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Climbing meta
Climbing meta
Climbing meta
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At Climbing meta our mission is to help take your climbing fitness to the next level, no matter what your starting point.

We focus on efficient training programs, using simple timers and keep things super easy.

Climbing meta provides rock climbers with free training routines and a simple online tracker that records your climbing training, tracks your progress and provides greater insight into your training data.

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Комментарии
@u4ia612
@u4ia612 2 месяца назад
Im a cell tower technician and ive been having this problem since i started recently, gonna have to try this for sure. Ill come back and let you guys know how if it helped Edit: i no longer have the pain, seems to work👍
@eetswa6859
@eetswa6859 3 месяца назад
Great video. I find holding Hex Dumbbells on their ends a good substitute for those who don't have access to elephant balls.
@tionblack
@tionblack 3 месяца назад
can we do 3x10 for both arms for tennis elbow and then can we do 3x 10 for golf elbow? will it be too much ?
@VangelisStavroulakis
@VangelisStavroulakis 3 месяца назад
Nice thanks 🙏🏻
@BottroperEistee
@BottroperEistee 7 месяцев назад
Great summary of all the Flexbar exercises for the elbow. And simply the best explanation of how to do them =)
@living4adrenaline
@living4adrenaline Год назад
This isn't a cure all, it's just one possible intervention. The problem at the elbow could be a lack of full ROM and rotation of the shoulder as well. Thank you for the video.
@jansveen
@jansveen Год назад
Definitely getting one or two of those. I got a chronic pain from climbing. Many years. It is not going away this time, so got to find some solution. I'll try this out, and hope it works. Are you continuing climbing/bouldering though?
@wiktor9195
@wiktor9195 2 года назад
how often do you do this excersises? once a day?
@marcooosization
@marcooosization 2 года назад
just to offer some hope, about 4 months into bouldering i got climbers elbow. at first i thought i was done for, as i also have a tendon injury on my right toe which plagued me for 4 years. i just kept climbing through it, mountain biking, push ups, pull ups, some kettle bell. eventually it just sorted it’s self. so you can try that route - don’t panic about it and it’ll just work its self out in my experience. took about 6 months, now i’m about V4-easier V5’s 1.5 years in and doing fine. it was painful but it wasn’t excruciating, so in my opinion, work through it. 34 y/o and not exceptionally strong by anymeans. i was pretty worried at the time, genuinely. climbing also pretty much sorted out the toe too by the way, which at first made me think i’d stand no chance of holding down bouldering as a hobby. in my experience these kind of injuries are like growing pains and the body re-balances it’s self naturally somehow if you require it to. that said some kind of tendonitis in my back is more stubborn, but generally back problems seem to affect many of us so i’m not surprised there.
@ARubiner
@ARubiner 2 года назад
Do you do multiple sets or just one through each exercise once? How many times/week do you reccomend?
@andrewglover1680
@andrewglover1680 2 года назад
Hi Shawn, I’ve been trying these exercises lately because my elbow has been really bothering me on tough climbs. I found a yellow bar in my house and it was the only color I have so I started to try these exercises. I’m really twisting it because it’s not a very strong bar. I’ve been doing these for about 2 weeks and I’m not really seeing any progress. Is it because there is not enough tension with that Color or am I doing the exercises wrong. Another question I have is when you finish the rep, do you undo the twist and start from scratch or do you just do the reverse of the exercise to get it into that twisted position and release again? Cheers,
@marshmallowmaster
@marshmallowmaster 2 года назад
Hey Andrew, I'm not Shawn but I hope I can help because I've been researching this a lot recently. The yellow bar is the lightest option out of the flexbars. I'm using the green which takes about15 lbs of force to bend, and the blue one in the video is about 25 lbs of force. To really help stretch the ligaments and build up the muscles around your tendons you'll probably want to go with higher resistance. I've also read from many sources that you should be fully resetting the bar after each rep to maintain the same amount of force and good form. I hope this helps.
@andrewglover1680
@andrewglover1680 2 года назад
@@marshmallowmaster thanks for the reply. I purchased a stronger bar because of my lack of progress about a month ago. I've been keeping up with his exercises and took a two-week break. have been climbing pain-free for a couple of months now so I highly recommend to anyone the exercises in this video.
