This discussion is made difficult sometimes by varying definitions of tracks and points and routes! I've not used basecamp other than trying it once and hating it. I use google maps and google my maps. I plan a trip day by day, each day being hundreds of miles and up to 9 waypoints, which is the maximum google allows. Then I export the google map as a KMZ file and import that file as a track into the Zumo through the garmin explore web app. The garmin explore web app could also be used directly if you wish. You could stop there with the track, but I then convert the track into a route in the Zumo. Ultimately, the waypoints I specified in google do show on the Zumo route. There is a symbol on the screen showing as you come near or pass that waypoint. If you deviate from the route for any reason, the Zumo will try to steer you back to the pre-planned line. You can also edit the route, but then the Zumo will use it's own logic to get you somewhere rather than what you imported. It all seems complicated, and it is to a degree, but in practice it works pretty well. I would suggest creating a short "trip" around town with a handful of waypoints and then going on a ride to see how the Zumo behaves under different circumstances.

Yes, I think the color temperature is part of the improvement, not just the increased brightness.

It was inevitable!

I do understand the sentiment, and I'm not a fan of most of the gizmos on bikes and cars these days. However, I do think the TPMS sensors are valuable for riders--not to check the pressure, but as a warning while riding. If you have a few seconds of warning that pressure is dropping after running over a nail, it could offer an advantage. That said, the implementation of the sensors could be improved for sure.

I discussed this at 2:50. If you try to transfer too long of a route, you can overwhelm the Garmin unit. That's why you were getting that message. Some people do choose to use their phone, but there are drawbacks. Aside from the problem of weather and physical abuse to your phone, if you don't have cell coverage you will be lost. Where I have ridden across country, there have been many areas where there simply is no cell service.

Remember, the bearings come sealed and pre-greased, so what you are adding is really there just to prevent corrosion and keep water out. As such, almost any wheel bearing/chassis grease will do. However, my current favorite is the Bel-Ray waterproof grease, which is green and comes in a plastic tub. I use it for motorcycles and bicycles in many areas.

Did you install the regular or GT version? The GT version would not be appropriate for your bike. And what air pressure are you running? Lots of us are riding the Road 6 more like teens than grandfathers and I can't say I've ever felt what you describe.

You need to be methodical. You say the engine does crank over? If you hear the fuel pump spin up and the engine appears to turn over at a normal speed, then your battery is not the issue. If the turn over seems slow, then you might want to test your battery and I have a video on that process. If your battery is good and the starter spins over normally then you issue must be either in the ignition or fuel system. You say your fuel pump spins up, but fuel may not be getting to the cylinders. You can spray starting fluid into the intake as a test to see if the engine sputters to life. If not, then the problem is ignition, which could mean coils, wires or plugs, among other things. You can test for spark using an inline spark checker or by pulling a plug and grounding the electrode while cranking.

@@tinderboxarts Hey!Thanks a lot for your time! The Battery charge is 12.6 volts and cranks the engine like normal. I will spray some ignition fluid to see what happens if not I will unplug the spark plug boot and will do the spark test (I just bought the tester in Autozone). It will be my next Saturday assignment! I will write back to let you know results! Thanks again for the time you took to respond me! Thanks 🙏

I've got a video just for you! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--ub07EkInVY.html

To install lights your choice is either to connect directly to the battery with a manual switch, to set up a relay instead of a manual switch, or to use a device like the Hex ezCAN which ties into the CANBUS network. If your lights came with a relay, you may be able to use the harness connection in this video. But I can't tell from your description what all you have.

You bring up an interesting question. There can be many reasons why a battery is sized the way it is by the manufacturer, and engine size isn't even the most important factor. Remember, the battery has two purposes. One is to crank over the starter motor, the other is to act as a buffer for the charging system when the bike is running. The size of the battery will be dictated mostly by the first function. That starting circuit has many design variables, including the size of the starter motor, the gear ratio of the starter motor, the length and size of the cables to the starter, the internal friction of the engine at start-up, the number of cylinders, the required cranking speed for compression/ignition, and the stroke/compression ratio. All of these things impact how much "uumph" is needed to turn over the engine at the right speed for ignition. So it is entirely possible that a larger displacement engine could require less electrical "uumph" than a smaller displacement engine depending on some of these parameters.

Yes, the TPMS sensors are not there for accuracy, they are there to alert you when there is a sudden drop in relative pressure, indicating an oncoming flat or blowout.

The quality of LED lighting varies tremendously. You may just have poor quality bulbs which you should replace. Another potential issue is just dirty or loose contacts.

I'm not familiar with that model, but if it is fuel injected then the throttle position sensor is likely to be substantially similar in function to the one in the video, and it could be tested the same way. All of the sensors on bikes, cars and trucks work essentially the same way.

Well, if you want to test a particular wire for continuity to make sure it isn't broken under the insulation, you do need to get to both sides. There are a number of probe types which may help, though. A "piercing probe" is a device which connects to your meter and has a tiny spring-loaded needle on the business end to cleanly pierce wire insulation to get to the copper wire underneath. A shade-tree mechanic version of this is just to take a sewing needle to pierce the insulation and then use an alligator clip on the needle. There are "back probes" for your meter which have various designs to slide into harness connectors without taking the connectors apart. They let you test while the bikes is running, even. There are spark plug testers which you MAY be able to insert between the coil and the spark plug (if the physical circumstances allow) and see if there is a spark or not. All that aside, if you've done some recent work and disturbed other wiring than you intended, you may well be able to see a problem with a close visual inspection and some patience. If you find a pinched or bent wire you can test that section rather than the whole thing. Ultimately, though, you'll probably have to take things apart.

