Thankyou! The wing is custom made by Claase Designs, a local sponsor of mine here in Australia. But there are plenty of wing manufacturers around the world, I suggest if you have Facebook, jump onto the "E36 Track Cars" FB page, plenty of good information on there about wing manufacturers that might be more local to you :) Goodluck with the build!
I haven't tested it so can't guarantee, but in saying that they suit 330i handbrake pads inside 330i rotors. So there is a good chance they'll work or might need some slight modifications to work. Here is a post one of the guys I sold the brackets to wrote up about slight modifications to fit Porsche brakes to his E46. www.e46fanatics.com/threads/completed-porsche-996-calipers-m3-rear-discs-on-00-323i-w-stock-trailing-arms.1312928/
Nice! Whats thinking of the same turbo. Equivalent to the g35-900. What rpm does boost starts and when full boost at 23psi? I have the same motor just no decom cooper plate. Other turbos i was thinking is the 6466 or hx40 super
Thanks! It's a really healthy power curve and obviously every motor and setup is slightly different so numbers won't be identical. But boost starts coming on around 2500/2700rpm and full boost hits around 4500rpm and doesn't run out of efficiency before I run out of revs. I'm sure theres a turbo that will come on sooner, but then you run the risk of bending rods etc, so better to make the power/torque a bit later in the rev range 👍 Once you're boosted, you'll love it regardless 😉
To be honest, it's not noticeable when the car is a stripped out, poly bushed turbo race car - so no, I don't hear the chatter over every other noise the car is making. When I had one in it when it was N/A, stock street car you could hear it noticeably, but I got used to it. The performance gains were worth it though.
Sweet ill keep that in mind. Unfortunately previous owner left mine straight piped and its unbearable. Looking for good sounding setups to replicate. Thanks for your help!!
Why couldn't you just buy a banjo bolt adaptor kit instead of resizing your filter housing this seems like much more work than just getting a M12 to M14 banjo bolt
Works really well out on track. Haven't used them on the road but I feel they'd be super effective on the road too. Don't worry about brake bias issues, it's not noticeable at all
Thanks mate, it's changed a bit since this video externally, but I havent had to pull the head at all, still holding in tight. It's currently making 450hp with a Pulsar G35-900. So definitely far from stock. All the engine internals are stock though
Cheers bud, more in it for sure. The hesitation on the pass, and shallow corner entry, wide exit definitely cost me. In saying that, couldn't match the time all afternoon!
Yep, has held beautifully and is now running nearly twice the boost without issue. And no, you definitely don't put the copper gasket between two HG's. To be honest, these days of you're running E85, only a Cutring gasket would be fine to run without the spacer
@@DomsE36Garage My m52b25 alum blown head gasket at .8bar boost after 2 year abuse, now i brought athena cutring and m12 head studs, shoud be fine now, pistons are already machined for boost.
@@tcjay119 honestly you should never use two gaskets, never heard of that at all. Maximum you'd use a spacer and a HG. I'd be triple checking your facts if you think you need to run 2xHG as it definitely doesn't sound right. Maybe touch base with Hopwood to confirm, Alex is really good there and will help you out
@@tcjay119 ahh, I was just checking out their site. It isn't a double HG, it's a spacer/decompression plate and an MLS head gasket combo...similar to mine but I use a copper spacer instead of stainless and a cutting HG instead of MLS. So perhaps you guys are getting confused about the plates vs HG.
Been absolutely brilliant. No issues at all and hasn't slipped once. Have a look at my vids, it's a Turbo 325i, so about 3x stock power and runs beautifully
To be honest, they don't make much of a difference but I have found for some reason the facelift grills fail/fall out less than the pre-facelift so that's been a bonus haha
i have a e36 323ic and my getrag synchros are all destroyed, i just want the best/cheapest option and i’d like to buy a zf used, would i just need the front shaft and possibly shift linkage, if so how do i know exactly how and where to buy. i’m new to this bmw stuff
Can't give you a 100% accurate response as I don't own a 323i and they use different diffs etc compared to the 325i. However I suggest you jump on some E36 specific Facebook groups and ask the question there, you'll get a more accurate answer then from me. In saying that, at a minimum you'll need the front half of an M3/328i/Z3 tailshaft. Depending on what shifter you have will depend on what linkage you need. I just used the stock 325i linkages due to the chassis mount shifter. I'm saying all that, if you want the cheapest option, just buy another Getrag for cheap and throw it in. The 323i doesn't make enough power to stress out the Getrags too much, should get some decent life out of a fresh one
@@DomsE36Garage I really appreciate it, i think i just needed to hear it from someone else. is ebay my best bet for shopping for a 250g in mid united states?
