I’m a guy that loves climbing rocks (and usually the hard way)!
This project, “First Person Beta”, aims to deliver the climbing adventure as close to a human perspective as I can perform. I place a large value on the raw experience. This kind of footage has offered me technical beta, kept the psyche high and (maybe most importantly for myself) made the seemingly daunting accessible and possible. Simply put, this kind of footage has expanded my climbing universe.
I hope you can take away just as much!
Check out : www.firstpersonbeta.com
Become a Patreon! : www.patreon.com/firstpersonbeta
Follow my adventures on Social Media (#firstpersonbeta)
its a little hard to tell but is the wall slightly positive? or is it like exactly 90 degrees? can anyone confrim or deny? i find this important for me in these videos cause i can better feel into certain situations :)
1997-2001 it took me 4 different partner attempts to get to the top of PoD. And I lived in SF at the time so it was a bit of a slog to get there to start the slog in before the slog up. I remember the exhaustion that last attempt on this final pitch. I had gone to the first bolt by headlamp in a previous attempt, but the rest was all shiny new for the last go. Damn that was a lifetime ago. Good good times chasing thin limestone and 13b. . I have to say, though, that i am happy to have moved on from the intensity of climbing to what I call Be A Great Ancestor pursuits. Climbing got to be too narcissistic.
Hate to be critical of good video of a classic route but your technical skills are suspect. Be careful bro and climb with someone who has some solid training (and learn something). You waited way to long to place your first piece off the ledge. You put your partner in a shite situation if you take an unexpected whipper. Always place a key first piece to reduce the vectors dude! ...pure physics. Clipping 50 year old petons when a perfect mechanical is right next to it? Sketchy shit...
This is a great route I led this in 1981 with my then GF as my belayer. I used only passive pro the entire route, and wearing RR Verappes. No "sticky rubber."
This climb was conceived by Huntley Ingalls and led by Layton Kor. I could have participated in the first ascent but my school schedule didn't fit with their timeline. Never did this route, but no longer possible for me due to health issues. I'm still doing gym climbing and occasional trad routes at City of Rocks and in the Dolomites; limiting myself to ~5.6-5.7 these days, Watching this ascent made me think about how much easier it is with cams and chocks; when put up, they were still climbing with piton protection--and lotsa balls!
Thanks for these videos. Fond memories of living in Squamish in the 1990s and hitting these routes every summer. You do sound absolutely miserable on every climb though.
In my head that looked like a hex placement. But I haven't climbed it, so can't really tell.. Although, that was a spooky pullout. I guess a deeper placement forces the angle to become lower moving it below the 30 degree threshold
Would really appreciate a seperate cut of this without the music. I think the raw sounds are always much more entertaining and less distracting personally.
I thought the same thing about this pitch and did it the same way you did. I believe the actual route starts from the ledge around the corner to the right and is much easier and keeps you out of the corner with thin holds.
well, you're cleaning anchor, not building one. gates are facing each other (not a big deal in this scenario but still, considering you bothered to mention it), and metal is still on metal whether the biners are in the rap rings or the hangers......they're all metal (which is also fine but you bothered to say "metal on metal is usually bad" right after putting metal on metal and saying not to).
miss these videos one of the first guys to do record first person trad well and with a good personality behind the camera. Learned a lot from this channel. Wonder if he's moved on and if so, to what
Had an fun time trying to lead ED after my partner backed off. Got through the "crux" and tried to do it all in one pitch but ended in terrible rope drag mostly because I wasn't smart/brave enough to extend my slings enough. From what I can remember if broken into two pitches it's like 5.10a first pitch to Cray's exposed 510a G second pitch.. wild that such a impossible looking roof can be climbed by mortals!!! The gunk's may be the best trad crag in the universe!
no belay point is simply better than bad belay point because no belay point will force you be very accurate at climbing until you finally manage to make good belay