The 2009 model year was a transitional year. Do you have a carburetor or fuel injection? Fuel injected bikes are computer controlled, carbureted bikes are not. Either way, if you get nothing at all then the first check is the battery. You should check the voltage with a meter rather than swap batteries. If that checks out, the next question would be the cables and connectors. You can use a continuity tester or ohmmeter to check the ground, you can do a visual inspection to make sure there is no corrosion or loose connections (not just at the battery). You say the fuses all look good, although they can look okay and still be bad. A meter will tell you for sure. Finally, it could just be one of the switches which has gone bad, so the rest of the electrical system is okay but the key-switch or the kill switch is no longer working. These can also be tested with a meter.

@@tinderboxarts I will go through the steps you listed.

It is normal for the battery to get warm after adding electrolyte. You can let that sit for an hour or two then begin charging slowly overnight.

Great tip!

Yeah, the BOA system is just new to me so I'm sure I'll become accustomed to it.

Yes, as long as the voltage is correct you can use a larger capacity battery. However, that also means more weight.

@@tinderboxarts Is the weight a big factor in this case?

Yes, if you care concerned about the bike being jostled around you can do that. If you don't need to manhandle the bike it may not be necessary.

@@tinderboxarts It doesn’t take “manhandling”, to happen. Remember the rear of the bike is much lighter since the back wheel and driveshaft is removed. It’s such a simple thing to do to avoid an ugly situation. BMW factory mechanic Chris Harris includes this very instruction as part of this procedure. Look it up.

As I said, you can do this if you like, but I don't think it's necessary for final drive maintenance. Everybody has their own comfort level, of course.

Glad it was helpful!

It would take some pretty harsh scrubbing to do that. As long as you use a soft bristle brush or a rag and don't clean like a gorilla you should be okay.

Terrific, I hope it goes well for you!

I'll be wearing it on another trip in a month or so. I really can't complain about durability. The only downside I found was that the fit around the middle was a little generous for my size body.

That wouldn't be advisable. The stiffer sidewalls would not offer much flexibility without the additional weight, and I think you'd find them to offer poor traction and handling when compared to the regular model in that circumstance.

There are links in the description to the place I got my foam, as well as a chart relating density to weight. I don't weigh much, about 135-140 pounds. As a rule of thumb, I would lean toward the softer foam if you are undecided. That chart should help, though.

Awesome thanks 😊​@@tinderboxarts

The duct work splits in half. Try removing one half if you are having trouble with the whole thing.

If you'll be adding auxiliary lights or other things which require a dedicated circuit, you might consider installing a HEX ezCAN device: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0wyMCMryQ6c.html

There will be some more!

Your problem is most likely not either of the things you mentioned. I'm not intimately familiar with your bike, but most water cooled bikes work the same way when controlling the electric fan--they are thermostatically controlled. Somewhere on your bike is a sensor which is informing the computer of water temperature. When the sensor data reaches a certain number, the computer instructs the fan to kick on, and when the temperature drops back down to a pre-programmed lower number the computer instructs the fan to turn off. To troubleshoot this simple system, the first step is to verify that the fan itself is functional. You can disconnect the fan from the harness and apply 12 volts directly to the fan connector once you determine which is hot and ground. You can use almost any wire you have hanging around, or jumper cables, etc. Just briefly touch wires and conform that the fan powers up. If that checks out, the next most likely culprit is the sensor. To my knowledge BMW does not publish the sensor specs, but they all work in a similar way. The sensor varies resistance over two pins as the temperature at it's tip changes. There will be a reference voltage supplied to the sensor on one pin (typically 5 volts) and that reference voltage will be modified to the other pin based on changing resistance. See this for more detail: autoditex.com/page/engine-coolant-temperature-sensor-ect-13-1.html So you want to check first to see if there is a reference voltage being supplied to the sensor. If not, then there could be a wiring harness, connector or ground problem. If there is, then you can check the sensor itself for changing resistance as the engine heats up using generic charts like the one in the link above. The sensor can be purchased from third parties for under $30. Now, if everything checks out--you have a reference voltage, the resistance values make sense, and the fan works, then you can turn your attention to wiring issues. The only reason CANBUS control would be involved is if there is something like a dead short and the system shut down a circuit. Presumably that would throw a code, however.

To answer your updated question, we use the CANBUS term loosely. The CANBUS network protocol is just a standard which allows communication over certain types of wires. It's used in many modern vehicles. The computer has the programmed values and the logic to make decisions about the data carried over the network. Your computer is not faulty. Amateurs often jump to that conclusion without doing the diagnosis. My first response should be followed for that diagnosis.

Honestly, the brake adjustment is a brilliant piece of engineering.

No, it's monokey. The two terms are confusing, though. Here's the direct link: giviusa.com/products/v47nna-47ltr-monokey-case-w-cf-accent?