I’ve had that happen before with older decals.

I clear coated it with 2k clear. That is the mirror finish.

@@ScaleModelExperiment oh great, thanks for the info :)

Sorry, they had rows of other stuff, I just focused on the cars 😁

Thank you Lorenz, I really appreciate your support and kind words👍

Thank you so much Owen, I’m glad you enjoyed it.👍

This was WenBin doing this video. I use Tamiya acrylic gloss white cut 1:1 with Mr hobby leveling thinner and airbrushed with 2 light coats to get the body white.

Since I created that video I’ve learned that by using a hair dryer you can manipulate the decal to conform without the use of solvents. My sponsor and owner of a decal company put together a video showing this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4JZqkFnR45s.htmlsi=n_u1BvTvo9Hqy3eX

@@ScaleModelExperiment okay thanks alot man

Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed them👍

Using an airbrush is not hard, it just takes practice. The one that I use costs $80 and you’ll need a compressor as well. The one I use was around $200. You’ll also need a spray booth which can be bought for around $100. Once you have all of that equipment, you can buy bottles of paint instead of cans and thin the paint to use very little paint to cover your models. I recommend watching more of my videos to see more of me using the airbrush.

Yes, I buy no-name band from Spraygunner.com 2k. It comes in a small amount and is reasonably priced.

@@ScaleModelExperiment Thank you! I found it, and see that it comes with reducer. Much appreciated!

@NotMorganFreeman. Of course. I like to overthin it myself 4:1:2 ratio.

Thanks for watching bud! I’ve found that a full assembly before primer is so valuable 👍

I’m suprised that you can stay in the lines.

@@ScaleModelExperiment I’ve just been doing for a long time brah

Hi Ken, thanks for watching. Model Car World MCW has a line of lacquer paints I use often. I use their bare metal, steel and 20% flat clear. The wheels are that steel.

That was a huge mistake on my part. I have a different color tape now just for Yellow cars.👍 thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching David, if you liked this one I have more on the channel for you. 👍

I’m so glad you enjoyed the video👍

Describe a good bond to me. Tamiya extra thin joins two painted parts by melting the paint and the plastic into goo at the application point. That’s why I apply it at places that you don’t see. You don’t paint that glue on, just a dab at the joint and it’s done. The models rarely see any abuse so the delicate glue is fine with me.

@ScaleModelExperiment more often than not, if I have two painted parts and let capillary action seep into the join, the parts end up not bonding and fall apart with the slightest touch.

@@scale_model_apprentice hmmm, either you’re using too much or your paint is too thick because the glue is pooling.

@@ScaleModelExperiment okay, I'll see about reducing it down with some tamiya airbrush cleaner

@scale_model_apprentice I found a very old video that shows my body painting technique. My intent for the video was to not use clear but I ended up clearing it later. If I were to do it again, I would have stopped at the third coat when the car was 100% black. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pbxBq0o0fKo.htmlsi=-6Xu71epRlO4A2HK I hope this helps.

I like to start with the highest grit possible sanding sponge. I usually start with a 4000 grit and work my way up to 10,000 then fine compound then wax.

Hi, I had to rewatch the final assembly video to figure it out. The Machine badges were decals. I used bare metal foil for the door handles. Thanks for watching, you might enjoy the final assembly video…

Awesome! If you’re adventurous you can kit bash that with a 68 Roadrunner chassis and engine.

@@ScaleModelExperiment I'm about to embark on a pretty big conversion project, a 1970 challenger into a 74

@@scale_model_apprentice yeah, that’s an adventure for sure!

Hi David, I was thinking of painting mine very similar to yours except go mango instead. Thanks for watching 👍

@@ScaleModelExperiment that be very neat and cool color if your like me might have more than one that be great color you guys are inspiring me to get back to building cars I’ve Ben building and flying rc nitro planes lol

@@DavidKing-planes1567 that’s a cool outdoor hobby 👍

@@ScaleModelExperiment yes it’s fun Hobby

Thanks bud 👍

In glad you enjoyed the show 👍

Thank you. Actually from China. PZY Kitbox is the name of the company that makes the kit.

