Rebekah Bogard is an artist and professor living in Reno NV. She has received numerous awards including being named an “Emerging Artist” by both the National Council on Education for the Ceramic Arts and Ceramics Monthly Magazine. In addition she is a two-time recipient of the Nevada Fine Arts Council Fellowship, as well as receiving the “Best of Show” in several national art competitions. Her work has shown in several solo and group exhibitions nation-wide. Moreover, her work has been reviewed in publications such as Art in America, LA Times, Ceramics Monthly Magazine, Clay Times Magazine, and Artweek. To view her work, visit www.rebekahbogard.com/
This is where you will find videos on how I create my artwork. Topics included: How I engineer my sculptures to break-down into smaller sizes so that it is less fragile and easier to ship, how to install my artwork, how to create packing for shipment of my work, and other basic how-tos in regard to how I construct.
Excellent and well articulated, with proper terms and concepts. But that non-Newtonian usage is familiar to me from the hydrocarbon polymers (plastic), which has that kind of flow in the molten state. Sister!
Awsome video! Im planning to make a mold for some dice (6,8,10,12 and 20 sided), and wanted to ask from your experience Would it be possible to make it with dice that is not clay you think? What is the clay you use to make the mold? Would any type do or should i aim for a specific one? Thank you!
You can't time a cast . It depends on the weather, the dampness of the moulds and the viscosity of the slip. Also remove the scrap before you open the mould. One more thing PUT some overalls on.
I have my viscosity perfect but after 5 minutes it’s hard again so if I’m correct I need to keep adding deflocculant until it stays runny for 30/60 minutes?
Great information. Having said that, you mention a few times that sodium silicate evaporated with your water. I do not believe that is the case (or even possible), as sodium silicate has a MELTING point of around 1410 °C and a boiling point of 2355 °C. If you dissolve sodium silicate in water and let the water evaporate, the sodium silicate will stay behind.
I just started doing this, got a bunch of molds for free... Wasn't sure what to get so I picked up some of that "Perfect Cast" Poured it in a small x-mas Santa ornament, left it in for 40 mins (cuz that's what the instructions on the bag said) and it got stuck in the mold... I was finally able to get it out but it stuck to a couple small details of Santa's beard and broke them off :-( Was it the stuff I used? Or did I do something wrong?
I would just buy some pre-made cone 6 porcelain casting slip. You can get it at most ceramic warehouses and they often come in one-gallon batches. They also come in a variety of colors. Several white colors along with other colors. Good luck!
Great tutorial, I have been looking for a way to create perfect spheres for ages. Tried pinch pots but you are limited in size, Throwing them on the wheel is okay but they do tend to always look slightly off. Throwing two half hemisphere bowls and joining them, again just a little off. I'll give this technique a go. For my sphere shape (As I am going with this shape a lot) to hold it I get a pool noodle, cut it down to the smallest length I can curl back on itself and connect it with a very short dowel and contact adhesive. Works great for may sized spheres you need to hold without denting in the bottom. You always have it on hand then too.
What a great idea with the pool noodle! Thanks for sharing! Since you use the sphere often, I recommend making a slump mold of a ball, then you can really speed up the process by slumping your clay into the mold.
I really don't think the water has anything to do with it. It is probably due to the shape of the mold. Some molds trap air towards the top, so I sometimes add "vents."
So where did you get the bird from .....?? What if i want something that i don't 3:56 have a sample from .... can I create a sample to make this molds ??
I made the hummingbird out of clay, let it dry to leather hard, then I made a mold of it. If there is something I want to make multiples of, I make the piece out of clay first, let it get leather hard, then make a mold of it. Otherwise it would take me forever to make 25 hummingbirds by hand. After I slip cast them, I can assemble them in a variety of ways to make each one look different.
Omg, your video demonstration is the best I’ve seen so far. You’ve provided so much knowledge and easy step by step instructions, giving me the confidence to begin on my journey. Thank you so much!
Love you very details video with such a good information. I have a couple of question. The slip porcelain is the same as clay? Can clay be made into slip porcelain ( liquid to pour). Wondering as i would like something to pour but them add details later on. I read somewhere that slip porcelain need to be the same as the liquid so they can merge in the baking process. What brand do you recommend that offers both. Thank you so much in advance!.
Porcelain is a type of clay body that is white, pure, and high-fire. You may also turn this clay body into a casting slip. Both are very difficult to work with. I primarily work with a low-fire earthenware clay body as well as casting slip. I sometimes cast with a "mid-fire porcelain," which is challenging and difficult to work with. If you want to use a porcelain casting slip, I highly recommend you simply purchase pre-made slip, which is what I do. I order from Clay People and get the "Pearl" casting slip. You can buy it by the gallon. But can also buy it from most places. bigceramicstore.com/products/laguna-clay-cn4110g-oriental-pearl-porcelain-casting-slip-slip-cone-5
I have a question I have had a bag of slip stored for quite some time it's a fifty Lb bag and I lost my directions on how much chemical to mix it with can you help? I think there was 3 ingredients.
Yep. I'm sure it was Barium Carb, Sodium Silicate, and Soda Ash. When Ceramic Warehouses sell casting slip, they always send instructions. I would just go to one of those websites (such as Aardvark, Bailey, Laguna, etc.) and look it up. They always have PDF files on the instructions. Even if you don't know what kind of slip you have, I would just blindly follow the instructions as a starting point. It will get you in the ballpark and then you could simply adjust it accordingly.
Do you mix your clay body from powder? I'm trying to see if it's possible to take a ready made clay body like the kind they sell at ceramic studios, and then convert it to a slip?
Both ways work. If the clay is already mixed, I find it easiest to roll it out into slabs (or separate it into chunks), let it dry out, then add the water to slake for a day.
Thank you professor Bogard. This is by far the best presentation of HVLP spray glazing I've seen - and believe you me seen many demonstrations both on the internet and in person workshops.
What is the clay/plaster equivalent of Pam spray if I’m planning on making molds for large, thin, flat pieces and i want to minimize the risk of my original clay models breaking when I take them out of the plaster ?
I don't know about using Pam instead of Murphy Oil Soap. It might work. I'd test it first. The key is that is must be water soluble and not a petroleum product. Let me know how it works!
The water does not need to be boiled. Sometimes I dilute the Murphy Oil Soap, sometimes I don't. It only takes about 5 min to dry, depending on the humidity level of your environment. I find it is dry by the time I am done mixing my plaster. But I do live in the desert.