@wiktor9195
@wiktor9195 2 года назад
@@andrewglover1680 i just bought a green one, hopefully it works
@earthnotgor1
@earthnotgor1 2 года назад
I've had quite an annoying case of climbers elbow for approximately 2 years and now I can say that I've managed to heal it to the point that it does not stop my climbing session anymore. I've worked on exercises with this TheraBand and doing the narrow pushups. I don't know which exercise helped more with the treatment, but I suggest doing it both. ✌️
@andreagrazianodibenedetto1464
@andreagrazianodibenedetto1464 3 года назад
Been suffering from climber's ellbow for about 5 years, until a friend told me to use the flexibar. It works wonders.
@CeeT-wg3hz
@CeeT-wg3hz Месяц назад
How often did you use it ? I just recently got a flexibar, but i still seem to feel the pain when I'm gripping
@andreagrazianodibenedetto1464
@andreagrazianodibenedetto1464 Месяц назад
@@CeeT-wg3hz I've been using it for years. Do a set of 15 reps 3 times a day. Furthermore, I recommend you rub Voltaren onto the hurting spot for 3 minutes both in the morning and in the evening, deep friction. Hope you get well soon, and feel free to tell how it worked.
@MrDiscreet100
@MrDiscreet100 3 года назад
Well done my favorite video on this subjects. Displays each variation well.
@milos7727
@milos7727 3 года назад
Can you train pinch everyday or is it better to train it less times in a week ?
@xcept7355
@xcept7355 2 года назад
Dude you can't train anything everyday few time a week max
@RuskiyStandardRaw
@RuskiyStandardRaw 3 года назад
So I've been dealing with medial elbow pain for a few months which has been very frustrating. Got some soft tissue work but it was confusing the physio why I still couldn't do a pull-up, yet chin ups were not a big problem. Finally was so curious about the muscles that I studied an anatomy chart and figured out the main culprit seems to be the teres pronator and now the "climbing" facet makes total sense. Anything overhead kicks it on. Just ordered this bar, will give it a shot. Thanks!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
Good luck Matt, hope it helps mate.
@BM-sz4ex
@BM-sz4ex Год назад
Did the bar help your climbers elbow?
@fitz3137
@fitz3137 3 года назад
No good b/c you can't get near enough tension on the affected hand to get a sufficiently sustained roll out for the eccentric (no matter how much you try to bend it toward you at the start). Just do a 5 lb dumbbell off your leg v this convoluted nonsense.
@timetraveltv4828
@timetraveltv4828 3 года назад
This works!!!! 2 weeks later and my elbow pain is gone and I am back to training as hard as I want, a must try if you have elbow issues like me.
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
Great to hear! good luck with your training.
@slavonics
@slavonics 3 года назад
What color to choose? I see you use blue which has the maximum resistance level.
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
I'd probably start with the green one and only move to blue if you really need to. The blue one can be quite hard to twist if you are really suffering from sore elbows.
@adogddog1697
@adogddog1697 3 года назад
Does this help with finger boarding??
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
I certainly hope so!
@philippemaltais731
@philippemaltais731 3 года назад
Thanks for the tips. I feel it is really useful
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
Glad it was helpful!
@invictuz4803
@invictuz4803 3 года назад
Looks like it's Theraband not Therabar mate. Anyway, excellent demonstration. Is it weird that I feel stress on the arm that's keeping still as the bar unwinds?
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
Theraband is the brand, they have a bunch of resistance products, this particular product is the Flexbar. Not strange that you are feeling stress on the other arm, the torque applied by twisting makes both arms work to keep it stabalised.
@albinking6800
@albinking6800 3 года назад
if you HANG around hahahahah love the vid mate!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
Thanks mate, appreciate it.
@JupiterLance
@JupiterLance 3 года назад
Can I use something else at him?
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
Sure, you can improvise the pinch block or the weight. containers of water, or even rocks will work if you can't get hold of metal plates.
@davidwright9940
@davidwright9940 3 года назад
Thank you for the video. Would you say these are good preventitive exercises for someone who climbs and wants to avoid elbow problems? Or should I look at other exercises for that?
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
Certainly wouldn't hurt!
@Shloopy420
@Shloopy420 4 года назад
Wicked helpful, thanks. I need to work on my overhead stability and compression strength!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
No problem! There is always something to work on, but rings will definitely help with your stability, good luck!
@akamaru576
@akamaru576 4 года назад
I hope this is working and not making it worse. The parts of my elbow hat were in pain from climbing feel sorry and a little tender after doing these exercises with the bar
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 4 года назад
The exercise can aggravate the area a little to begin with, but that should subside. Go slowly and don't do an excessive amount of exercises. It takes time to see improvements, doing too much can certainly make it worse.
