There are a lot of good ideas with this, not sure I'm sold on those cutoff valves on the manifold. I mean I hope they are "Full Port Valves" where they don't restrict flow, but also, they can in themselves become a leaky maintenance headache. I would think that PEX should last your lifetime, and that you already have cutoffs at each fixture in the bathroom, so why muddy the water with a cutoff on the manifold? The only reason you might want that would be if you plan on some shootout in your house where you might rupture a line in the wall and want to just shut that area off vs the whole house. Between the expense, maintenance and complexity ... not so sure it is that useful. 12 years later, what say you? Worth it?
Omg! Is there anything you can’t do? I found you while looking to cut hardy backer planks and I’m blown away by all the things you know how to do. Great job!
That's the piece that comes in from the bottom/crawl space that he put the gaskets on. He's just not crawling down there for the video and understandable so lol
So I'm redoing the floor in the bathroom. putting down new 5/8" plywood subfloor, than the same lifeproof flooring (the higher end stuff, 22ML wearlife) you show. I was at the local plumbing supply store (no, not Home depot), an actual plumbing supply store. They also are a plumbing contractor. The guy at the counter told me to put the flange sitting on the subfloor, not the finished floor because those floating floors will shift and cause the joints in the flooring the possibly crack or come apart. Right now a have a copper drain pipe for the toilet. he sold me an Oatey 1 piece plastic flange with a Proflex Furnco coupler, that one side is specifically sized for the plastic flange and the other is sized for the 3" copper drain pipe. he said it allows for some up and down differential to compensate for height. My question is, if I put the flange right on the subfloor, (and have the finished floor cut around the flange) where should I cut the copper drain pipe so Its a good height for the flange to sit flush on the subfloor? Thanks, great video
Was looking for why to use silicone vs putty & you answered- thank you. Duration of application is primarily the reason. So, I’ll use the silicone! Thanks!
Many ppl are here because they have a flange that is too low and was incorrectly set If so, use a flange extender. A bit easier than trying to reset the existing flange,
Good video and to the point. Too often you get lazy contractors that just slam the flange down on the concrete and don’t set the flange for the finished floor. Leading to sealing problems down the road as the wax ring fails.
Nice video. We have a easy heat orange cable. Working well for years. Froze up this year. I went down to test. Cant tell if the cable is on or not. I get a voltage reading on the cord it’s plugged into but no reading on the actual braided cable. Yet it is about ten degrees warmer Wondering if there is a fuse in the east heat box that’s plugged into power. It has a few screws.
Damn, I've watche/read about 10 articles and you're the first person to mention that the bottom of the toilet is suppose to marry into the closet flange. Goddamn lol, thanks for that, I wouldn't have known otherwise and it's been a thing in the back of my head as to the why the finished floor needs to be under the lip of the closet flange. Thank you very much, instant sub and like!
But how do you secure the toilet flange to the floor? With screws? TrafficMaster directions say not to secure their vinyl plank down with any kind of fasteners so it can float.
@@jpjp3873 That's a good idea but what I'm going to end up doing is cutting all the way around to leave a quarter inch space between the flange and the flooring and I purchased some oatly ring spacers to space the flange up perfectly flush with the height of the floor.
Hi i have question we are renovating the bathroom. And one of the rooms next to the bathroom that is been renovated smells strange. I was wondering if that is the sewer?
I spoke to a JHS salesman today and even he didn't suggest this incredibly simple method. He said I should use a blade with minimal teeth, which is true if I want to use a blade on a miter saw, but this is way simpler. And I would think that rough edges wouldn't matter much since it'll likely be covered by trim. You may have saved me having to lay out money for multiple blades. Thanks!
The instructions on my cable say to NOT use it on two cables taped together as it can cause a fire.... I wanted to do what you are doing until I read that.