How much power can the Getrag handle in your opinion ? Im planning to put it on my stock m54b30 but i'm a little worried it will crack ..can't find any zf in my region
It'll last until it doesnt.....basically they are a bit of a grenade, but if you treat them like a baby they'll last longer than if you're taking it to the track or clutch kicking it at a drift event. Never hurts to keep a couple of spares because it can blow at any time. Power isn't the biggest concern, it's more how you treat them.
@@DomsE36Garage Righto, I’m building a LS e36 at the moment for track use and was wondering if it will hold up, the M3 diffs are near impossible to get, I’ll probably change to custom setup if the 188 doesn’t prove strong enough.
@@zoltrix7779 yeah a tough and well built 188mm will last a decent amount of time on the track as long as you're easy on it (i.e. minimise clutch dumps and hard launches if you can). Mine handles a second gear clutch dump burnout on slippery concrete without issue
Not 100% sure mate, Benchmark Solutions tuned it for me. As far as I'm aware they tuned it for 98oct, then roughly 40%, 60% and 80% ethanol as far as I can recall. They may have done some sub increments but I'm not totally sure. Hope that helps!
@@DomsE36Garage I appreciate it! would you be willing to share your tune so that I could take a look at it? It would help me out a ton as I am trying to iron out my tune. If so I'm not sure the best way but could probably place in a google drive or I could give my email.
@@masoncarroll3976 I paid a lot for the tune to be done so I'm not really willing to give it away for free. Happy to work something out if you ping me on the . dom293 at gmail.com
@@DomsE36Garage gotcha you know anything about RK tunes? I’ll probably go ahead with the spacer just to be safe. Ideally s50 cams in an m52b28 with 300-400hp on 91 arp studs and cuttring gasket
@@milanmakesbeatscapsulecorp945 yeah Jordan is the owner of RK Tunes, he's really switched on and knows his stuff. Have a chat to Jordan initially to work out what setup will meet your needs. A good resource is also the Boosted E36 World Facebook page if you aren't already a member. Goodluck with the build
Copper head spacer and cutting head gasket with stock pistons and rods. So suspect with that combo I'm at 8.x:1 compression. We were at about 22/23psi for memory @330kw
is there a specific driveshaft combination for a 318 e36 with a medium case and zf? i used the rear of the auto shaft and front half of a zf shaft and my only issue now is that i can’t bolt in the center support bearing
Unsure on that one unfortunately, I don't own a 318i and haven't tinkered with them in the past. I think you'll have to do some googling. Also the bimmerforums is a good resource for information like that 👍
If it's an identical swap, yes you'll need the front half of the driveshaft from an M3, 328i or Z3 (basically any of the cars that come with the ZF from factory). The rear half of your existing shaft should mate up to the front half of a ZF shaft. Reason for this i the flange on the ZF box is larger than the Getrag flange. So you'll need the larger M3 guibo too.
Thanks! Jump onto the CES Motorsports website and look for the cutring/copper spacer combo. I'm running the 84.5mm cutring gasket which works fine for the stock M50 84mm bore. Looks like they are out of stock though, so touch base with them to find out when they are getting more in. All the best with the turbo build.
@@DomsE36Garage love to hear it, thanks for getting back to me. I've been reading about alot of people have great results. As long as you use the cooper spray and the special torque sequence your ready to go.
Can you can give a little feedback on the shifting behaviour of the ZF compared to the Getrag? Currently I am running a Getrag on my M52B25, but I am building a M52B28 and I am thinking whether to get a ZF or stick with Getrag... I do not care about power numbers, just want nice shifts
I personally prefer the smooth shifting of the Getrag. The ZF is quite notchy and harder to hit the gears fast. However the ZF is much stronger, so that's the trade-off
@@DomsE36Garage Great man, thank you for your fast reply! Exactly my thoughts on this. And if I can even save a few kg with the lighter Getrag I am going with this for my tracktool.
I'm currently in the process mate. The aim is to get it all back together and on the dyno early next year. Will then be back out at the track as soon as I can! Thanks for watching
Cheers mate! First time out with the increase in power, so was still getting used to it. Check out some of my other videos for under hood shots 😉 Also have a lot of pics on my Instagram #domse36garage
If you google "RS Type Muffler" you'll see they are some sort of chinese brand generic muffler. They possibly come under some other name these days, so just find a generic stainless straight through muffler with 3" inlet and whatever tips you like, and it should sound pretty much the same. Important to note that I run just a bullet style resonator too which helps achieve that tone.
Nope, haven't re-torqued the head studs since the original heat cycle re-torque. It certainly wouldn't hurt, might just mean you need to replace all the gaskets etc again of you pull the rocker cover is all