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I have to look at this cable now. When I give it extra gas and my rpms increase suddenly, it feels like the truck overrevs and stalls for a brief second or goes straight into overdrive. This video will get me started. Thank you sir.
You're an inspiration to me buddy. I have a f@#$ed up back and have been working on my cars, abd trucks since 15 years old "45 now" but back pain limits me that I can't do it as much as I'd like. I'm not rich "well with money that is" so save as much as I can to pay people/ friends to help me get stuff done. Seeing your videos and you not letting it stop you motivates me brother......Hell Yeah!
Chinese made stuff is better and cheaper than what we can make it for in the U.S. I have been in the field of manufacturing for 2 decades. In the past, I paid both countries to make the same part with the same drawing. The U.S part cost 10x more. I couldn't tell the difference between the two in comparison. If I paid 25% more in China and tightened up the tolerances, I would still be able to cut costs.
Sniper installed in 2017. Went thru same issues, and what fixed all was to remove the fuel regulator and install a 32buxx external one. No more issues. Turns out the cheapo thing was randomly defining pressure. Now got a perfect steady 59.5 psi at all rpm. While using the original was ranging from mid 60 to high 70’s. Also a modified mazda o2 sensor spacer ( enlarged the tip to reveal the sensor fully) made the AFR readings more stabile. Now no more over rich mix or hesitations or anything. It finally runs at it should have for years.
No offense was not expecting the wheel chair 😅 i was wondering why you had your hands up earlier like "what would you be doing with your hands to affect idle".. anyways thank you for the video it helped a lot
You should have added it to the flat side of the pan (horizontally, instead of vertically) it'll drain more of the fluid out also if you put it as low as it can go. There is a flat part on the verticle side of the pan near where you drilled, between the solenoids. Also it wouldn't be as likely to get hit, brocken, or knocked off if it's coming out of the side of the pan rather than hanging straight down.
Do u have any info om how to address slop in the steering wheel. My car drives but has some slop in it. Is there a way to adjust or tighten the sterrimg gear box? Thanks
Man I wish your video popped up sooner on my search results. I went through so many garbage videos before this one. Thanks for making it man, it makes all the difference when you're doing stuff like this for the first time. Very informative and easy to follow along. Thanks again buddy.
What actually still works is red oxide paint/ primer. Then use chassis paint over it. All rust encapsulation finishes are not UV resistant . And too many use it on improperly prepared surfaces. If you can tap the metal and huge chunks fall off it all needs removing. Another tip ( not degassing) is to heat up the metal enough to remove moisture .
Awesome video🙌 very informative! 👍 I inherited my father's 70 Jaguar XKE with an LT1 and had a turbo 400 with a B&M shift kit, used to bark the tires when you hit second🤗 but then he swap that out and wanted it more streetable as you did and put a 700 R4, but now it shifts as if the tranny is slipping? I will try and adjust it.. hopefully that is the problem.🤞🤞 Thanks for the great video. 🙌👍🙌
Great video. Good video quality, good voice and speaking. Less music however. Even on the cold start it was hard to hear the engine run over the music. This channel should do well based on what I’ve seen so far. Just less on the music. Thanks for the content and subbed.
That gent, that alluded to the fact, these aftermarket EFI units, haven't had the R&D time, with hundreds of thousands of simulated miles, to really "flesh" out there weakness's with "RFI" leaking exhaust system's , worn ignition components and the like. Things a decent carburetor can tune around and live with rather easily, is something to think 🤔 about. Listen, not all of these systems are all bad, the point is, most of us, don't have a lot of time, to really enjoy driving our cars, so for me, I'll stick with my carbs for my old rides. EFI's fine for my daily driver... At least until the base system they sell, is relatively "bullet proof".
I watched this video a week ago not thinking you have the same tail shaft as my truck. I’ve been searching for this seal and bushing for weeks. Thanks!
If you've had exhaust leaks with your EFI system, for any amount of time, you might as well just replace your O2 sensor(s). With an exhaust leak, and the resultant unburned O2 from the atmosphere that gets sucked into the exhaust system through the leak, WILL confuse the sensor and be sending a false lean signal to the ECU all the time, and then it'll be overfueling the engine constantly. There's NO faster way to foul out an O2 sensor besides taking it out of the box and immediately smashing it on the ground. Just chalk it up to a lesson learned, and replace the O2 sensor if you've had ANY exhaust leaks. Even a leak as small as a pinhead CAN and WILL screw up your A/F ratio, make the system too rich, and permanently destroy your O2 sensor in no time. Trust me, I've BEEN there, and DONE that. ✔️
Hmm, 🤔 the Terminator-X Stealth 4500 system on my 900h.p. 547" big block works just fine all the time. Reach through the window, twist the key for a second or two, and it roars to life and idles immediately. It's consistant as can be at the track also.... 🤷🏻
so i learned something new. didn't know you could use brake clean for the o2 sensor testing. i always just took a propane torch to it (not lit obviously). sure you've already swapped to carb, but wanted to throw some things out there. 1. yes, if you don't use the AC kick, disable it. also depin any wires that aren't used. this'll help prevent interference. 2. the o2 sensor testing can confirm if it's dead. it can't always confirm it's good. i say this because they can be intermittent which i believe is your issue unless you already replaced it and had the same issue. it's also possible the o2 controller (internal to the sniper) has an issue and would require sending it to holley. 3. and lastly, old engine is fine with sniper as long as there aren't mechanical issues. self tuning is a myth (in a sense).. it'll get it driveable, but it'll never "tune" itself. if you want the most out of it, you'll either have to learn to modify the tune file yourself (preferable with a laptop) or take it to a dyno shop. all the "self tuning" or learn does is adjust the fuel table. it'll only hit areas you drive constant on as well.. so cells you dip into on decel and such won't be learned and will affect the way it runs. along with timing, cold starts, temp/accel enrich, etc..
I've been running an MSD Atomic EFI on a Mustang 302ci. for a few years now. After the inital setup and some tuning I haven't touched it. Starts right up, runs smooth hot or cold and actually gets decent mileage. They aren't just plug and play, they take some tuning. Most importantly they won't work well on an engine that has other problems.
Thanks, I got the msd atomic efi and it hasn’t ran since it’s been on the engine! Going back stock, thought it was what was advertised! Plug and Play! I think I figured out what they plugged! I think I got screwed on this easy wire, system!
I guess I’ll have to get on that forum, I have bought the wrong harness from PCI, it was a 6L80 and I need it for a 4L80 but I have a 2008 with the 58X controller which is way different than what you’re showing here and a separate transmission controller
Bought a cable was too long bought another 1 like 1 came with it done swap nether less never installed one what a pain wish done wright one in first place but hard to adjust s10 blazer had junk 2.8 like your videos motor looks nice 🙂
