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Hey, it isn't practical. You really need a AC/DC TIG. People will say you can use helium gas, but that is massively expensive and you wouldn't be happy with the results. I have a video using the YesWelder to weld soda cans. That is about the cheapest machine that's any good.
the fact that the HEAD SWIVELS instead of the vise!!! damn!! mind blown! my 10k 2500 lb 11" x 17" doesn't do that. need something small for a ton of mobile fab coming up and this thing looks perfect for that. thanks for the review
Thanks mate, yeah it's a good little saw. It does take a while to cut through thicker sections but I like it. The blade will wonder if you push it to hard.
I have a yeswelder 4 in one and the mig feed the wire perfect and then when we tried to weld, itwill not show any voltage or movement in the wire feed. I have tired everything. Everything else works on the unit. It was never taken out of the box so the warranty is useless when I got it. Yeswelder isn't any help as it's always a rep that knows nothing and wants to see a video, then the video isn't long enough. Any ideas where to look?
Hi, sorry to hear that. I would say it has something to do with the internals, that isn't my area of expertise. I would post a quick video on their FB page. Someone will respond there that can help.
great intro video... as far as safety goes and electricity, when turning off the gas valve and laying the torch down are there any precautions to be aware of as far as tungsten touching metal close by unexpectedly. I'm new to tig welding as just thought I'd ask because getting zapped is the last thing i need. I have a torch holder but there's always that chance of careless actions.
Hi, The tungsten will still arc if it is a scratch start or a lift start. So it will be wise to use a torch holder or place away from your work or if the you are on a metal bench that is also grounded. You won't get a zap from the torch. I hope that helps.
Excellent. I'm an ex-pressure/X-ray welder, and decided to get my self back into my trade for little projects for my business. Refreshing my knowledge was important to me, but after watching so many not so great welding video's from channels that were obviously not run by experienced welders just drove me nuts. So watching your video was a pleasant surprise. Clear info and most importantly correct info. Only recommendation is to maybe wear a mic so you can be heard better :) That accent is great by the way. Keep up the great work and you have a new subscriber! Oh, and I love that you showed the burn through, even the best welders burn through when using a new machine or process, the key is to learn from it and adjust your parameters accordingly.
Hi Phil, thanks for your kind words I really appreciate it. I'm glad you found the video informative for your refresher. As for the burn through, people only like to show Instagram perfect welds on the internet. But when you are learning a new process we don't always pull off a perfect weld.
I have recently upgraded to a Unimig Viper 165 and in my endeavour for knowledge, tips, and / or tricks i stumbled across your channel i find this Very informative you do a great job at relaying the information. Thanks for your time
Hey Chris, thrilled to hear you're benefiting from my channel! How's your experience with the Unimig Viper 165? I've been using the 200 AMP AC/DC model and it's been rock-solid for me. If you're keen on diving deeper into MIG welding, check out my welding cart build video. It offers additional insights on planning your welds during fabrication. Keep enjoying your welding journey! 🛠️🔥
@weldingempire I have only had the Unimig a few days now and more or less only set it up and zapped acouple of bits, so cant give an honest opinion just yet, I bought it more for the TIG function as it's something I want to learn. I will definitely watch the episode on the weld cart Thanks for the reply!
Great video - THANKS! Have you ever been INSIDE the machine and noticed what looks like a blue-colored transformer-looking component around the large positive connector cable (whatever it is, you'll know it immediately when you see it)? I ask because I was inside my 250P looking for any lose wires or connections that might be causing an occasional error code E-4 (which neither the manual nor YW customer support says could show up - Weird). Anyway, all the wires looked solid and well connected, but this little component was mounted a bit crooked (not well aligned with anything), so I aligned it with the big cable it surrounded. The component seems like it may function like those small "chokes" seen externally on other cables for electronic devices, where those are used for blocking high frequencies for whatever (?) reasons. It has a large blue wire connecting it to other blue wires deeper in the machine but the component itself is just losely positioned like a collar over the large black positive cable. Well, I'm sure that is as clear as mud, but any clues? Thanks, even if you are as mystified as I am. Also... Happy New Year and Have a GREAT 2024!
Happy New Year to you too! Thanks for sharing your experience with the welder. It sounds like you've come across a component that could be a type of inductor or choke, commonly used in electrical circuits to block higher frequencies, as you mentioned. It's interesting that it's loosely positioned and not aligned. If it's functioning similarly to the chokes on other cables, it might be there for electromagnetic interference (EMI) suppression. However, without seeing it myself, it's hard to be certain. Good job on checking the connections and trying to troubleshoot the E-4 error. Sometimes the simplest fixes can be the most effective. Keep exploring and stay safe while working on your machine. And of course, have a fantastic 2024!