@@ScaleModelExperiment thanks 🙏

Thanks for watching. I’m glad you enjoyed the show 👍

Thank you for the support my friend😎

That’s the truth! The decals I was using were of top quality. Thanks for watching 👍

Thanks Travis, glad you enjoyed it👍

Thanks Mark, it was a good show and we are honored that Randy is such a good guy to join us. Thanks for watching 👍

Thanks so much Stig! The owner really appreciated the build at the end. 👍

I’ve eyed those Kei food trucks many times. I may buy the one with the fish on top 🤪. Thanks for watching 👍

I’m so glad to hear that! Thanks for coming back and telling me. That makes my day 👍

Hi Lyle, we as modelers can do some amazing things. Most people just don’t understand why it takes so long to make one. Thanks for watching 👍

You’re better than I am then, the decals I was using were top notch quality. The ones you used were most likely 💩. Thanks for watching Patrick👍

@@ScaleModelExperiment lol. I’m not saying that I didn’t ever throw the kit decals in the trash and by Slixx decals or some other quality decals but I will tell you I did the M&Ms NASCAR that I did use the kit decals. If you know that car the decals wrapped over and around every body curve of the car and I persevered and made the kit decals work. Just as with anything it’s taking your time and a huge amount of patience.

@@PatrickKend yes Decals can certainly test your patience👍

I’m trying to not use solvents any more as heat seems to work better. I also stopped using qtips because the fibers left behind. Heat and a silicon brush to adhere the decal work well.

I do mine the same way. I lay my decals down using the Red solution and set it in place.. I tap it with a paper towel and then apply the Blue setting solution and walk away. I check on it once or twice. And I may have to use a little more settings solution just to a spot or two . And I've never had a problem with any of my decals. When I have , it's been due to the quality of the decal... But this is still a pretty cool video. 👍

That’s exactly how I see it as well. Just a complicated puzzle.👍

Thanks for watching Mike, this video was just for fun!

Yes, it’s a resin kit. I painted it with a thin layer of Mr Color Black surfaced and then 2 light coats of gloss black before decals.

Thanks so much! I’m glad you enjoyed the video👍

@ScaleModelExperiment your welcome, and yes, we did thank you 😊 🙏 ☺️

Thanks so much Billy😁

I disagree. Revell did a F&F car with slicks, blown engine and roll bar and a stock version afterwards. They are reusing the stock version like the kit I built in white glue.

@@ScaleModelExperiment yeah… I disagree with you… I know you get kits donated to you or whatever… you’re one of the best builders I’ve seen… well let’s not lie to the people. All of these kits are almost the same. the Fast and the Furious charger kit… the MPC kit countryside… that kit you just showed with the hot pink body color … the 68 Dodge Challenger from AMT with the tin box… they’re all the same besides a couple parts… a couple chrome parts ..and box art… it’s like selling a big Mac in five variations… the sandwiches is the same but the box they put the sandwich in is different.. and instead of ketchup, they put mustard on it.. seriously… what these model car companies are doing should be considered false advertisement.

@jimmyYa0 ok Jimmy, we can agree to disagree. Thanks for watching👍

@@ScaleModelExperiment I’m subscribed and watch your videos/channel religiously …let’s agree that you cant speak the truth and give your true thoughts about these new kits… because they have been “donated”…these kits are almost always identical except a few parts.. yet different brands and different years of a car always have the same exact parts in the box…the brand of model is different and the Box art is different… yet it’s always the same… all across the board… it’s not your fault… yet we look to you for your opinion and thoughts… I have purchased 4 different Dodge charger models from 4 different manufacturers and they’re 98% the same kit. Can you pass the word on that things need to change… you’re one of the best builders… I mean no disrespect towards you… but this company’s need to step up their game… they’ll listen to you… please help us… 🙏.

If you have a 3d file in STL format you have to put it into a slicer program like Lychee to “slice “ the art into layers. The slicer program will save the file into a format your printer will recognize and it will print the art one layer at a time.

Yes, I try not to use any solutions with decals any more and rely on heat to mold the decals into place. This video was just for fun to show the journey.

@@ScaleModelExperiment yeah I got ya. 🙂 I liked this video, showing how many decals you had to put on. I never realized how many went into some of these kits! This was pretty cool to watch!

@@barebonesgarage7624 thank you again for watching 👍

The video was at 250% speed so you can only imagine how long they took to not only apply but smooth out😁

Thank you Larry, this was 100% box stock. I challenged myself to not add any parts from other kits and just work with what was there. I appreciate you watching and leaving me a comment👍

Welcome to the channel Sam, if you liked this video I’ve done other white glue reviews, lots of full builds and attended lots of swap meets. I hope that you enjoy the channel👍

Thank you very much DVDW👍

Hi Larry, thanks for watching👍 I’ve been doing these full decal cars for a couple years now. They aren’t easy.