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Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damages caused by any of the information in my videos. Always consult a certified professional for your automotive needs.
Great video fixed mine today after changing the vtech selenoid as a whole and it still leaked. I changed this part and no leaks on 2008 honda accord lx-s now.
The 2013 and onward has a bar in the middle to smash the side of you hand on cutting it good when the spark plug releases. The 2006 to 2011 don't have that bar to smash the side of your hand on. I've changed them on a 2010 and a 2013 and I smashed the side of my hand 3 times on the stupid 2013 Civic.
Great video , did it in 10 minutes my car wouldn’t start now it started quick and I feel the difference when I accelerate! Thanks for sharing this video!
Great video but one thing. Never put antiseize in the threads. It will cause you to over torque the spark plugs and since the heads are aluminum they can easily be damaged.
Thanks for all your videos. I´ve an Ody 2015 in Vzla. The judder is driving me crazy. Do you recommend this for my transmission? My plan is: bulletin A17-043 and A17-044, and later install the ATF cooler. Thanks in advance!
Kind of pointless to change the fluid without replacing the transmission fluid filter, cleaning out the transmission pan, and cleaning off the magnets inside the pan the collect tiny fragments of metal from wear.
Nomás con ber este vídeo yo cambié el empaque de mi hunday sonata 2011 y todo salió muy bien gracias por ASER este tipo de contenido porque AMI me sirvió de mucho gracias
What do you do when no amount of force (even with a 5 foot cheater bar after heating the $hit out of it with a torch) will break loose the crankshaft pulley?
Great tutoring video. I subscribed. One question regarding the air bleeding. You set the temperature to the Hi. How about the vent. Should the vent be turned to the maximum too???
Do not have to do it that way,too much work.Disconnect from the ball joint lowering the lower control arm down getting it out of the knuckle.Impossible to fully torque that axle nut down
Debating on getting KYB strut plus (the complete assembly) versus getting a shock and new upper mount and transferring the springs over. Thoughts? My upper mount is making a little bit of noise so it's probably worn out.
Can you take the bulb out first and THEN disconnect the wire? I feel like it would be easier that way, but something tells me not to do that. And it's like nobody even thought of doing this in any videos, including this one.
Thanks for Great tutoring video. I subscribed. One question regarding the gasket. All gasket I installed on different vehicles always were placed on the edge of the thermostat. The Mahle that you are using in your video is placed on the top. Is it correct? How did it fit; I hope it doesn't leak. For better sticking to housing looks like you make it wet Is it right?