@beatle497
@beatle497 4 года назад
THANK YOU :) got my theraband today, and I can already tell that this is the stretch that I needed. Hopefully this will help me nix my climbers elbow before it gets bad
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
It is definitely a satisfying stretch! small amounts regularly is the key, good luck.
@brunodm1573
@brunodm1573 2 года назад
So after 2 years, how is the elbow? :)
@carloshernandes3437
@carloshernandes3437 День назад
How is the elbow now?
@TheTJMcD
@TheTJMcD 5 лет назад
I'm not big on posting youtube comments, but I wanted to post here. I recently got back into climbing, and climbing elbow has always been a problem. I've been pretty aggressive in my climbing, usually every other day of the week, and have started out with bouldering. I've been using your tips with the therabar for about the past two weeks. I still have a slight aggravation, but it is pretty minimal considering how often I've been going by just jumping back in, pretty much beating up my body. I attribute a lot to this, as well as doing an antagonistic muscle work out once a week. Thank you for your suggestion here, it has helped a lot!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
Great to hear it has been helpful, keep crushing those boulders!
@chaseramos4865
@chaseramos4865 5 лет назад
I combine this with 3 sets of 1 arm pullups and front levers
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
Sounds like a solid workout! Front levers are a great exercise for climbing, especially when it comes to climbing on steep walls.
@prusikmallorca
@prusikmallorca 5 лет назад
Excellent job. The App is only for Apple, not Android App is available?
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
Nice of you to say! This is currently a web app, so it will run on any mobile device or desktop. Hope it's helpful!
@eztvlight1202
@eztvlight1202 5 лет назад
304 subs on a great channel.. Climbing is still a bit "underground" :,D
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
Thank you!
@kazhatfield1346
@kazhatfield1346 5 лет назад
Hey Shawn, after three full months of no pain, I’ve started the exercises which before aggravated it. Thus far, no aggravation. I was just wondering, as optimistic I am, are you able to do pull ups? You said compression seems to bother yours. Do you remember the exact cause of yours, like what you did to cause the pain? For me I think it was a specific bouldering problem, plus pull-ups. Anyways, I’ll keep you posted. So far, so good! Thanks again!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
A lot of pull-ups can cause problems, so take it easy on these. Try some ring rows instead and stretch your forearms well after each session.
@kazhatfield1346
@kazhatfield1346 5 лет назад
Awesome, thanks again. I've been about four days on with these exercises and so far so good, no pain. I keep getting nervous and massaging it but nothing. Psyched. Thank you! @@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
@@kazhatfield1346 Awesome! keep it up and you'll be back to pain-free crushing in no time.
@kazhatfield1346
@kazhatfield1346 5 лет назад
Thank you!!!
@kazhatfield1346
@kazhatfield1346 5 лет назад
Hi Shawn, I've been pain freeish since mid January but haven't climbed either. Did you start these excercises while pain free? For how long were you pain free when you started them? Did you start climbing easy routes at first? Did any of the climbing bother it? How long has it been since you've been pain free and what grade are you climbing now?Cheers, Kaz Hatfield
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
Hey Kaz, I didn't stop climbing but I did try to avoid compression-style moves as this tends to make it flare up. The other big thing I became conscious of was the way I was sleeping, often curling my wrists with bent elbows and clenched fists. It takes some work, but trying to keep your arms straight and relaxed while sleeping has been a huge help too! I haven't had elbow trouble for quite a while now, but can feel it a little with compression problems sometimes. As for grades, maybe up to around v10? hope this helps
@kazhatfield1346
@kazhatfield1346 5 лет назад
Awesome, thank you Shawn, I'm going o start the exercises and I'll get back to you hopefully here in a couple of months with results. Thanks again Shawn!
@BM-sz4ex
@BM-sz4ex Год назад
@@kazhatfield1346 any results from your use of the bar?
@tomclimber3125
@tomclimber3125 5 лет назад
such a great usefull video. Keep the channel going please :)
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
Thanks Tom! We have some more videos planned, hopefully not too far away.
@tomclimber3125
@tomclimber3125 5 лет назад
@@Climbingmeta Yeah that is awesome
@jrblackify
@jrblackify 5 лет назад
In order to hang 90% of your bodyweight with 1 arm, you need to be able to ADD 80% of your bodyweight for a 2 arm hang!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
The maths isn't quite that simple, but yes you need to be hanging a good amount of weight on 2-arms in order to kick-off 1-arm hangs. I'd say it's probably more like 60% body weight to get to that point for me, but everyone is different.