I'll be running the machine again on a couple TIG projects in a few days, so will check to see if anything is wonky or if there are any codes after aligning the choke (let's just call it that for now). One thing I do remember from almost two years ago when I saw the code (been pretty much just using stick only since then - what a waste!) was that I think I was inadvertently stretching the arc length (New to TIG + being dumb) too far from the work, like 1/4 inch or even more; I think maybe that bumps up the power output a lot, so maybe caused the mystery E-4 code. Who knows. I'll check back in to report, whatever I do discover. Thanks and keep up the good work! @@weldingempire
Thanks for the tip, @gGeorge96! The idea of using 80 and 120 grit crosspads on a die grinder for grinding inside corner welds sounds like a great technique. I'm definitely going to give it a try in my upcoming build. The addition of 3M bristle discs seems like it would provide a really nice finish too. Always appreciate learning new methods and techniques that can improve the quality and efficiency of the work. Looking forward to applying this in my project. Cheers!
Great video. I am looking at a multi-process welder and have the option of single phase and three phase, mates tell me three phase is the way to go, your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
Absolutely, three-phase welders generally offer superior power output. However, keep in mind that if you plan to use the welder outside of your workshop, a three-phase option might be less convenient due to its power requirements. If you're working with sheet metal, definitely check the low voltage capabilities of the three-phase welders. Also, consider the size of the MIG gun; larger ones might not fit into tight spaces. For smaller tasks, a 150 amp MIG gun could be a more suitable choice. Hope this advice is useful to you!
Hi W/E Thanks for the reply, greatly appreciated. I am in Oz and looking at a cigweld 355i 3 in 1 three phase or a Topgun 200 single / double pules 3 in 1. Just don't want to buy something that's not going to last, Thanks for taking the time to reply. Cheers
No worries. We have a Top Gun 3500LSWF at work and I wouldn't recommend it. I had a Top Gun 200 amp AC/DC welder that I got cheap because it needed repairing. I wanted to replace the circuit board because of a broken potentiometer. They threw all their older welder replacement parts out and tried selling me a new welder. I replaced the pot and sold the welder for $350. After-sales service Could be a problem. The CIG Weld 355i looks like a solid choice. But have a look at the RAZOR 350 COMPACT MIG/TIG/STICK WELDER. It is a slightly larger machine but it has the castors and bottle stand as part of the package. Plus it has spool gun capability. I used one for about 6 months at a hydraulic repair shop. Great machine.
Thanks for your kind words and for watching the video! I'm glad it was helpful for you. Just a quick note about the saw - some users, including myself initially, have experienced the blade wandering. However, with proper setup and adjustment, I've managed to use mine effectively and regularly without issues. Cheers!
Hi Kieran, I purchased a 205DS based on your recommendation some 2 years back. I really like it. So much easier to use than my old CigWeld. The Inverter technology is great. I would definitely like to see the cheap aluminium welding using a regular MIG torch. I assume that you will be using the 205DS?
Hi Greg, I,m glad you are liking the YesWelder. I will be using the ArcCaptain for the MIG welding, but everthing I show in the video will translate to the 205DS.
@@thh4584 Yeah, Mainly between 24 to 29 volts with MIG and 28 volts for flux core. I use around a 30 lb spool of wire every 2 days. So it gets hammered. But it has not let me down once.
100 %. 250 amp AC/DC TIG at the price is a excellent deal. It is no more difficult to set than any other machine on the market. I jave had my machine for over 2 years and haven't had any problems.
Mine didnt come with a foot pedal and im trying to get it working with only the button on the torch. Do you have any insight on settings? It will start an arc and then go out shortly after
Hi Morgan, I think if you are taking your thumb off the button as soon as you press it, that could be 2T. If you are leaving your thumb on the button, then I would say you have the machine set to spot timer. I hope that helps.
Wow, the machine is really enjoying the company of a pro like you! Your welding skills are off the charts, thanks for all your feedback. We promise to take it seriously and keep improving our products. Keep on welding, you superstar!
🔥 Questions about multiprocess welders or the ArcCaptain MIG 200? Ask away in the comments! Want a detailed review? Check it out here: weldingempire.com/arccaptain-mig-200-review/ 👈Use my code WELDINGEMPIRE at checkout for an exclusive 5% discount. www.arccaptain.com/?ref=weldingempire code WELDINGEMPIRE
Long time fan still experimenting with adding hf start to my Chinese multi process welder I got 3yrs ago. Since then added a primeweld Tig 225 with maxcool 3000 water cooler and a CK worldwide fl230 torch best investment dollar for dollar for a setup for under $1500 it has paid for it self with the first 3 jobs I did.
@@weldingempire I'm working with stainless steel, titanium and aluminum I took off on building custom turbo kits. In the slow times I repair just about anything.
@@danielsplayhouse3804 I've never welded titanium before. Is its puddle similar to stainless? I will be building a manifold for my SS Commodore with an LS1, I have the 78/75 VS racing turbo. Turbo life! 🚗💨. Do you have an Instagram for your work?
I used it a few times doing hydraulic cylinder repairs to build up ring lands on hydraulic pistons. Similar to this channel, www.youtube.com/@CuttingEdgeEngineering. But that was on an extremely old Hobart TIG Wave 250. I bet they run better on a newer machine.
for mine I switch out the to a ck flex line and thinner wp26 for peddle control... also picked up a wp9 setup for lighter work...still playing with this unit..have fun Peace
"@moustachemike7128 Sounds like some solid tweaks you made there! The ck flex line and WP9 setup must be quite handy for precision and lighter tasks. Keep experimenting and enjoy your setup! ✌ Stay safe and weld on!"
