Great video. I just ordered the kit for my S120. When I bought it last June I thought the easy change would be great. Then I saw how much it costs and how little oil is changed. Will install the kit to be ready for spring.
Hi Thanks for the info, I'm gonna do the same thing for my john deere. I have a question though, why use permatex on the drain tube and loctite for the filter nipple?
Just personal preference. Locktite on the filter nipple will help from it screwing out with when the filter is removed. Since the drain pipe is steel and the block aluminum, permatex should stop any seepage. There are comments on this post not recommending doing that ?
I used a crowfoot wrench with a ratchet and extension. I just got a cheap set at Harbor Freight. www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-3-8-eighth-inch-crowfoot-sae-wrench-set-94426.html
The ONLY part of the "Easy Change" system that I like, is the extra large JD oil filter. If money is no concern, continue using the Easy Change oil filter and drain the entire engine, with the drain plug on the other side of the engine as shown in this video. You'll just need to buy a couple extra quarts of oil with every "Easy Change" filter.
good video. The screwdriver did work but made me cringe a bit. The only real issue is that you should have lubed the oil filter seal with a bit of oil and HAND TIGHTENED it as tight as you could get it. Never ever use a filter wrench to tighten this type of oil filter. It can damage the filter if you are not careful, and it makes them incredibly hard to remove even using a filter wrench. Other than that you did a great job with good camera work and got right to it without the usual blah blah blah that most guys do!
Not everyone uses a riding mower to cut a small yard. I cut over 3 acres weekly and according to John Deere's oil change requirements I change oil 3+ times a summer.
Thanks Rick, great video, I've had the kit for a year and now time for first oil change but couldn't quite see how until I saw your video. Joh from Hamilton Ontario Canada
You saved me some money, now and in the future. For my first oil change on an E150, I got the 2 jugs of oil, the filter and the two required parts from the John Deere dealer for less than the cost of the ez change filter alone. thank you, well done.
The Green Parts store, who is a John Deere dealer sells the conversion kit using genuine John Deere parts. Since this video, I have changed the oil a couple times and gotten the filter from my John Deere dealer who is familiar with the conversion kit. www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Easy-Change-Conversion-Kit-AUC12916-KIT.html
Reading these are like talking to a bunch of Trumpers Have no proof but just know its true Its not 1957 any more Tech has change alot Get proof before mouthing off Some people find fault in everything
Good job on your 1st video Can't believe John Deere would even consider such a ridiculous idea. Anyone with any knowledge of motor maintenance knows full well leaving half the DIRTY oil in a motor is just plain stupid. Great idea and would be the best thing IF you removed ALL the oil !
Before this, I would never buy a new john deere coz of the filter which is too expensive and having to push the gas paddle all the while. But after seeing your video and getting one with cruise control, I might just buy me one. Thanks for that info.
I just ordered the oil drain tube So I can drain the oil.im keeping the big oil filter its pricey but I think it's better then the small ones that's my opinion no one get mad lol
Your choice to keep the big filter, however, the only reason it is so big is because it has to have room for the oil that's in it. If you drain the oil, I imagine you have to buy a qt of oil when changing as you will be draining more oil than what is in the new large filter. I never cut open a ez change filter but the actual filtering portion probably isn't any bigger than the smaller filter.
That was an AWESOME video! Common sense solution. And those new fancy big green filters are over $40 as opposed to around $13 for the one you can use now!
excellent content, don't worry about video quality - just fine... no BS, bring another when you have a topic... maybe "how to disable foot brake safety switch" ?
Great video, just completed the upgrade and it took about an hour and most of the time was spent cleaning up my mess. Don't understand how anyone could agree w/ the original design of leaving all this dirty oil in the crankcase and calling it a "change kit". Great conversion kit from John Deere for less than the cost of one original oil / filter change!
Well I guess their idea is leaving dirty oil in your engine will shorten its life and you will have to buy a new one in 5 or 6 years as oppose to the old ones which could last up to 20 years.Mine is 17 years old and still going. Just saying. Kudos to John Deere, vary smart. LOL.
Stephen, if you pause the video at the beginning, you can see by the belt cover towards the front there are 2 studs/bolts sticking up on the deck. The side shoot connects there. I left the nuts on so I wouldn't loose them. I put a mulching cover on and switched out the blades to Oregon "gator" mulching blades. Have had good luck with them in the past.
great job and good video, it is to the point. I am currently in the market for a new lawn tractor and I've decided against any that has this system on it specifically for the reasons that you changed yours.
The kit I talk about is sold by a John Deere dealer consisting of all John Deere parts. If you clink the link below it states in their item description, " This is a John Deere authorized conversion so it will not adversely effect you warranty." My local John Deere dealer also stated it will not affect the warranty. You can also have your John Deere dealer convert it but you have to pay their labor.
