Even with these things the rubber that goes down it to the valleys flopped around like a fish, and if you can’t add silicone to stop this then you can’t ever tell if the flopping fish gaskets stopped flopping around in the right exact place.
I took the advice from the guy at the parts store and applied a bead of rtv around the whole gasket. I guess now I shouldn’t have…but I haven’t put the oil back in the car. Will the gasket fail fail 100 percent or do I have a good chance it won’t fail??? Thanks
Yeah, this is one application rtv wins out for sure, unless the lubelocker is in your budget of course. For decades I followed old school advice, rtv on almost everything. Until, I decided to go by the book on the water pump gasket on one of my Jeep XJ's and go paper gasket only. I could not get the tiniest leak to stop on my other XJ. It's so tiny I haven't even repaired it yet (3 years now). I've also used my right arm as my torque wrench forever on the non-super critical bolts (almost always successfully, +99% of the time). So, this time I also torqued to specs. The correct torque was probably the biggest reason it has never leaked though. As previous poster stated, cast vs. pliable (thinner) stamped seal are completely different animals.
I used to make gaskets at the Skokie location. Your gasket leaked and turned into crumbly tissue paper in only a few days on my rear differential cover on a 1999 Chevy suburban k1500 10 bolt diff.
This works... until it doesn't. For fancy billet or cast covers and stuff, I might consider a gasket. The issue is with most factory diff covers... they are stamped steel and when discussing a sealed gearbox like a differential case, the gasket allows for compression when you torque down the thin, stamped steel. That creates "waves" in the cover mating surface. The area around the bolts compresses and the space in-between the bolts can buckle upwards. Over-torquing makes the problem dramatically worse on top of it all, and is the cause of most jobs that leak. I recommend using RTV only (with stamped steel covers), and use the stuff designed for gear oil so it won't dissolve or break down. Personally, I use the Permatex brand (it is in a green tube and marked "for gear oil) , but I'm sure there are others rated for this use as well. As always, SUPER-clean surfaces and bone dry after a sterile scrubbing with brake-clean. And even with no gasket and just a thin layer of gasket maker, DON'T over-torque the thing, and DO let it cure before you fill. It may suck waiting, but no leaks is the name of the game here. If you find yourself in that bad spot, spend 30 bucks and replace the cover with a new one and do it proper. Some folks may have good luck using the gaskets, but I've found a 100% success rate using the RTV method and by proper torquing. Fel-Pro makes top-notch gaskets, but I wouldn't use one on this application.
@@gdb5448 completely unnecessary to spend that much money to seal up a diff cover. 2 bucks worth of the proper RTV applied in a proper manner will permanently seal a diff, and it'll never leak. No need to waste 30 bucks on a re-usable gasket unless you are doing swaps all the time
Just bought a set of VS 50247R "rubber" VC gaskets for my 87 F350 6.9 Diesel. Install dry or RTV in the groove? No instructions on the box regarding using sealer. Everyone has an opinion. I'm leaning toward going dry and see what happens. What does John G and Fel-Pro say?
I use mostly Fel Pro gaskets on most jobs and on the corners of the timing covers and the corners of the main caps I tried dry before that's a no no that was a lesson learned for me great thing I didn't have to raise up the engine to remove the oil pan.
I've rebuilt quite a few old engines from classic cars that pretty much used all cork rubber gaskets. I've always used a very thin layer of rtv on the block side to stick it on for instillation. I finally got to build a modern engine a while back and I've gotta say, I'm a huge fan of the blue rubber gaskets! Especially the oil pan, but also the ones that snap into groves. It's such a great improvement and not getting rtv all over myself had me happier than a fly on fresh cow shit!
I've always used fel-pro Gaskets, but I built an engine a couple years ago and a very reputable mechanic told me to never use them because they're junk. So I bought my gaskets from fel-pro because I make my own decisions and they've never let me down. Engine runs great and doesn't leak. Some people just get weird ideas in their head and others listen to them and follow along. It's easier to follow than it is to think
I just put the gasket on dry. Normally I use a gasket sealer like permatex 80019. Sunday morning and I ran out of 80019. It sealed dry, it’s been a week.
This is mine and my dad's biggest argument. He slathers everything with rtv, or gasket sticky as he calls it, and I put everything on dry. It drives him crazy and cleaning up rtv off surfaces drives me crazy. I've not had any major issues. Usually if it leaks I re-torque the bolts and it stops. It's important to loctite everything too
@@theamaturepro technology has moved on. I’m old and much like him I was stuck on the old ways. The new metals are stronger, oil is resistant, carburetors are gone, techniques improved and tools are much better. The old days metal was more porous polishing techniques were bad. I work with an experienced younger person and they give me “continuing education “ on new products. It was a young person that told me to put it in dry. Use a sealer on one side if you need it to be held in position.
@@Mytwistedvoices oh yes, the young and old paradox. It's existed since the second generation of humans! What's interesting to me is my dad and I would bicker back and fourth, but with my grandparents generation I listened to anything they had to say and asked as much as I could conjur up. The one thing no amount of education or lectures can teach is the evolving perspective we gain as we get older. I grew out of the argument faze pretty quick, thankfully. But there's still a handful of heated issues with my parents. If there wasn't, I can't imagine life being worth much. We're all very close in my family, there's no actual resentment between us, I realize more every day how damn spoiled I am to have the family I do
I read the title so watched for 6 minutes and completely missed the part where you installed the valve cover gasket - left scratching my head, oh well, the tiny little spots where the gasket was pushed down just came back up
Does the original molded rubber gasket have to be removed before Installing the felpro one, I would think that it wouldn't seal as good without removing it.
That's nice on a perfectly clean valve cover, but what about when it has oil on it, and the gasket won't stay in? Is there a fix for that? Because that would be useful.
I got 1 torque in, started the truck ran for 2 seconds, cause i thought i forgot to toque the rocker rail, i took it back apart to re inspect, upon reassembling its already stretched 1inch excess and gotta get new ones 😂
I have a question can you install a valve cover gasket on a 2012 Kia forte with the motor warmed up the only reason I'm asking is because I have to drive my car to my mechanic to have him put a valve cover gasket on it because mine is leaking