Great to find a video targeted at people with basic equipment, big thanks! We would like to use stainless steel channel to edge our kitchen end panels, no welding involved. What would you recommend to achieve a simple clean easy to maintain brushed finish along the length? Would abrasive pads alone be enough or would we need a cylindrical pad too? Appreciate your advice, thanks again! 😃
Hi, to maintain the grain a good quality red abrasive pad would be fine. Use a very small amount of kerosene with the pad. Use a sanding block to evenly spread the pad over the whole surface. Just do one continuous stroke over each length until you are happy with the look. Changing directions will be very noticeable. Warm soapy water to remove the kerosene with a clean cloth and follow the same one direction method. I am glad you found the video helpful and I hipe that helps. Cheers.
i just picked up a mp welder, Forney mp 140, i had a Miller Dynasty 200 that i sold, i have been thinking of making a pedal for my Forney, I wonder if I could use a rheostat to lower the input to the machine and a relay to cut the ground.
I am currently making a video of the Arccaptain MIG 200. I find that to be a far easier machine to use. For beginners or experienced alike. Here's the written review weldingempire.com/arccaptain-mig-200-review/ I hope this helps.
Greetings, I have the same machine. I noticed that the little light was NOT on on the top of the three lights on lower far right. This indicates that you have programmed your machine for the foot pedal. I'm wondering how you got good welds without this light on? It tells you to hold down the pedal for 5 seconds and the light comes on...if mine doesn't, I get terrible welds...
Ciao mi chiamo Daniele Breda, o acquistato la stesa saldatrice che stai provando la sto aspettando perché io sono italiano, mi sono iscritto al tuo canale avevo visto altri video pero tu sei quello che mi da piu fiducia sei molto professionale come spieghi o presso questo tig perché o guardato molti video e questo e quello che mi a dato piu motivo per aquistare per me e la prima volta. Lo presso per saldare aluminio, come cater motore o cilindri di moto. O presso anche la bonbola argon adesso devo aquistare la maschera, se puoi mi daresti un consiglio, mi serve sapere anche che tipo di stucsteno serve, spero di non averti importunato grazie
Combining your new information with the previously refined recommendation, we get the following: "If you're only engaging in TIG welding occasionally, I'd recommend starting with a good entry-level helmet. I've personally used the Yeswelder LYG-M800HP True Color daily for about six months, and it has performed exceptionally well. I've recently received another helmet that I find more user-friendly, especially when it comes to changing the battery and clear lenses. One small issue is that the cable inside the hood requires some adjustment against the helmet, but it's worth noting that this helmet is around $30 cheaper than the Yeswelder. For welding an aluminum engine block, it's advisable to use a 4043 TIG wire. However, be cautious as the block might require heat treating post-welding to alleviate stresses. Welding materials like cast iron or aluminum can be quite challenging. Hence, it's crucial to hone your TIG welding skills before attempting to weld an engine block. For your tungsten needs, Arccaptains' 2.4mm lanthanated tungstens are versatile and suitable for both AC and DC TIG welding, and they are very reasonably priced at just $12. If you're interested in checking out the helmet, here's a link along with a 5% off code: [www.arccaptain.com/products/wolf-design-large-viewing-screen-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-true-color-welding-mask?ref=weldingempire](www.arccaptain.com/products/wolf-design-large-viewing-screen-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-true-color-welding-mask?ref=weldingempire)." This recommendation provides a comprehensive guide on both equipment and welding techniques for beginners and those looking to weld specific materials.
You mention that cutting lubricant should be used but Vevor and Kaka say that you should NOT use lubricant as any carried on the belt could cause it to slip on the rubber lined wheels. What is your experience?
Hi Chris, I do you a drop or two of cutting oil on stainless steel. The blades wouldn't last long if I didn't. I have checked the rubber on the drive wheels and they still looked dry. I hope that helps.
@@weldingempire I am getting the welder today and will be using this weekend. What initial setting would you recommend for: 1/8", 14/" and 3/32" aluminum stock using 3/32" 4043 rode? Also what size tungsten? Thanks,
Hi Tallyman15, A busy weekend then! For aluminum a good rule of thumb is 1 amp per 0.001" of material thickness. So for 1/8th 125 amp as a rough guide and 1/4" 250 amps. That will only be to begin with. once the aluminum heats up you will be backing off a lot. 1/8th I would use a 3/32nd 2% lanthanated (blue) or an E3 (purple) for the 1/4" if the AC balance is down a little lower the 3/32nd tungsten of either sort will be fine. Or step up to a 1/16th. The TIG wire will be all good. Happy welding.
@@weldingempire Did some welding this weekend and I heard a loud "pop". After that, no arc. I looked inside the welder and at least two of the IGBT chips fried. I contacted yeswelder and requested to send a new welder. If they are non cooperative, I will request a refund and purchase a different brand.
