Our defender 110 was inherited from my late mother whom sadly passed away 2021 after a short battle with cancer. Her Land Rover was a tool to her and she used it as part of her business. Our aim is to restore it and upgrade it possibly re-engine it with a V8 and keep it as a loved car in memory of my mother.
A standard 200/300tdi should have no issues at all doing 70mph + Time to get there is another story. There are a lot of moving parts in a Landrover drive train which rob power, so it's important to address every one of them first before even looking at the lump. No point in opening waste gates and fitting boost pins, if the brakes are binding, there is a post-code of backlash and every bush and bearing is binding, or made of cheese. When the rolling train is sweet, then in goes the gearbox, Now how tight is that? Finally, in goes the lump and even an old, tired lump should have no problems at all reaching 70+ lashed to a sweet drive-train. After that, you are looking at the peripherals on the lump - is the injector pump well set up and not sticking? Is the timing spot on, are the fuel lines and joins free of air ingress, is the tank clean, is the sender sweet, the injectors spot-on etc. etc. Lastly, when all that has been addressed, and you have flung the viscous fan away because it's robbing you of 5 horses, and you are not in the Kalahari towing a bungalow in midsummer, or revving the tits off it diff-deep in a swamp in a pay n play off-road quarry (which is the only time a Landrover remotely needs air cooling) then and only then, might you possibly, maybe, consider tweaking your 200/300tdi lump for power - because you don't have the patience to wait at a roundabout to pull out, and you absolutely, positively, have to make that connecting flight to Indonesia for your corporate takeover meeting and you're running ten minutes late... For all other use cases in the UK, a well set up and maintained 200/300tdi will cruise at 70 all day long - you won't be playing your Spotify shuffle playlist or holding any sort of conversation while doing it, but you will be doing 70mph. 😁👍
Thanks very much for your comprehensive reply, it will do 70mph for sure I’ve done it on the motorway. Only couldn’t get up to 60mph because the road wasn’t long enough! The gearbox and transfer box are all new refurbished so I know they are good. Check out my previous videos where I change them. Many thanks for your reply it’s appreciated that people actually watch my videos.
@@Allthingsdefender Yeah, I do watch them - just a bit of tongue-in-cheek reply. You're doing better than me, I'm only half way along and haven't sorted out a seized selector fork in the transfer box yet...
@@Allthingsdefender Well, so do I but I know the minute I get in there it will cost me money! There is a square 'inspection plate' on the chassis side that should give me access to the selector shaft/spring, and fork for Hi-Lo That's what is sticking. All the hi-lo linkages etc are free and working so it's I hope a sticky fork/shaft because the only other thing it can be is a collapsed bearing/sheared gear... kerrrching. I always also meant to get to the problematic output gear from the PTO cover (the big one that should have had a hole drilled in it for oil flow/lubrication) and replace it with an aftermarket one. Bugger that though, I just need the project finished and rolling. Maybe next year I'll strip the gearbox out and maybe throw an R380 in while I'm at it - a Roamerdrive (or similar) would also be the bees-knees, but they are helluva spendy. A Landy is crying out for a 6th gear overdrive for highway cruising. *I just had a look, around 1800 quid and apparently they've redesigned it a bit, cos they used to have issues with overheating because it didn't get enough lube... hmm "Dear Santa..." 😁
@@kinnellian maybe just stick with the old LT230 I’m not really sure the difference between them. All I know is mine was an LT230 and it was properly broken with no oil and wouldn’t even shift in and out of diff lock. I will open it up soon and have a look but only for entertainment as I don’t intend on repairing it. I shall probably just sell it as a broken box.
@@cormac1000 hi I have just been looking back to see where I actually purchased it from and I can’t find it at all. I can tell you it’s not an original part for sure so possibly a Britpart. So far I have had no issues with it though. Thanks for watching and commenting. I shall make a note to self to put actual parts and purchases in the comments on future videos.
@@ultra999999999 it had absolutely no oil in it. I think my mother whom used to own it never actually used the high/low or diff lock so when I tried to diff lock it seized and was like actually hitting a brick wall. One day I shall open up the transfer box and see what’s actually gone wrong. I shall obviously video opening it I’m sure it will be entertaining!
Butyl tape. It’s the black sticky stuff LR used to fill gaps in the bodywork to stop water ingress. Peel it off the roll mould it and stick it in the gaps between panels and fittings.
Please put grommets on the wires where your live feed goes through the battery box and bulkhead, movement can cause a bit of wear on the wire insulation and you will make the body live!
Really I hadn’t even noticed to be honest. I shall have a look. Thanks for the comment. Hope you enjoy my content? Actually just looked at the video myself how can you tell? Is it the uneven wear on the tyre if so I hadn’t noticed that either!
Ummm I did look at that but I assumed it was the pump so ordered a pump without really checking. Probably a school boy error but the pump I think was possibly leaking too as covered in oil. Well that’s what I’m telling myself to justify a pump change! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I hope the squeal on my 110's steering will be cured by tightening the belt, if not your video is an excellent tutorial on changing the pump if needs be! Thanks and great channel.
I got them off eBay. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285503233902?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8Z1edsAgSY-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Q6r0se_4RLS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Those self-adhesive foam seals are designed to be stuck on the back of the vents and replace the rubber seal on the bulkhead. That's why they appear to be the wrong size. Your early 110 (pre-92 with the hinged bulkhead brackets) had the bulkhead rubber seal as standard. Incidentally, you really need to replace that perished windscreen seal as well.
