Giving myself and others the drive to do it yourself! Because you can. If you cannot I want to help you learn to understand what any technician, plumber, mechanic is telling you! Learn so you won’t be ripped off.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamilygotcha thanks for the reply i know my Serial number starts with MKAC i think it’s a 2002 or something, i guess it’s called a Auto Pilot… Right so expensive to upgrade I’ve rebuilt mine a couple times keeps working so why spend 2k plus on new stuff !!!! I would sure love to get rid of this foot pedal though
I run a VLAN and an IOT network to keep this as secure as possible. Yes I said as possible. At the end of the day, I'm more worried about getting the alert for fire or break ins. I'm aware of all the threats put there, but I can't live scared of everything. Thanks for the concern though.
Possibly. But these lights are not that strong. And most new hvac systems are wired where not much of the wiring is exposed tho the air flow where the lights are exposed to them.
That thing is mounted way too close to the wall. You're not getting any airflow. Needs a minimum of 7.5 inches space behind the unit for people airflow. You're going to lose a ton of efficiency. Not to mention... Burning up condenser fan motors, capacitors, and who knows what else. You need to scoot that out at least 4-5 More inches away from the trailer.
Thanks, I was looking for 3 hours, your the only one that posted anything related to wiring mini split into a plug for cargo trailer. I'm planning on pluging it into a expandable power station, so i dont have to do to much wiring & holes into trailer. Less headache kind of thing. (Its the goal zero 4000 pro with add on batteries.) Again, thanks, this told me it will work, since I couldnt find a video about wiring into a plug. To charge power station, its 800w of solar, a gen, & a Noco 15A inlit, that i can plug the goal zero into.
We call those mistakes “ADHD tax”. Please don’t call yourself “stupid” because you’re obviously not! You had a “brain fart” because you were focused on helping us at the time. Thanks for the video.
That was a great video you did. 👍 Thank you for the details on it. Just a quick question. For vacuuming the system, I'm using my hoses that I use to charge my car's AC. So did you just connect the "blue/low" vacuuming hose (the LOW one you also use to charge the system) & u didn't connect the "red" hose (high) anywhere? It was just 1 hose to vacuum/suck out the air in the line? There was no charging/ adding freon to it cause the compressor has enough to throw it out the line once you open the valve? Sorry for my ignorance, I'm just used to charging car's AC system in which you do have take out the old freon and put new one. So, how did it vacuum it since you had the lower line closed and had to open it after vacuuming it? Is it opened inside to let it vacuum it then it opens up a port inside that line when u open it with the hex key? Is that what it is? Again, sorry for my ignorance. Obviously, I'm going to follow your instructions, just wanting to understand the system itself also. Also, u mentioned you were going to add a breaker box? So is it required? Or can it just be connected to the regular 110v outlet you have on one of your walls? I bought that one 110v and not the 220v. I'm just thinking of bringing that outlet to the outside to connect that mini split.
So the outside unit has refrigerant in it and the valves are holding it back. You are pulling a vacuum on the lineset and the indoor unit. You only need one hose because the lineset and indoor units are all one circuit. If you were to disconnect the lineset from just the out door unit you would be able to blow air through the small line and it would come out the bigger line. Make sense? The 110v unit can run off an outlet but it pulls a good bit of power so if you happen to have anything else on another outlet on the same circuit you are putting alot on that one circuit. It's best to have a designated breaker for it. Hope that helps.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily ok. Yea I heard some people see some of that power glitch the lights or "drown" a little when they turn on the AC. Thank you for the clarification, appreciate it! 👍
I used to use those light strips from Amazon and unfortunately, unless you purchase the higher-end LED strips they don't use real 3M tape which means the lights don't stay stuck for very long in the hot/cold temperatures and other outdoor elements. Looks good though.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily is that a modification or how it is designed to be wired? Also, due to you being an HVAC professional (meaning I trust your information!) is there any issue with creating a low spot when running the refrigerant lines? Thanks!!
Low spot is not an issue on this scale. On bigger units oil accumulation could be a problem but the lowest spot here is not near enough to create a problem. For the power you just need to have a bigger power wire going from the inside terminals to the outside terminals. Mine was set up that way. I did some YT shorts on the wiring if you want to check those out.
@@EmpoweringDIYFamily thank you so much!!! I am thinking of going with a tongue mounted generator rack that sits about 29” from the tongue for the outside unit and mounting the inside unit about where you have yours. Just didn’t want to cause any issues!
I used grade 8 bolts through the frame. The bracket has held up well. The wall bracket seems flimsy when separated, but once you bolt it to the wall and the unit it's solid.
I have been pleased with it. I didn't have high expectations for a "cheaper" ebay unit. But it has definitely outperformed my expectations. I would definitely buy one again.
How did to bracket hold up going down the road? I'm doing something similar and am looking for some tips on how to make that more ridged so that the wall doesn't flex with the compressor sitting there.
The plywood on the inside of my trailer is 3/4" so I through bolted the bracket into the plywood. It has been holding up very well for a few years now.
First, thanks for the video. I'm a HVAC mechanic and am well aware of the instillation process. However, I'm about to mount one on a trailer for the first time. I know these trailers don't use thick metal or wood on the insides of these things. I'm aware the indoor air handler (head) is fairly lightweight. However, I'm a bit skeptical on what type of screws to use (or anchors) to assure myself that the indoor mounting bracket will fasten to the existing wall without being pulled out over time with travel. Did you install anything particular on the wall you mounted your air handler on to allow a better bite for your screws? If not, what are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.
The plywood in my trailer is 3/4 in so I just screwed the bracket directly to.the plywood with a good 3/4 " wood screw. 8 in total I believe. I've put hundreds of miles on the trailer and it's held well. If you have thinner plywood than that I would maybe get self tappers and find the metal stud behind the plywood and run a couple screws into those studs.
Do you think a 2 ton mini split unit will be sufficient enough for a 700 square foot room if the condenser is located 50 to 60 ft away from the evaporator?
How is the vibration sound inside thr trailer. I installed mine and I think i need some shock absorbers or something because it vibrates inside really bad. It's quiet outside but I think with the unit being mounted to the trailer itself makes it loud.
15 amp for now. I just recently added a 30 amp plug to the trailer and will be adding a breaker panel to the trailer and wire that mini split directly to a 15 amp breaker. Technically the 15 amp outlet it's running on now is to small. But it's working
Your idea is great overall. You could trim the 2 buckets with tin snips so it all fits tight against the house. I don't have the same siding issue. I will paint the buckets so they look nicer. Good Job and Thank-you!
