exactly what I'm scared of is not being able to have protection over my subs. I don't want to destroy my stuff.
Ok so i have a question would it help to to fill the cavity with some tupe of fill to get a better sound? I know like my subwoofer for pa it was full of insulation in cavity. I have a 2020.gmc 2500hd with Bose system and I am not impressed with sound at all . I may have to do something similar. Thanks for the video
Smart man choosing that truck restoring one of these is cheaper than buying a new truck and they are way more reliable and last longer. I did the same thing I got a 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 ext cab from an elderly man that garaged it and I was lucky it was in fantastic shape. I gave $6500 for it and it has 174k miles on the 4.8l engine. I owned a 2004 Chevy Silverado LT before and put 220k miles on it before I sold it. It never was put in the shop for anything but service. It had the 5.3l, but it is really hard to feel a big difference in the engines. The 5.3l pulled better of course, but the 4.8l feels smoother on acceleration to me. Mine does have a leak I need to get fixed it is on the agenda. I had to replace the blend door actuator behind the air bag which was a huge pain, but well worth the money. I researched a lot on older trucks to see what my best options were for the price and it was the 1999-2004 GMC/Silverados #1 followed by the 1997-2003 F-150's specifically the 4.6l engines. The F-150 trucks are cheaper so they are a great choice for those looking to save money. I hear they are a lot harder to work on though so I chose another GM. I would not touch a modern truck right now. Too expensive and reliability and longivity is just not there anymore. I miss the Bose my 2004 had though. I just replaced the 6-1/2" door speakers and rear 4x6" with Pioneer speakers. Looking for the new head unit and 4 channel amp and going to add an 8-10" sub and amp.
Hell yeah that’s exactly why me and my wife drive one, new trucks are not even make it threw the warranty with having to be in the shop, plus that payment I’m good, make sure you check out my sub install videos I finished it off with two JL W3’s in a stealth box