Just be aware for MOT 7 pin is a “visual inspection” whereas 13 pin is an assessed item, 7 doesn’t include a reverse light but 13 does and therefore you could fall foul come the MOT
No problem hearing you. A note re removal of reverse and number plate lights. I heat the plastic around the bolts and just pull straight off. Simples :-)
@@simonbarclay9507 hi thanks for the reply. I’m glad you can hear it ok. Not sure why the other guy couldn’t. Yes I was aware you could hear them up to remove them. Thanks for watching
Hi, I like your channel thank you for making the time to share your experiences, btw MTF94 is better for the LT77, the use of ATF was a BL “Bodge” to get around baulky changes with traditional gear oil when cold, when Texaco developed MTF94 for use with the R380, it was also certified for the LT77, a Tech Bulletin was sent around the LR Dealerships, (I have a copy somewhere….) informing them, but somehow the use of ATF has persisted.. I once spoke to Ken Tomlinson he was a BL engineer who built all the LT77 boxes for Tony Pond’s Rally TR7, he told me the best oil was actually Motul Gear300, however it is a bit pricy for my pocket, I have been using Smith & Allan MTF94 for years, it gives a smooth gear change stone cold or red hot after towing.
Thanks so much for that I will change mine over the next time I do an oil change as you probably know I’ve only just done it in a new box. Many thanks for watching my channel.
Love the 110 stickers mate but you should get new ones in a different colour like silver and white or something that goes better with rutland red and which is my favourite colour for Land Rovers
@@Black_Templar_Marshal no I’m not 100% sure it is something I have been trying to find out exactly what colour it is. I believe the Rutland red was only on 300tdi onwards and this is definitely a 200tdi. But as I say I’m not sure.
@@Allthingsdefender Rutland red has been used since early 90 110 and disco 200 I’ve had a 2002 facelift disco van in Rutland red pal so age doesn’t matter Edit: I’m positive it’s Rutland red pal Edit again: the reason I said 90 and 110 was because that’s what the defender was called before it was named defender and yes yours is a 200 tdi but it shouldn’t have come with the 110 stickers because only pre defender models have it but it does look nice and I’ve done it to mine as well.
@@nodiggity9472 unfortunately not all aluminium. It’s a mixture of aluminium and steel and they actually touch so causes electrolytic corrosion which is just annoying.
I’m not sure it gave more power but it definitely helped with a better tickover on start up. I think it may also be more responsive when driving but that may be just in my head.
100% need a new lift pump. The engine can pull enough diesel through but having a working lift pump will make it respond better (fractionally) at lower revs.
Thanks for the reply. Yes I tried that too off camera I was getting annoyed with it. I have taken off the fuel lift pump it doesn’t appear to be supplying any pressure I think I’m lucky the truck actually run at all. It maybe why it was also slow and not very responsive. Got a new one coming Monday so will fit that and review the results then.
The lights and the DRL controller came from LRparts check out my video of when I fitted the lights too. They are great lights for only £55 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Bqt2b_YfdnU.htmlsi=CV4AaUUr4rAdvnjV
Nice video, one of mine failed MOT yesterday on headlight position and thought I may as well upgrade to LED’s while I’m at it. A nice touch you may like to consider is to give those slam panel support bars a quick coat of satin black spray. It’s the bars behind the grill that run at about 60 degrees, it takes 10 minutes and freshens the front up a lot, especially as those plastics are in such good shape 👍 Thanks for the inspiration on the lights, they look great
I’m glad I’ve given inspiration to change them, they make a huge difference. I shall take a look at the slam bars as you say. I’m also going to rub down the bumper and respray that.
I found this stuff pretty good on a rear crossmember, it still wanted a primer though on the bare metal parts. I just used the cheaper PRO-COTE stuff last time and it’s lasting very well and was less fussy on application.
Don't know why this stoated up in my feed - I've a 110 project languishing, so it's kinda given me a wee kick to do something - anything -to move it forward. I'm guessing yours is a 300tdi - simply because it didn't fire first kick. No idea why, but my 200tdi (Disco engine) and other Defender 200's, always fire first kick just looking at them - everyone's 300 wants to fanny about first, and taste the diesel like it's sampling a fine Margaux, before informing the waiter it's acceptable... Good kuck, with the project.
Hi I’m glad I’ve motivated you into starting yours again. No mine is a 200tdi I’m not sure why it didn’t start first go it usually does, although that was its first start for many months so maybe that’s why. Good luck with yours what is your project is it a fully restoration?
@@AllthingsdefenderA 200 tractor👍 Aye, probably sluggish just with lying up then. Mine is a partial restore. It's not going back to show condition! I bought it with an empty engine bay. I thought I had nothing to do but drop in my old Disco engine - turned out that was pretty shagged, though, and I had to do a full nut n bolt engine rebuild - fun, but spendy. It's a thing of beauty now though, and fires first kick - I also had to clock the turbo to clear the 110 wing, because the Disco 200 turbo sits low. Salisbury + drums.on the rear - but all the mounts on it were shagged, and poorly repaired - so that job is holding the project up. I've welded on shock mounts, but still got the trailing arm mounts to do. No big workshop, so tricky in the wind, and rain. I'm thinking of just dropping the axle out completely to make the job easier - but then I wouldn't be able to help stripping the diff down... doing the A-frame etc 🙄 Doors aren't too bad, probably needs the dash out, for some loom work, and the body is pretty untidy - Needs stripped back and resprayed to get rid of the Dulux, and filler! The chassis was well waxed, and shutzed over its life, but the crossmember was paper - got a galvi crossmember cheap enough. After that, maybe a full rear bulkhead conversion for a bit of legroom - cut it away and put a bar in. I'll have to look in and see how you're getting on with yours if you post anything else. I keep going to do videos, but can never be arsed! All the best 👍🍺