@mojmojgogoboys
@mojmojgogoboys 5 лет назад
Hey Shawn! Thanks for the video. Have you heard/do you know anything about finger extension exercises using a finger band to help climber's elbow?
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 3 года назад
Finger extensor exercises could assist climbers elbow and I wouldn't rule it out, but generally this tends to be more beneficial for tennis elbow.
@anthonybarison7865
@anthonybarison7865 5 лет назад
Min 0:30 "if this edge is bigger than 35 mm or 1.5 finger pads you should not been doing one arm hangs"..... Please, could you provide a reason for that? In the video you are showing a 2cm (ca) edge, thus I was wondering what you could recommend as logical progression to get to that stage.
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
Hey Anthony, One arm hangs are fairly extreme, so this is just a rough guide to see if your fingers and shoulders are up to it. If you can't hold a larger edge with one hand like this, then you probably aren't ready yet. A good progression would be to follow the maximum weight, minimum edge protocol which I've outlined in another video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nwDGgFkiYGE.html once you are adding around half your body weight and have done a few cycles you could try the one arms (very carefully), but you should get very good gains from the max / min approach for quite some time before you really need to change your approach. Hope this helps!
@anthonybarison7865
@anthonybarison7865 5 лет назад
Thanks for your reply :)
@TheMark2667
@TheMark2667 6 лет назад
you explain the motions very well, thanks!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 6 лет назад
Thanks Mark, hope it helps
@mobilityrp3888
@mobilityrp3888 6 лет назад
thank you so much for this, my elbow just keeps staying sore and tender, they have those things at the gym I climb at so I can get one there
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 6 лет назад
Hey Nathan, must be a very progressive gym, top work! Definitely give it a shot and let me know how you go.
@tombird2013
@tombird2013 6 лет назад
This seems promising, but... is there any way to achieve similar results without buying a Therabar?
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 6 лет назад
Hey Tom, if you follow the link to my website I provide an alternative that uses using weights to work the tendon eccentrically. Alternatively, you could try some acupressure using something as simple as a golf ball on a table and rolling your inner elbow over it to help release some of the tightness. Hope this helps.
@antoinegillot1531
@antoinegillot1531 5 лет назад
You can try doing it with a towel. I heard that works as well
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 5 лет назад
Yes you can and it does work to a degree. Twist the towel up and perform the exercise using the torque in the towel to add the desired resistance (it can be a little awkward though). I'm actually a big fan of using a roller for elbows these days - I'll try get a video up soon.
@neilkelman8261
@neilkelman8261 6 лет назад
Hell yeah, that pocket looks rough!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 6 лет назад
Thanks Neil, it does bite a bit! I could really only have 6 or so attempts in any session before it would start to break the skin - totally worth it though :P
@neilkelman8261
@neilkelman8261 6 лет назад
Climbing meta It's such a cool wall.
@vinicrusher
@vinicrusher 6 лет назад
HI Shawn, i love your video. It's a good tool to help with the climbers elbow. I was wondering, i'm a beginner in climbing. Do you recommend any exercice to warm up for a good climbing session? thanks
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 6 лет назад
Hey Vincent, glad you like the video! There are a lot of ways to warm up for climbing, but I tend to start with some jumping jacks to get the blood pumping, then some very easy hangs and pull-ups on a fingerboard if there is one available. After that, I'd move into some easy boulders and focus on movement and slowly increase the difficulty over 3-4 boulders in the space of 15-20 minutes. After that you should be ready to tackle something harder, good luck!
@vinicrusher
@vinicrusher 6 лет назад
Thanks a lot
@zachbest87
@zachbest87 7 лет назад
Hey Shawn! Thanks for the video. What have you found to be the most effective frequency for these exercises?
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 7 лет назад
Hey Zach, this depends on how bad your elbows are. If you are really struggling, then 2-3 times a day isn't a bad idea, at least until you get it under control. After that, once a day should be enough to maintain things. Hope this helps.
@zachbest87
@zachbest87 6 лет назад
Thanks for your reply, and yes this helps!
@YoTengoUnLCD
@YoTengoUnLCD Год назад
@@Climbingmeta hi Shawn. After 5 years, do you still use this method to fix your golfers elbow?
@AdventureRyan
@AdventureRyan 7 лет назад
Amazing stuff!
@Climbingmeta
@Climbingmeta 7 лет назад
Thanks mate ;)